12v system - Montana Owners Club

Armymech2012 · 10-26-2020, 07:21 AM

I have a 2006 Montana 3475rl. Over the weekend the round 50 amp plug decided to melt away. I reinstalled a new 4 prong plug since I had a 50 ft cord for it. But now none of my 12v stuff is coming on. The ceiling lights arent coming on at full strength, the fridge wont turn on even tho there is electricity going to the plug for it, and the furnace wont come on.

Anyone know anything please help?

jimcol · 10-26-2020, 07:46 AM

Check the 120volt breaker for your converter. If the breaker for the converter is good check the output of your converter. Should see 12+volts at your battery.

BB_TX · 10-26-2020, 08:00 AM

Do you have 120 vac power to the trailer?

sourdough · 10-26-2020, 10:49 AM

My first thought is WHY did your 50A plug melt?? That doesn't "just happen". The next thought would be why didn't the breaker feeding it trip? I would want to know those before trying to figure out why my battery power is weak.

After you resolve that (I'm worried just putting a new plug on it just leaves the problem existing) maybe the converter fried and it isn't charging the batteries any longer (check the output). Maybe the batteries are dead. How old are the batteries and what kind of mtce. do you do on them?

Armymech2012 · 10-26-2020, 11:23 AM

So thinking why that plug melted was because it wasnt tight to the prongs. And living in the middle of kansas theres a lot of wind. Another guy said that arcing could have happened. I took the batteries off because I wasnt getting 12v to the converter and took them in to be tested. One has already came back as bad. Waiting on the other one.

sourdough · 10-26-2020, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armymech2012

So thinking why that plug melted was because it wasnt tight to the prongs. And living in the middle of kansas theres a lot of wind. Another guy said that arcing could have happened. I took the batteries off because I wasnt getting 12v to the converter and took them in to be tested. One has already came back as bad. Waiting on the other one.

If it got hot enough to melt the plug and/or there was arcing, you need to look inside the receptacle. Odds are the connectors inside have been damaged and it needs to be replaced as well. Leaving them pitted, burned etc. only causes more resistance arcing and heat.

As far as batteries, if one is already testing as bad it doesn't really matter what the other one tests as far as the RV goes. You need 2 new batteries; same kind, same size etc. You could use the other one as a spare "something" but not for the RV if it tests good.

**AZ Traveler** · 10-26-2020, 11:37 AM

The batteries should always be replaced together. If one is bad replace both of them. Still need to make sure your converter is working properly.

jimcol · 10-26-2020, 11:39 AM

You don't get 12volts to the converter. You get 12volts out of the converter. If you are not real comfortable with the basic's of electricity you probably should get someone trained on site. It might save your trailer.

BB_TX · 10-26-2020, 11:49 AM

A melted connector is usually due to a loose or poor wire connection in the connector itself, or the receptacle it is plugged into. If the connector gets hot enough to melt, then the receptacle probably needs replacing also or it may do it again.

DutchmenSport · 10-26-2020, 04:14 PM

Maybe after the fact, but to prevent the arching on your plugs, plug in your camper first to the power cord. Plug in the power cord to the power source pedestal (shore power). THEN flip the breaker at the shore power source.

If you connect and disconnect the power cord while it has power, the arching that occurs will pit-up your connection points (pins) real fast. Always connect and disconnect with the breaker switched flipped off.

When disconnecting, flip the breaker at the power source first. Then unhook all the wire connections.

sourdough · 10-26-2020, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DutchmenSport

Maybe after the fact, but to prevent the arching on your plugs, plug in your camper first to the power cord. Plug in the power cord to the power source pedestal (shore power). THEN flip the breaker at the shore power source.

If you connect and disconnect the power cord while it has power, the arching that occurs will pit-up your connection points (pins) real fast. Always connect and disconnect with the breaker switched flipped off.

When disconnecting, flip the breaker at the power source first. Then unhook all the wire connections.

You are absolutely correct. In the OPs situation the arcing or heat causing issue apparently happened over time and not the initial plug in. That resistance heating, if that is what it was, could be caused by repeated damage to the conductors in the plug/receptacle but I doubt that plugging in while the receptacle was charged caused the melting of the plug at that moment - but excellent points as to the process to connect the cables, plugs etc.

Armymech2012 · 10-26-2020, 05:52 PM

So is it common to have 2 12 v batteries?

Also tested the wiring for the fridge and it all fried and it fried my washer and dry. I have the new plug and different cord for my rv. And just went with a regular residential fridge.

The old plug was definitely loose. I'm never gonna have the round 50 amp plug again if I can help it.

sourdough · 10-26-2020, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armymech2012

So is it common to have 2 12 v batteries?

Also tested the wiring for the fridge and it all fried and it fried my washer and dry. I have the new plug and different cord for my rv. And just went with a regular residential fridge.

The old plug was definitely loose. I'm never gonna have the round 50 amp plug again if I can help it.

You have a much bigger problem than a "loose connector" causing arcing at the plug as I alluded to in an earlier post.

Fried wiring to the appliances and their loss is FAR more than heat from resistance. Do you have an EMS and use it? Did you have any electrical anomalies? Hope you have some electrical experience to trouble shoot this but if you don't have an EMS almost sounds like a shot of power got to you.

Armymech2012 · 10-26-2020, 07:39 PM

Okay what is an EMS? And no we didnt have anything crazy happen before we lost power.

sourdough · 10-26-2020, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armymech2012

Okay what is an EMS? And no we didnt have anything crazy happen before we lost power.

An "EMS" is a device that monitors incoming power, low voltage, high voltage and any other anomalies that might ruin your RV...or your lives. Required equipment to own an RV IMO. If you have no protection from power "issues" of which there zillions in an RV park, there is no way to know what "fried" your trailer wiring...but it wasn't a bad plug.

twindman · 10-26-2020, 07:42 PM

This is a far out question - Are you parked at home and perhaps plugged into a clothes dryer plug. I think they look the same, but I may be wrong. Anyway the dryer is 240V. Just a wild thought.

BB_TX · 10-26-2020, 08:13 PM

I agree with the above. What ever burned your fridge and washer/dryer and melted your connector was not due to a loose connector. You’ve got something serious going on there. If you are not well versed in 120/240 vac troubleshooting you need to call in a qualified RV electrician. Even not all electricians familiar with home wiring understand RV wiring even though it is very similar.

Armymech2012 · 10-27-2020, 08:14 AM

One of the guys here in the park with me was an electrician before he retired. He looked at the Converter and everything was fine there.

Another question would be why do I have 2 12 v batteries in here? Is this a 24v system?

Tom N OH · 10-27-2020, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armymech2012

One of the guys here in the park with me was an electrician before he retired. He looked at the Converter and everything was fine there.

Another question would be why do I have 2 12 v batteries in here? Is this a 24v system?

No. It is a 12v system. The batteries SHOULD be wired in parallel. + to +, - to -

jimcol · 10-27-2020, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armymech2012

One of the guys here in the park with me was an electrician before he retired. He looked at the Converter and everything was fine there.

Another question would be why do I have 2 12 v batteries in here? Is this a 24v system?

You have two batteries so you can run longer when not hooked to shore power. Many have made that modification. I never did as we hardly ever use the unit where we don't have at least 30 amp service. If your RV lifestyle is the same as ours you won't need two batteries either. Run them until they are worn out then retreat to a one battery set up.

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