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Old 10-02-2020, 05:09 AM   #21
wjg315
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I plan to do mine soon and I appreciate all this information.
 
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Old 10-03-2020, 07:07 AM   #22
ChuckS
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Fifth wheel is now on 7th year of use... Dexter 7K axles

Still running Dexter OEM inner and outer bearings ... I purchase my inner grease seals...double lip fro etrailer for about $16 for a set of 4

Always hand packed once a year with Red & Tacky.. EZ lube zerks never used..

Brakes are original Dexter with 38K miles on them

There is zero grease in the hub cavity on my hubs...is useless and waste of grease
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Old 08-13-2022, 05:41 PM   #23
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The thread is a little old, but still helpful for me. My '15 3611RL is at the house getting prepped for a trip up to Yellowstone from Texas. We had it in storage for about 2 years from 6/20 to 5/22 as we moved into the new house and took care of domestic stuff. On our May trip we blew out a tire, picked up a sheet metal screw in the other one on the same side and of course had a shredded Jwrap and fender. I'll spare the logistical details, but ultimately all 4 got replaced although under ~6,000 miles and 4 years old. Sitting tires kills 'em.

So, with fresh rubber all around (include F350) I decided it was prudent to do the bearings too. I've had them done once since 2015, but this time I wanted to do them myself so I could check the brakes. Including 2 trips into town for a 1 1/2" socket and for 4 grease seals & grease, I got 2 done today. The hardest part is just getting the tires on and off!!! They get heavier and heavier as I get older. I was glad to see that the previous packer didn't use the EZ lube either as the end caps had obviously been removed and are a bit banged up. The bearings look fine, no pitting and were full of grease. The inside walls of the bearing had some brown spots, but nothing extreme. Everything spins freely with no grinding or slop. Soaking in diesel, wiping, blowing dry, repeat... and got the bearings clean for their repacking. Hand packed diligently until grease squirted out the other end. Examined breaks (self adjusting) and some general clean up. Reassemble and done. It seems so odd to have just finger tight on that axle nut, but a check after the fact shows no play at all. The other two should get done tomorrow. Thank God for the hydraulic leveling system!

I don't want ANY issues on this month long trip; I just want to enjoy the ride!
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Old 08-13-2022, 06:02 PM   #24
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The nut doesn't really need to be too tight, but if memory serves, you should torque to 50 ft. Lbs. Then back off to the first slot that the pin will fit.
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:25 PM   #25
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Which way do you turn the self ajusters to tighen the braks between the front axel and the rear axel? I hurd it was wond way in the first and the opitite in the reat.

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Old 08-13-2022, 10:16 PM   #26
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You can use a torque wrench on axle nuts, but the torque value depends on if they are new bearings or used. That process is basically for seating in new bearings and races upon initial install. Roll your eyes as needed, but there are thousands of us old timers that have used water pump pliers and a flick of the wrist to tighten down axle nuts while rotating the wheel. Yes, sometimes we have to back it off just a smidge to get the cotter key or new style lock washer to line up, but that's life at the end of a wrench.

I think you turn the star wheel downwards from the backside of the backing plate to tighten.

Using two screwdrivers or spoons (one to hold the adjuster lever away from the star wheel) upwards from the backside of the backing plate to loosen. I have disk for several years, so faded memory sets in. Your front and rear theory is incorrect.
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Old 08-14-2022, 09:04 AM   #27
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I agree with dieselguy. There is no need to torque axle bearings to 50 pound feet. Snug it enough to take the play out is as tight as you need.
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Old 08-14-2022, 12:45 PM   #28
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My final point on the 50 ftlbs ... it's just torqued to that value to seat the new bearings ... DO NOT LEAVE THE SPINDLE NUT AT THAT TORQUE VALUE ... back it off and do the wrist flick or finger tight ... whatever floats your boat. If you were to leave the spindle nut at say 50 ftlbs ... I doubt if you'd get 15 - 20 miles down the road before you burnt up a wheel bearing.
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Old 08-14-2022, 01:21 PM   #29
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This is the link to the Dexter maintenance manual. https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area...ice_manual.pdf On page 48 is the start of the bearing service procedures and there is also a scan link on the bottom of page 48 that takes you to a Dexter video of the bearing maintenance. Also, 50 ft lbs is every time you pack the bearings to do the bearing adjustment, and the instructions tell you how to do that. I guess the link in the manual is no longer active, but this link will take you to the Dexter video.
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Old 08-14-2022, 03:43 PM   #30
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I just read the Dexter instructions. I guess two ol country boys got that one right. What you need is the nut snug without any slack or play in the bearings.
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Old 08-16-2022, 05:44 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
This is the link to the Dexter maintenance manual. https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area...ice_manual.pdf On page 48 is the start of the bearing service procedures and there is also a scan link on the bottom of page 48 that takes you to a Dexter video of the bearing maintenance. Also, 50 ft lbs is every time you pack the bearings to do the bearing adjustment, and the instructions tell you how to do that. I guess the link in the manual is no longer active, but this link will take you to the Dexter video.
Thanks, Bob. I knew I got that measurement from somewhere but I couldn't for the life of me remember where. I must have seen that video at some point.
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