Low Point Drains......... - Montana Owners Club

Glenn and Lorraine · 10-22-2004, 11:25 AM

This question fits this It's a Dirty Job but Someone has to do it! category perfectly But there is no reason why it should be here at all.

With all the improvements they have made to RV's and RVing over the many years WHY is it we still have to crawl on our backs under our rig in not so clean conditions to get to these ridiculous drains. The problem is magnified when you get up in age, are out of shape and in my case weigh over 300 pounds There has to be a simpler better way. Anyone got a better idea??

sreigle · 10-22-2004, 12:07 PM

Glenn, someone asked about those after our factory tour. We were told there are some regulations about the low point drains. I don't know the rules but you'd sure think they could be made easier to access.

8.1al · 10-22-2004, 02:21 PM

Our previous 5th wheel (Jayco)had the drains running into the storage area to valves and then down. Much nicer but cost more to do. Thankfully we don't have to reach them very often, even better if you do like Glenn and Lorainne and move south in the fall to avoid having to winterize.

Glenn and Lorraine · 10-22-2004, 02:38 PM

As a matter of fact the last time I opened any of them was over a year ago.
When I first got the rig I filled the freshwater tank to test the system and pump. Found that everything worked great and wanted to drain the tank. Problem was I didn't know where to find the drain. I went into the house and researched the problem on the MOC forum. Asked a coulpe question, got the answer, drained the tank and I haven't touched them since.

I only thought about the drains again when responding to a question in another thread.

Northstar · 10-22-2004, 09:18 PM

Thanks for the great post. I too hope not to have to get under our coach to open all those drains. Happyrving.....

BillyRay · 10-23-2004, 08:45 AM

last spring I had every intention on making it easier, but forgot...then ran out of time. I was thinking of adding drain valves to the ends. you would still have to climb under there, but only to turn a knob. it would make life alot easier. the drains are already threaded ...so it would be simple to just add a shut off valve to it instead of those stupid caps!

sreigle · 10-23-2004, 01:43 PM

BillyRay, funny you should mention that. I bought drain valves today and intend to install them tomorrow if the weather cooperates. Mostly I'm doing it to shorten the lines hanging below the belly so I can enclose and insulate them like RC and Samantha did.

kdeiss · 10-23-2004, 02:40 PM

I added valves on both low point drains and fresh water tank.On the fresh water tank I added a hose fitting in case I have to drain to the lawn or sewer Etc.

sreigle · 10-23-2004, 07:00 PM

Really good idea, Ken. I'm scratching my head wondering why I didn't think to buy a third valve today, for the freshwater drain. That one I use far more often than the low point drains. And the hose connection sounds like a great idea. We're usually in an RV Park when we need to drain and refill the tank so a hose would keep it from soaking the area directly under and around the house.

BillyRay · 10-24-2004, 11:26 AM

good point.

NJ Hillbilly · 10-24-2004, 03:40 PM

Did You guys find a valve that directly threads on or does it have a nipple to slide inside the hose? Where did You find them?

John

OntMont · 10-24-2004, 04:37 PM

Several people have made reference to THREE drain points, and I can understand why there should be, but I can only find two, one on each side, one is clearly for the fresh water tank, the other is under the kitchen counter where the HW heater is located, but I think it only drains the cold water. To drain the HW tank, I had to remove the anode rod and open the safety vent. Does everybody have 3 drain points? Maybe I have one up on top of the belly cover that was never dropped through? This on an '02 3255RL.

That reminds me: bad smell was a topic here a while ago. Boy was mine bad when I took the anode rod out! Sulphur smell and black deposits on the anode. This was water from Pla-Mor that had been sitting in the tank since we got back from the rally. Never had this problem before, it must be related to the high iron content in the Pla-Mor water.

sreigle · 10-24-2004, 04:58 PM

I bought mine at Lowe's and see they're the same thing RC and Samantha used (Dick gave me a picture). His picture shows nipples installed as you describe so I suppose I'll have to go back to Lowe's to get the nipples. They didn't come with them.

OntMont, on our prior Montana those low point drains were close to the axles. I don't recall if between axles or just near them. On this Montana they're behind the rear axle a little ways. Should be two of them right together.

kdeiss · 10-25-2004, 04:05 AM

You can use a barb fitting to go inside of hose if i remember 1/2.Also you can get fitting to thread to replace cap. I found both at Loew's

steves · 10-29-2004, 05:38 AM

Am I correct in understanding that the ball valves I put on to replace the end caps would be 1/2 inch?

Steve S

kdeiss · 10-29-2004, 08:02 AM

Steve,No I believe 3/4 to replace the cap with valve or you can use a barb fitting 1/2 to go inside the hose and use hose clamp.You can go ether way i did my fresh water tank with the barb and low poimt drains with the thread on valve both works well.

sreigle · 10-29-2004, 05:55 PM

Ken, these thread on valves just thread on in place of the cap, is that right?
thanks.

Montana_1683 · 11-04-2004, 02:10 PM

Winterized the Monty today, it might get to freezing tonight

. Guess camping season is over. Located the 2 low point drains near the rear of the RV under the rear kitchen not too far from the hot water heater. Had a devil of a time getting the caps off. Still think I'll run an extension to the edge of the Monty and use a shut off valve. A large amount of water drained when all the faucets were open. It is unusul to have to remove the anoid rod on this unit all my other RV had just a plastic plug at the bottom of the tank. It is unbelievable that it only took 2 gallons of antifreeze to do the whole unit. It was sure nice to sit in the comfy chair to pump antifreeze through the lines. Would have been nice to have had my assistant to turn on & off the faucets so I wouldn't have to get up. After making sure all faucets were running pink, I went an removed the low point drain caps and collected the antifreeze and poured it down all the drains. I don't think I missed anything, yep I did the outside shower. Also removed the cap from the fresh water tank, it is also getting a shut off valve at the side of the Monty. The Monty was easier to winterize than any other travel trailers I have owned. The last unit had the low point drains between the axles equal distance from the tires, a real pain to drain & to re-route to the side of the unit to place valves on these lines.

Gary

palebluedot · 11-04-2004, 02:49 PM

Our first camper was a Jayco TT which had valves inside for the low point drains with just an open hose extended below the floor. Unfortunately we have a flying critter called a "dirt dobber" who loves to build his nest in such locations by packing it with mud. This plugs the drain tube rendering the valve useless. I agree that it is a PITA to crawl under to remove the drain cap, but it foils the dobbers.

kdeiss · 11-05-2004, 04:30 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Ken, these thread on valves just thread on in place of the cap, is that right?
thanks.

Steve that is correct if I remember I used teflon tape.Sorry I missed your post

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