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Old 06-25-2024, 10:57 AM   #1
bshgto
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mini split

Got tired of the hassles with the roof mount A/C`s the ridiculous noise, not cooling the camper in the sun, the need for a third a/c, and the noise with that. The wife saying "Don`t you even think about it sport I`m to hot" So I put in an 18,000 btu Mini-split A/C. Took a trip down to mid Florida to the Kenndy Space Center> Full sun, 96 degrees out side with the heavy humidity at 12 o'clock it was 69 degrees in the camper and you can`t hear the unit running, Never going back to the roof units. Now the wife`s happy and so am I.........
 
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Old 06-25-2024, 11:06 AM   #2
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How about an install write up with pictures and parts list?
I think the industry is going to go this way in a few years. I believe the power consumption is less than a rooftop model too. Ideal for boondocking.
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Old 06-25-2024, 11:41 AM   #3
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How about an install write up with pictures and parts list?
I think the industry is going to go this way in a few years. I believe the power consumption is less than a rooftop model too. Ideal for boondocking.
A few things specific to my camper but the kits come with everything you need to do it yourself if you can use a screwdriver. Other things like a vacuum pump can be had at Harbor Frieght cheap.

https://www.montanaowners.com/forums....php?p=1280164
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Electric Brakes ..... Disk Brakes, it`s the only way
F350 Ford Dually 4:10`s w/bags (payload 5595 lbs) Sumo Springs 63 gal aux tank
Reese Goosebox Mor/Ryde SRE 4000 X Factors Monroe shocks.... real smooth ride
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Old 07-07-2024, 01:07 PM   #4
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Who makes a 18000 btu 120volts system
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Old 07-07-2024, 07:35 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=Danhovatter;1294818]Who makes a 18000 btu 120volts system[/QUOTE

No one that I know of. There might be one out there but I doubt it would come as a complete kit for the DIY`er. Mine is 240 volt, easily achievable by using the old roof a/c circuit and the washer circuit. I never stay in a campground that does not have 50 amp service and my generator has a 240-volt side to it so I can keep the camper cool going down the road to the next stop. I found it very irritating arriving at a campground and having hours to wait for the roof units to cool the camper down. In this heat we are having that`s what it would take.
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Electric Brakes ..... Disk Brakes, it`s the only way
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Old 07-07-2024, 08:33 PM   #6
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There are a bunch of ways to add mini splits to campers. I’m wondering when the industry will switch. Youtube has a bunch of videos of people adding them to their campers. I believe New Horizens has them as an option for their campers
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Old 07-08-2024, 01:24 PM   #7
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Who makes a 18000 btu 120volts system
I doubt you will need 18000 BTU in your camper. We heat the bottom of our home with 19000 in 5 degree weather. They are a lot more efficient than the ones in your camper now. You will get the full rated BTU out of them not a low percentage. I would suspect 12000 is all you need. I know these campers arenít insulated very well no matter what Montana says.
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Old 07-08-2024, 03:45 PM   #8
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Mitsubishi and LG both make 120 volt variable speed models in the 12-13 KBTU size. The variable speed models always start on low speed and ramp up, no need for soft starts. Both of these brands are at the top of the mini-split food chain.
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Old 07-08-2024, 07:08 PM   #9
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no 3rd a/c..... Mini split

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I doubt you will need 18000 BTU in your camper. We heat the bottom of our home with 19000 in 5 degree weather. They are a lot more efficient than the ones in your camper now. You will get the full rated BTU out of them not a low percentage. I would suspect 12000 is all you need. I know these campers arenít insulated very well no matter what Montana says.
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My initial installation was with a 12,000 btu 120 volt. I installed the head unit above the fireplace/Tv in the alcove above them> It wasn`t enough to cool 40 feet of camper with the air blowing into the bedroom, there isn`t as much air volume, just wasn`t enough with the camper in the sun. I returned it on Amazon. A 12,000 BTU might work for a 30 to 35-footer with the roof units running but that defeats the purpose of the mini splits super quiet operation which was one of the reasons to put this thing in. I really could not hear the TV in the bedroom with the roof unit running in the bedroom. The 18,000 btu 240 volt system is far more energy efficient and draws fewer amps per leg. It does the job.
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Electric Brakes ..... Disk Brakes, it`s the only way
F350 Ford Dually 4:10`s w/bags (payload 5595 lbs) Sumo Springs 63 gal aux tank
Reese Goosebox Mor/Ryde SRE 4000 X Factors Monroe shocks.... real smooth ride
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Old 07-09-2024, 01:54 PM   #10
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Furrion Chill Cube A/C is 18,000 BTU. 120V. It is new on the market. I am seriously considering this for a replacement of my Dometic. Could be worth checking out.
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Old 07-09-2024, 02:36 PM   #11
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Furrion Chill Cube A/C is 18,000 BTU. 120V. It is new on the market. I am seriously considering this for a replacement of my Dometic. Could be worth checking out.

Still no word when it will be available for purchase. Its only OEM as of right now.
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Old 07-09-2024, 04:30 PM   #12
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Furrion Chill Cube A/C is 18,000 BTU. 120V. It is new on the market. I am seriously considering this for a replacement of my Dometic. Could be worth checking out.

These have my attention as well. They use LG variable speed compressors; LG makes some of the best variable speed mini-splits on the market. They know what they're doing. They are also using brushless evap and condenser fan motors which should help with sound levels. The variable speeds never turn completely off, just throttle down to a very low speed that helps a lot with humidity control. They should be very friendly using with gens and solar.

I can't find anything saying they are available in heat pump models. Apparently they are for non ducted installations only. That's probably a good thing since they can guarantee the air flow when not connected to the RV duct systems.
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Old 07-09-2024, 06:37 PM   #13
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The outside unit will not run all the time and when it is on I will only supply what the inside unit or units calls for. In the winter I have seen temperatures from the air handler from 80 degrees to 126 degrees depending on the outside temperature. The air handler inside unit runs all the time. If no heat or cooling is needed it will be sniffing the air, just barely running. It hast to the thermostat is in it. It will move enough air to keep your camper or in my case our home at temperature. You can set the fan to run at a set speed. Our living room unit is set to run the maximum speed. It’s a big room with a 16 foot vaulted ceiling. As far as I know they all have varyible rate DC compressors.
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Old 07-09-2024, 07:03 PM   #14
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I can't find anything saying they are available in heat pump models. Apparently they are for non ducted installations only. That's probably a good thing since they can guarantee the air flow when not connected to the RV duct systems.
To hook a modern heat pump to the ductwork in a camper would never work. The air flow is critical to the efficiency and life of the unit and must be carefully calibrated. Two friends who install heat pumps are always showing me examples of units that werenít properly installed. This week they told me about a heat pump that wasnít installed properly. The compressor lasted 5 years. It worked itself to death and the homeowner wonted to install a new unit without fixing the duct work.
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Old 07-09-2024, 07:20 PM   #15
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You should watch AZ Expert video on the Furrion. Here is the third video about them and their problems. https://youtu.be/SL3I4zdGZm0?si=tBhMt0nzeluTvW5h
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Old 07-09-2024, 08:12 PM   #16
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You should watch AZ Expert video on the Furrion. Here is the third video about them and their problems. https://youtu.be/SL3I4zdGZm0?si=tBhMt0nzeluTvW5h
The Chill Cube is the new unit. AZ expert has never seen this one.
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Old 07-10-2024, 09:41 AM   #17
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To hook a modern heat pump to the ductwork in a camper would never work. The air flow is critical to the efficiency and life of the unit and must be carefully calibrated. Two friends who install heat pumps are always showing me examples of units that werenít properly installed. This week they told me about a heat pump that wasnít installed properly. The compressor lasted 5 years. It worked itself to death and the homeowner wonted to install a new unit without fixing the duct work.
Lynwood
It's estimated that >60% of homes with forced air heating/cooling have inadequate ducting systems. The contractors want to sell higher efficiency units as a fix and they will end up failing too. The move to ECM blower motors in the air handlers will hide a multitude of sins in the duct system, but it's still wrong.

Both Coleman and Dometic make an RV heat pump, both ducted and non ducted. The only difference between an air conditioner and a heat pump is a reversing valve and minor differences in the controls. It's not nearly as big a deal as techs like to make you believe.

Warm air is easier to move than cool air, it's lighter. On a gas or oil furnace the blower is adjusted much lower than it is for AC. Since a heat pump is just a reversal of the refrigeration circuit, it requires the same air flow as it does in cooling mode.

As I stated, I believe one reason Furrion isn't making a ducted unit is so they are confident the airflow is as designed, not dependent on someone else's inefficient duct system. I like that they are directing the supply and return in the same axis, this is different than Coleman and Dometic.
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Old 07-11-2024, 07:38 AM   #18
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BTBRV has done install and testing. He has several videos.
https://www.youtube.com/@BigTruckBig...20Chill%20Cube

Looks very promising. And YES a heat pump.
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Old 07-12-2024, 05:30 PM   #19
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I have a Powerboost Ford truck. It’s a hybrid with 7200 watts of on board power. I finally got it hooked up to my home. I checked to see how much power I would be using if we had a power outage. I had 10 LED lights on and a 5 foot ceiling fan and my 19000 BTU mini split. They were putting 700 watts on one leg and 560 on the other 120 volt leg. Then I checked my 12000 BTU camper AC it was pulling 1400 watts with nothing else on in the camper.
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