Clear Adapter on Sewer Hose

[RKassl]

Can someone tell me what the part is you put on your sewer hose to see how the tanks are flushing? Any specific part number that will fit the new Montana.

Thanks

[Bill and Ann]

I use the clear adapter with a side flush bib for a hose to be attached. I don't use the hose attachment as I have the cleanout attachment on the unit. But, I can see when the water is running clear. I keep this on the unit at all times and connect the hose to it. This adapter is available at CW or other outlets.

[Bill Hill]

We use the same set up as Bill & Ann. Just remember to let the black tank fill up before emptying as it will flush better when starting from full. If you fill & flush a couple of times it'll get pretty clean.

[sreigle]

You can get them at any RV dealer and many walmarts. I have two or three different styles and have even hooked them together when I needed just a few more inches length in the hose. Here's a picture of one type, this one is an elbow. I also have a straight one. These connect to the hose itself. I also have one that connects dump valve to an adapter already on the hose.
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/p...=3709&src=SRQB

[kdeiss]

Camping World I think about $7-8 Bucks. I would not be with out you can see the water getting clearer as you flush

[patodonn]

Another "investment" is a sliding gate valve mounted where the dump pipe cap presently fits. Parts are inexpensive and it is easy to install. You can even find one that just locks on, just like the present dump pipe cap. The new valve has a cap on it, and the sewer hose bayonet connector fits on it the same way.

The first advantage is that you won't ever suffer the problem of opening the cap and finding that one of the tanks leaked a bit, or worse, you left a valve open by accident. In either case, driving will put the last "puddles" from an almost empty tank into the dump line. Just keep the "new" valve closed while traveling. When you take the cap off, you can hook up the sewer line, then open the valve. It has saved me a couple of times. If you can get the extra valve with a clear plastic neck, you can even see what awaits you when you open the valve.

The second advantage is that you can effectively "interconnect" the gray (bath)water and the galley tanks by closing the new valve and then opening both the gray water and galley tank valves. That gives you a combined waste water storage space equal to the totals of both of the tanks plus the volume of the dump line itself (3-4 gal?). We fill up the shower holding tank lots sooner than the galley tank, so that gives us at least a couple of extra days before dumping. Or, if both tank valves are closed and one tank fills up late at night, just interconnect them, open both valves, then resolve the problem the next day. Takes about 30 seconds to do it.

Best,

[sreigle]

quote:Originally posted by patodonn

Another "investment" is a sliding gate valve mounted where the dump pipe cap presently fits. Parts are inexpensive and it is easy to install.

Less than $20 in parts and 15 minutes in labor. I had to cut off the old pipe just behind the nipples with a hacksaw. I used pvc cement to mount the new sleeve and the valve. If you buy these things at CW, the valve itself is on the shelves but you have to go to the parts counter to get the sleeve. Be sure to get the sleeve that fits OVER the end of the new valve housing. That housing is the same size as the dump pipe on the Montana so you need the sleeve. If you get a sleeve that fits inside you provide a surface for TP and other things to hang up on the way out the pipe.

The advantages I see are the same stated by PJ. This definitely was a good addition for us.