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Old 09-01-2019, 11:11 AM   #1
kozzy
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Blank Tank Valve

My black tank dump valve is sticking very badly I have to sit there with both hands sometimes to pull it out. Then, when I push it back in, I have to slam it and bang the handle in to get the valve ot close all the way. I believe this is just the handle and/or cable, and the valve at the tank is working fine. I have tried WD-40 to loosen it up, that works for about week. Any one have the same experience, and does anyone know if the handle and cable assembly can be replaced? My unit is 4 years old, so I dont mind doing a little replacement work for worn out parts. This is a PITA though. I have the camping world extended warranty, which is good sam Should I just take it in perhaps and let them deal with it?
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Old 09-01-2019, 11:46 AM   #2
rohrmann
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Ours was sticking like that some years ago, until I started using the Thetford valve lube that you add to the tank. I did the big doses a couple of times to start with and the valve did loosen up, and now, when I drain the tank, I add my treatment, a cap full of liquid Calgon and four ounces of the valve lube and the valve opens and closes very easy. I could tell that the cable was not the problem with ours.
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Old 09-01-2019, 02:31 PM   #3
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Good info Rorrman. We have been lucky with ours so far but being full timers and not moving I sure don't want to take our unit to a dealer for anything. I don't waste our money on the warranty either as that usually requires a trip to a dealer as well. Fortunately I am fairly handy so I don't think there is anything on one of these rigs I couldn't fix myself.
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Old 09-01-2019, 07:11 PM   #4
kozzy
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good info, but I don't think it is my valve, I am pretty sure it is the handle and cable assembly. The valve appears to be working fine.
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:22 PM   #5
Leftie Canuk
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Black Tank Valve

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Originally Posted by kozzy View Post
good info, but I don't think it is my valve, I am pretty sure it is the handle and cable assembly. The valve appears to be working fine.
My experience with cable-operated valves on the Monty and SOB led me to go to an electric valve for the black tank. So far, so good. It was not that difficult and required no cutting or gluing, just some choice words to get the replacement valve slipped into place. Eliminating the cable portion of the valve operation was the key objective in the project. Just my humble opinion.
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Old 09-01-2019, 09:02 PM   #6
kozzy
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Do you have a link for what you got? that sounds like a great idea, and a nice fall/spring project for me while My camper is not getting used.
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Old 09-02-2019, 11:43 AM   #7
beeje
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The valves the keystone uses are Bristle valves and are junk. Replace all the valves with Valterra valves and cables and your issues will disappear.
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Old 09-02-2019, 12:11 PM   #8
kozzy
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Is there a way just to replace the cables? I think the valve itself is fine.
Its only the black tank valve and cable, the other 2 gray cables/valves work fine.

I have the good sam ESP . Part of me just wants to take it to CW and pay the 50 bucks.
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Old 09-02-2019, 12:27 PM   #9
Leftie Canuk
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Black Tank Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by kozzy View Post
Do you have a link for what you got? that sounds like a great idea, and a nice fall/spring project for me while My camper is not getting used.
Hi,
I am forwarding the product information instead of the link to Amazon Canada, as I suspect you will want to order it from Amazon US or another
us source.
Valterra E1003VP EZ Valve 3" Electric Waste Valve System

Good luck, and enjoy the ease of pushing a button to do the nasty black tank job !

Eric
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:05 PM   #10
kozzy
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Thanks Eric,

Do you know will I need any extra pieces or can I just buy this kit and do the swap?
Thanks again.
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:13 PM   #11
mazboy
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you have the warranty just get it in.
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:47 PM   #12
ejerni
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Not so much a reply. When we empty our black tank on our 3791RD, nothing else is coming out. When we get to our next place and go to put the hose on, there is a lot of liquid coming out. Why does that happen?
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Old 09-03-2019, 09:34 AM   #13
Leftie Canuk
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Smile Black Tank Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by kozzy View Post
Thanks Eric,

Do you know will I need any extra pieces or can I just buy this kit and do the swap?
Thanks again.
Ed, I don't recall needing any other pieces except some extra wire because their supplied harness is too short, and a fuse holder because I connected directly to the battery area without going through the DC side of the electrical panel. My convenience center is close to the battery area, so that made wiring easier. A few zip ties to keep things tidy, some solderless connectors for the wiring, and a little black Gorilla tape to seal up the Chloroplast underbelly where it gets cut into a flap to access the valve if it ever fails to operate. You may need to replace some or all of the fasteners keeping the underbelly material in place, as they tend to be rusty and tough to remove. I went all stainless on mine, to avoid future issues. Prep-wise, be sure the tank is empty, ensure the rig is stabilized before crawling under, and remove the underbelly (Chloroplast) to have a look and plan the wiring routing. It's not a difficult job, sometimes awkward to work at the outlet area of the black tank, but actually easier than I imagined. Go for it - it's worth it !
Eric on the Left Coast
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Old 09-03-2019, 02:10 PM   #14
jcurtis934
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And it is much easier to replace valves if you cut the outlet pipe side and use a no hub rubber coupling to put the pipe back together. I would also say to put the monte nose low so nothing left in the tank can flow out towards the valve and pipes.
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Old 09-03-2019, 02:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kozzy View Post
My black tank dump valve is sticking very badly I have to sit there with both hands sometimes to pull it out. Then, when I push it back in, I have to slam it and bang the handle in to get the valve ot close all the way. I believe this is just the handle and/or cable, and the valve at the tank is working fine. I have tried WD-40 to loosen it up, that works for about week. Any one have the same experience, and does anyone know if the handle and cable assembly can be replaced? My unit is 4 years old, so I dont mind doing a little replacement work for worn out parts. This is a PITA though. I have the camping world extended warranty, which is good sam Should I just take it in perhaps and let them deal with it?
I've helped several people with units experiencing the same issue as you. Instead of WD40 try using some oil even if it is just 3in1. I'm sure you will find it to be a more permanent fix especially since the WD helps for a short period of time. Lot easier then changing valves. Drip a few drops between the sheath and the wire then exercise the hell out of it before adding a few more drops and repeating.
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Old 09-08-2019, 05:32 PM   #16
hosssmith
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beeje said:
"The valves the keystone uses are Bristle valves and are junk. Replace all the valves with Valterra valves and cables and your issues will disappear."

That is a fact! My repairman did that on my black tank and it is basically a two finger operation whereas the grey tank valve is a heave ho. I'm just looking for an excuse to replace it to.
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Old 09-08-2019, 06:14 PM   #17
AndrewStep3
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WD40 is not really a lubricant, it has a drying agent in it so it won’t last long. For rusted hinges and parts try PB Blaster, it works a lot better but the tank lube that was mentioned earlier is your best bet.
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Old 09-08-2019, 07:04 PM   #18
bobbaar
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lubricant

For all you do it yourselfers that need something better than WD-40, PB Blaster or anything else on the market for rusty parts or anything that sticks try Automatic transmission fluid and acetone in equal parts. As Paw Paw on Doin it Cheap Youtube channel says there's nothing that works better. It is truly a miracle juice. Try it. You won't be disappointed.
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Old 09-08-2019, 07:27 PM   #19
mazboy
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you have a warranty use it. that is what it is for.
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Old 09-08-2019, 07:49 PM   #20
kozzy
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yeah, i know I have the warranty, but they will just replace with the same valve. I bought the electric valve, ill be installing next week and be done with it.
I can easily get to the valve. plus my unit is at my seasonal site, it will cost be 70 in fuel to bring it to CW, plus the 50 deductible. that's about the same I paid for the new valve, so its really only costing me time, and im pretty handy so I dont mind doing the work and making it better. Never thought of the PB blaster, have some on the shelf in my garage...WD40 was in my truck
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