Has anyone found and used a good replacement for the crimp on hydraulic fittings on the level up system. Mine are leaking and tightening is not working and you don't want to overtighten. I was wondering if a reusable fitting like the Eaton I found at Grainger (see attached) would work.
The first pic is on a front jack (it should be rotated 90 degrees clockwise) and the second is the midship jack on driver side.
I have used similar fittings on my oil bypass filter lines on my truck as well as hydraulic applications.
I really don't want to use the same leaky Lippert fittings and get a mobile fork lift repair involved. I preferer solutions that I can do myself for reasons of cost, convenience and quality control.
__________________ 2011 RAM / airbags / Anderson Ult. hitch / 2017 Montana 3721RL/Disc brakes, oil-bath Timkin bearings, shocks, X-factor/Tank-less water heater and built in water softener/Barker auto drain valves/4x100 amp Battle born/Go-power 3000 whole rig inverter/all LED running lights and a lot more.
Wow, nobody has an opinion.
I just spoke with a tech at Lippert and was informed that the 1/4" ID X 1/2" OD Gates reusable fitting should work. The system is rated at 3000PSI and the gates fittings are rated at 5300psi with their G1 hose. I have ordered a length of hose from Lippert and the fittings from Amazon as well as a coupler (male to male) and plan to make a short 1' section to put in line between the jack and line to test it. I am confident it will hold however I want to be 100% sure before I cut the leaking end off. I will post results when I have time to make the repair. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
__________________ 2011 RAM / airbags / Anderson Ult. hitch / 2017 Montana 3721RL/Disc brakes, oil-bath Timkin bearings, shocks, X-factor/Tank-less water heater and built in water softener/Barker auto drain valves/4x100 amp Battle born/Go-power 3000 whole rig inverter/all LED running lights and a lot more.
Sounds like you've already decided on what you are comfortable with. I've seldom seen over 1800 - 2200 PSI on our hydraulic systems unless you just deadhead the cylinders till the pump relief check opens. Yes the two piece fittings will work pressure wise on our systems as long as the hose and fitting are compatible. I've carried a couple of the two piece fittings around for over 18 years, but never had to use either. If there was enough length, I'd have just cut the failed crimp off and had a new one crimped on by a mobile outfit. A properly prepared hose and proper use of the crimper makes a very dependable connection. I used to work in a large airplane manufacturing plant. We had hundreds and hundreds of crimped hydraulic lines on the machines with an extremely low number of failed crimps ... burst hoses due to constant flexing of actuators ... another story.
On a side note ... check the two sealing surfaces of the fittings themselves. A piece of dirt or any small burr will cause a seep. Any sealant on the flare is unnecessary and bad practice. Make sure your fiver is hooked to the truck before removing any lines.
The Gates reusable JIC 37 fitting will work just fine IF then end of the OEM Lippert hose is cut nice and clean...
I've just repaired a Lippert Extend Non conductive OEM orange line on one of my interconnect lines running from manifold to mid Lt leveler leg...
Cycled the levelers 10 times with no leakage at fitting observed....
Much less costly repair using this compared to pulling out the leaking line and getting a new one made and installing...
and Yes.. I just replaced a 28 foot long line to one of my Hydraulic slide out cylinders and had I had this fitting the repair would have taken me 15 minutes and not cost $125 for a new line and fittings not to mention trying to snake the new line up inside the coroplast.
The Gates reusable JIC 37 fitting will work just fine IF then end of the OEM Lippert hose is cut nice and clean...
I've just repaired a Lippert Extend Non conductive OEM orange line on one of my interconnect lines running from manifold to mid Lt leveler leg...
Cycled the levelers 10 times with no leakage at fitting observed....
Much less costly repair using this compared to pulling out the leaking line and getting a new one made and installing...
and Yes.. I just replaced a 28 foot long line to one of my Hydraulic slide out cylinders and had I had this fitting the repair would have taken me 15 minutes and not cost $125 for a new line and fittings not to mention trying to snake the new line up inside the coroplast.
Thats great to hear, I have 6 fittings I will be replacing. It's always nice to know someone has had success with a repair before you dive in.
__________________ 2011 RAM / airbags / Anderson Ult. hitch / 2017 Montana 3721RL/Disc brakes, oil-bath Timkin bearings, shocks, X-factor/Tank-less water heater and built in water softener/Barker auto drain valves/4x100 amp Battle born/Go-power 3000 whole rig inverter/all LED running lights and a lot more.
I just ordered some of these.
My concern is that the OD of the hose is 7/16" as opposed to 1/2" but I'll be seeing if they work later this week and will post an update.
More to come.
Rich
By reading your intro post, I'd guess you're not new to wrench spinning. I'll frame a few sentences.
"I really don't want to use the same leaky Lippert fittings and get a mobile fork lift repair involved. I preferer solutions that I can do myself for reasons of cost, convenience and quality control."
There's nothing wrong with the 2 piece threaded fittings as long as you use them with a compatible hose. ChuckS seems to have had success so far. The outer half has spiral threads that grip the OD of the hose ... the inner half screws into the ID of the hose and further expands the OD of the hose into the spirals to make a leakproof connection. I hope the difference in OD of your hose and what the callout is on the fittings is not an issue down the road for you. This to me grinds against your want of quality control.
In my neck of the woods, you can roll up to about any JD, Cat, or Case IH dealership, or some Tractor Supply's and have a new crimp fitting installed right out in the parking lot. Your location may vary. Yeah I know you want to do it with you own two hands, but fittings and hoses work best when matched. I also hope you honestly have 6 leaking fittings and not just 2 with a bad taste in your mouth about crimped fittings.
You might draw a line with a magic marker at the end of the outer half and monitor it over time to see if the hose is walking out of the connection.
I went to the Lippert website and ordered a 2 foot section of hose to test fit. https://store.lci1.com/2200-psi-hydr...ed-248653.html
The description on Lippert says 1/4 ID and 1/2 OD, I did not actually take my micrometer and measure i assume the website description is accurate.
I actually have 3 leaking in front bay, 2 on the front jacks (black on both sides), and 5 between the back 4 jacks (at least 1 on every jack). I only bought 6 to get started.
Crimps are great if done correctly with quality fittings. In the photo of one of the manifold fittings that's leaking the fluid is coming out of the crimp and running downhill as fluids do. One day soonish I want to run all new line with Gates hoses and fittings at witch time I will be able to reuse all of these fittings.
I did call Lipper and they to me no body had ever asked them before about these fittings but he said they should work fine. I suggested that they look into a reusable fitting option for their hoses so these repairs, especially when on the road, would be easier for the consumer.
If it ever stops raining here I will get these changed out and report back.
Gotta get the Monty ready for our 6 week road trip starting in a few weeks.
__________________ 2011 RAM / airbags / Anderson Ult. hitch / 2017 Montana 3721RL/Disc brakes, oil-bath Timkin bearings, shocks, X-factor/Tank-less water heater and built in water softener/Barker auto drain valves/4x100 amp Battle born/Go-power 3000 whole rig inverter/all LED running lights and a lot more.
I just ordered some of these.
My concern is that the OD of the hose is 7/16" as opposed to 1/2" but I'll be seeing if they work later this week and will post an update.
More to come.
Rich
They work (so far)
Tip on using these:
Make sure that the hose is fully seated before you install the center expander. I used a small amount of grease on the outside of the hose and the expander. (Like a YouTube video that I saw prior to my work)
I also changed out the hydraulic fluid while I was at it and there is a noticeable difference in the smoothness of my hydraulic system operation. Fiver is five years old so it was probably time. Total cost for the endeavor was about $90 and I'm thinking well worth it.
I'll follow up if'n anything goes south.
We have a hose that has blistered on the outside and is leaking. I measured it out and took a picture and then went to a hydraulic hose place and had a new hose and fittings made up for $15.00. The new hose is rated at a much higher psi.
My test hose .. orange extend line with field replaceable fitting has been installed for three weeks now.. no issues.. while I prefer a new hose … 2 wire 9/16 outside diameter hose I now carry an old orange extend line that is 26 feet long with crimp on fitting on one end and screw on field fitting on other end. I can replace any line that might leak while in the road with this one and not be stuck somewhere
They work (so far)
Tip on using these:
Make sure that the hose is fully seated before you install the center expander. I used a small amount of grease on the outside of the hose and the expander. (Like a YouTube video that I saw prior to my work)
I also changed out the hydraulic fluid while I was at it and there is a noticeable difference in the smoothness of my hydraulic system operation. Fiver is five years old so it was probably time. Total cost for the endeavor was about $90 and I'm thinking well worth it.
I'll follow up if'n anything goes south.
I got most of mine done, waiting on 1 fitting to get here.
I did have an issue with 1 of the first 4 I put on, I am guessing I didn't get the hose in far enough before I installed the threaded male end. After some trial and error I got it to work. I was able to tell when I had a tight fit by how hard it was to get the male end started in the threads. I ended up starting the female end on hose then inserting a long philips head screwdriver (fit snug in the 1/4" ID hose) into the hose then I used a fuel line clamp I got at harbor freight to hold the hose tight to the screwdriver allowing me to get the proper number of turns of the female end onto the hose without the hose twisting. fist pic is of the one I had issue with the last pic is that one fixed, then some of the others I put on. They should all be rotated 90* to the right. I have cycled the system 15 times and auto leveled 2 times and it sat about 24 hours, so far so good. I do however think I will get some GATES G1 hose from my local NAPA to keep on hand just in case (50 feet should get me enough for emergencies). I would like to replace all the lines with quality Gates line. BUT that is a little expensive for the moment and I don't have the time before our fist trip this year. A project for a future day.
__________________ 2011 RAM / airbags / Anderson Ult. hitch / 2017 Montana 3721RL/Disc brakes, oil-bath Timkin bearings, shocks, X-factor/Tank-less water heater and built in water softener/Barker auto drain valves/4x100 amp Battle born/Go-power 3000 whole rig inverter/all LED running lights and a lot more.
I am following this thread...I dont have an issue now but my day might come.
I dont know anything about hydraulics besides what i have learned from this forum.
How do you put the system to “zero” (Probably not the correct term) where there is no pressure on the hoses so you can remove/unscrew a fitting?
__________________
MikenDebbie Aggie ‘77 in the sticks near Austin TX
2019 Chevy 3500 High Country DRW
2018 Montana 3921FB
Aussie Gus + Texas Heeler Jimmy
I am following this thread...I dont have an issue now but my day might come.
I dont know anything about hydraulics besides what i have learned from this forum.
How do you put the system to “zero” (Probably not the correct term) where there is no pressure on the hoses so you can remove/unscrew a fitting?
The hyd system always has pressure on the lines … with pump nit running just loosen a fitting on the item needing attention and it will bleed off.. you will get a small amount of fluid loss.
I am following this thread...I dont have an issue now but my day might come.
I dont know anything about hydraulics besides what i have learned from this forum.
How do you put the system to “zero” (Probably not the correct term) where there is no pressure on the hoses so you can remove/unscrew a fitting?
If you are working on the front jacks or the manifolds by the pump you need to put the trailer on the truck or heavy duty jack stands which is what I did. I am not 100% sure if the trailer would drop when the pressure is released on those but I believe it would, so better safe than sorry.
__________________ 2011 RAM / airbags / Anderson Ult. hitch / 2017 Montana 3721RL/Disc brakes, oil-bath Timkin bearings, shocks, X-factor/Tank-less water heater and built in water softener/Barker auto drain valves/4x100 amp Battle born/Go-power 3000 whole rig inverter/all LED running lights and a lot more.
If you are working on the front jacks or the manifolds by the pump you need to put the trailer on the truck or heavy duty jack stands which is what I did. I am not 100% sure if the trailer would drop when the pressure is released on those but I believe it would, so better safe than sorry.
CORRECT. Any work on the hyd lines, Hydac valve, etc on FRT LG the RV must either be hooked to truck or some jack stands under frame.. The two LG legs are held in the extend position OR retract position via 2000 psi pressure... crack open a fitting and they will retract..
BUT.. all this will do is bottom out the LG and wont hurt anything provided nothing is in the way...
I really hate to rain on my own parade. I want to let the group know these fittings don't last on the OEM Lippert hose. Even when making sure that they where fully seated. I decided to cycle the system 20 times and check for leaks. Low and behold they where leaking. So rather than continuing to mess with the issue over and over I purchased 150ft of GATES G1 hose. I reused all the new fittings and replaced all the hydraulic lines for the 6 point system. It took me 2 days but I should be good for a long long while. The only lines that are OEM are the orange lines from the slide room selector switches to the slide room pistons. I am attaching a few pics the last is of all new lines at one of the rear jacks.
__________________ 2011 RAM / airbags / Anderson Ult. hitch / 2017 Montana 3721RL/Disc brakes, oil-bath Timkin bearings, shocks, X-factor/Tank-less water heater and built in water softener/Barker auto drain valves/4x100 amp Battle born/Go-power 3000 whole rig inverter/all LED running lights and a lot more.
__________________ 2011 RAM / airbags / Anderson Ult. hitch / 2017 Montana 3721RL/Disc brakes, oil-bath Timkin bearings, shocks, X-factor/Tank-less water heater and built in water softener/Barker auto drain valves/4x100 amp Battle born/Go-power 3000 whole rig inverter/all LED running lights and a lot more.
2011 RAM / airbags / Anderson Ult. hitch / 2017 Montana 3721RL/Disc brakes, oil-bath Timkin bearings, shocks, X-factor/Tank-less water heater and built in water softener/Barker auto drain valves/4x100 amp Battle born/Go-power 3000 whole rig inverter/all LED running lights and a lot more.
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