333DB Water Line Question

[Drought Buster]

I have an issue with the fresh water system in my High Country 333DB that I am hoping someone can help me with. Along the roof of the large storage compartment near the front of the coach on the door side there are four fresh water lines running together just inside the compartment door. These lines then bend up at 90 degrees and go into the cabinet under the sink in the front bedroom. Two of the lines go to braided hoses for the faucet. But the other two are connected to each other seemingly making a continous loop. The problem is that the two lines in the storage compartment that make the continous loop have some pink anti-freeze in them that I can not get out. I have run every faucet and toliet in the coach, including the outside shower and the two facuts for the washing maching that we have never used. They are all running clear and the pink in those lines in the compartment never moves. The problem is that when I run the hot water in the sink in the bedroom it is foamy and I think it has something to do with that anti-freeze in the line. Does any know why they would have run these two lines into that cabinet just to connect them together and how the anti-freeze would have gotten in there and how to get it out. Oddly, when the water heater by-pass is in the on position, I do not get the foam. However, no anti-freeze has ever been in the water heater and I have check twice to make sure that valve is working and it seals it up fine. Any help would sure be appreciated. I am at its end with this.

[racerjoe]

do you have an outside shower? or a washer hook up? run water thru both of them if you have.

[Irlpguy]

They are your anti backflush for when you back flush your Black water tank. I had a problem with the valve leaking there and it had to be replaced. You should be able to feel the valve when you reach up behind the sink.
It is in a better place than some have found them...

Oh as an afterthought and reading the remainder of your post, if you run water into the Black water flush it should clean out the antifreeze in those lines, but that should not be getting into any other line in the unit. The foaming will likely go away after you have run enough clean water, ours does that also when we de-winterize.

[Drought Buster]

Thanks so much for the advice. The dealer just sent me an email and suggested running water through the black tan flush as well. I sure hope that there is no connection beteween that and the faucet in the bathroom. Hopefully that was just a coincidence.

So where it looks like the two lines are connected together under the sink is actually a valve? I could tell it was more than a simple connection, but had no idea what it was. Seems odd that it is so far away from anything. But I will check that out.

Any idea why it would foam when the by-bass is set to noremal flow and not when it was set to bypass the water heater? Also, when I run that faucet in the front bedroom, the pump cycles on and off and the flow is a little less than the other faucets. When the other faucets are open the pump stays on continually until the faucet is closed. But that is not the case in the front bedroom. When I open that faucet, the pump comes on, runs for a few seconds, then goes off, then comes back on, then goes off...

[Irlpguy]

My guess is the foaming is due to perhaps the water heater not being completely full, I have noticed my pump seems to foam until all the lines are completely full. I have read that the hot water tank does not fill completely but creates a small air pocket in the tank, this helps absorb some of the expansion when the water is heated.

You indicate the flow is less at the bedroom sink than other places, that would account for the pump cycling on and off, it is able to reach pressure momentarily and turn off due to the lower flow, not sure why you would have a lessened flow in that sink unless there is a blockage or kinked line along there somewhere.

Always fun getting things going each year, and for the first time getting familiar with the unit.

[dieselguy]

If it's similar to my Montana ... it's lines put in for a forward laundry. If they didn't put in an actual washer connection say in the front closet and the lines are just capped, you'll not get the antifreeze out unless you un-cap them. Do you have washer faucets in the front closet? If so ... simply open them unto a small bucket ... that will flush them out.
On Edit ... When we first got our unit, after a few months the water in the bathroom sink began to get a bit rank when you first turned it on each day. I finally figured out the washer lines were getting a bit ripe not being used and were backfeeding into the sink lines when there was no water pressure as when we traveled. This backfeeding may be the answer to your foamy water caused by the antifreeze still in the lines. If you don't have any intention of a washer like I don't ... just cap off the washer lines behind the storage locker wall.

[Drought Buster]

I do have the washer hookup in the front closet. However, the lines for that are T-ed off the two lines going to the braided faucet hoses just after the 90 degree turn up from the storage compartment before the lines enter the bathroom cabinet. I did hook a hose up to both the hot and cold water connections for the washer hookup and ran them until they ran clear. But those are not the same lines I can see the anti freeze in. I am thinking that it is the black tank flush issue described above and I plan to run the flush when I get home tonight to see if that moves the antifreeze.

I agree that the pump cycling could mean that there is some kind of air lock or kink in the line somewhere, but I can't figure out where and I can't understand why it would occur with both the hot and the cold. Seems unlikely they both became kinked, but could happen I suppose. It is also odd that last year there was no issue at all and now it cycles a lot. That is why I am leaning toward some type of air lock. Still don't know how to fix it, though.

Thanks for the help. If anyone else has ideas, I would still love to hear them.

[Drought Buster]

The idea that the foam is due to air in the lines because the water heater dsoes not fill completely to allow for expansion when the water is heated is interesting. I have not heated the water yet this year. Maybe I will fill it back up tonight and turn the water heater on to see if the foam goes away when the water is hot and the heater is, thereofre, full to capcity. I did not know that the water heater does not fill to capcity with cold water. Will see if that makes a diference. Thanks.