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Old 04-03-2015, 05:25 AM   #1
rondora
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M.O.C. #17169
Trouble loading fifth wheel onto superglyde

I tow with a 2015 Ram 3500 and have been experiencing problems when hooking up to my super glyde 18T. I have problems both hooking up and disconnecting. Every once in awhile it works as it should, but most of the time I have to go back and forth and up and down 20 to 30 times before it releases or latches. I try to get the truck lined up as straight as I can. Just wondering if it could be because the truck is approx 2" higher in the rear. I would appreciate you input.
Tks!
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:16 AM   #2
Drifty1
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For hooking up you might want to try lowering the trailer so it rides a little heavier on the hitch... I have trouble once and a while unhooking but it seems that I need to take a little more weight off the truck then everything is fine..
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Old 04-03-2015, 11:45 AM   #3
pineranch
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The straighter the better with slight separation between K-pin & hitch. You will find your sweet spot.
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:25 PM   #4
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You will also have better hitching and unhitching if you make sure the adjustment at the front of the hitch is a bit more than snug. If it is easy manually moving the slider from an angle to square with the hitch, then it is not adjusted properly. You must loosen the nut and back out the bolt with the flat hex plate a bit, then tighten the bolt until the moving part of the hitch is almost hard to square up with the hitch itself. Also, what was already said, you must have your kingpin set so it rides up the hitch plate as you back into it, and the trip mechanism will trigger the hitch to close. If you are high, the trip device will not operate. Also, a shot of WD40 on the hitch plate will aid in the hitching operation. All this is explained in the owners manual.
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Old 04-04-2015, 05:23 AM   #5
rondora
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Thanks for your replys guys...good advice from all. I was going to take my hitch out today, but instead I think I'll do some practice load/unloads in my driveway (without an audience!). I didn't get a manual with my hitch, but can probably find one on line. I know my hitch flops around easily when not held down by the fifth wheel. I'll try loading with weight on the truck...I've always thought you had to have a gap in between the hitch and the fifth wheel.
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:52 PM   #6
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rondora we had the same issue when we got our superglide. When the capture plate on the king pin makes contact with the back of the hitch the hitch plate should be angled with the front higher than the back. You want the weight of the 5er on the hitch when you back the truck up.
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Old 04-04-2015, 04:16 PM   #7
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The owners manual is here http://www.pullrite.com/sites/pullri...20Manual_3.pdf
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Old 04-04-2015, 06:12 PM   #8
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And be sure to have the jaws closed when you back into them and let the kingpin open the jaws.
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Old 04-04-2015, 06:32 PM   #9
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Everything above for hitching. Unhitching is a little more challenging. Basically, if there is either forward or backward pressure on the hitch it is hard to unhitch. So lift the Monty up until you can wiggle the hitch (pivot it) a little. If you go too high, you are just as bad as not high enough. Also, if you can't get it to pivot move the truck forward or backward and try again. The obvious thing is if you back up slightly uphill, then you would need to pull forward since you had backward pressure on when parking. and vice versa.
Oh, and chock the wheels tightly before you start lowering the landing gear. With any kind of slope you will get pressure on the legs if you don't have the wheels locked in place. I bent mine when parked on sloping driveway one time. Eventually had to replace one leg.
Good luck.
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Old 04-05-2015, 04:43 AM   #10
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Thanks for all of your responses guys! I loaded it twice yesterday the way you recommended and it went very smooth, sliding up the ramp and locking in the first try. It unhitched real easy too, but I hadn't moved it so I guess the next test will be when I take it back down the road and unhitch at a different angle. I did adjust the 2" bolt that rohrmann suggested might be out of tune too. I'm having better thoughts about the next time I'm in an RV park unloading/loading with a few onlookers. Again, I really appreciate all of your input.
Tks!
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Old 04-05-2015, 05:57 AM   #11
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Ron,
I too have a Superglide. I find it unhitches much better if I idle back into the hitch and then set the parking brake. It removes the pressure on the coupler. The hitch/unhitch procedure is also detailed in the owners manual and if followed closely, works very well. BTW, I wipe down the hitch plate and the capture plate that is mounted to the pin box with 3 in 1 oil every time before hitching. Smooth as silk.
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Old 04-05-2015, 07:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by CORattler

Ron,
I too have a Superglide. I find it unhitches much better if I idle back into the hitch and then set the parking brake. It removes the pressure on the coupler. The hitch/unhitch procedure is also detailed in the owners manual and if followed closely, works very well. BTW, I wipe down the hitch plate and the capture plate that is mounted to the pin box with 3 in 1 oil every time before hitching. Smooth as silk.
Tks Jay. I did print off a copy of the owners manual and will be following it. Tks!
Ron
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Old 04-19-2015, 02:05 PM   #13
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I second most of what others have said here. Takes some time to get the hang of it. You have already figured out that the correct height of the kingpin and hitch plate is key. One thing I learned (the hard way) is the trigger latch inside the hitch plate opening MUST be in the proper position or it won't cause the jaws to latch. Finally figured it out one time and used a big screwdriver to push it into place. NEVER put your fingers in there to mess around with anything though!
As CORattler said, the secret to easy unlatching is to raise the trailer just so it starts to slightly lift off the hitch plate and make sure there is no tension on the latch by allowing the truck to very slightly move back (I just usually put it in neutral or reverse and then neutral without even moving) It doesn't take much tension to make the release handle hard to move.
Be sure to put a hefty padlock through the release handle opening when hitched to prevent anyone from releasing the handle when you don't want it to be!
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Old 04-19-2015, 03:36 PM   #14
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I have the 2900 18K ISR model, and it is one that a padlock can't be installed. I contacted Pullrite and suggested an easy fix in the design which would enable a lock to be installed, but was blown off with, "we will discuss this with our engineers". I would like to lock it, but after a couple years of towing, there has been no problems.
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Old 04-19-2015, 07:06 PM   #15
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Really, you can't lock it? Glad you haven't had any issues with vandals unlocking your hitch for you! I haven't either, but all my pins are locked...release handle, hitch to Superrail pins etc.
I've heard a couple of horror stories of idiots who think it's a joke to pull pins and handles etc.
Here's a pic of my handle locked for reference...
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Old 04-19-2015, 07:15 PM   #16
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Yes, I'm aware of the way to lock the 16K model, but the 18K model is much wider from the hole to the front of the plate. The caption from the owners manual showing how to install a lock, even states, (feature available only on #2700 SuperGlide).
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Old 04-20-2015, 08:21 AM   #17
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Wow, that seems like a major engineering oversight by Pullrite!
I guess the best bet is just always do a visual check...
One other thought is that there are padlocks available with extra long shackles or even U shape bike locks...
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Old 04-20-2015, 08:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by stengels

And be sure to have the jaws closed when you back into them and let the kingpin open the jaws.
Gotta disagree on this one...the jaws must be opened not closed. This from the manual "CAUTION: Damage will result should you attempt to hook up with the Lock Jaw Assembly in the closed position."
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:29 PM   #19
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I ignored that comment, as the author apparently is not familiar with the Pullrite wrap around jaw mechanism. Many of the other brands, especially with the clam shell jaw design can be backed into with the jaws closed, and they open to receive the pin, and close behind it when the pin is seated. Then a secondary latch must be closed to prevent the mechanism from opening. And what was said earlier, DO NOT PUT YOUR FINGERS NEAR THE TRIGGER that causes the mechanism to close. I have used a long wrench to trigger it, and things happen very fast.
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Old 04-20-2015, 03:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by kingdaddy

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by stengels

And be sure to have the jaws closed when you back into them and let the kingpin open the jaws.
Gotta disagree on this one...the jaws must be opened not closed. This from the manual "CAUTION: Damage will result should you attempt to hook up with the Lock Jaw Assembly in the closed position."
You are 100% correct!
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