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Old 03-27-2007, 05:47 AM   #1
Bob & Lee
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3400 Slide Floors

We traded for the 3400 and it is the first RV we have had with the long large slide outs. Is it normal for the floor in the slide,LR and DR to feel soft spring and give? We also have more movement in the trailer than our old one when we walk around. Is this normal? I have a kin pin tripod, jacks on the frame in front and rear of the axels,the rear stabilizers,and a home made copy of BAL wheel chalks.

Bob
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:01 AM   #2
Mudchief
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There have been a few that have had the soft spots in the floor of the slide. I think the fix was for the dealer to add a layer of sub flooring under the carpet.
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Old 03-27-2007, 02:02 PM   #3
wswebster
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No our living room, dinning room slide floor is not soft. And be careful how you stabilize this unit, some folks have had trouble with flexing the frame. Stacy
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Old 03-27-2007, 02:07 PM   #4
Native Tex
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Guys remember too that the jacks on the back are purely stability, not for leveling. Suggest you get some of the leveling blocks or several pieces of 2x12 to use as leveling blocks.
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Old 03-27-2007, 02:59 PM   #5
sreigle
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It is normal. We have the same thing. When in Goshen we stopped at the factory service center and asked. They said it is normal and they are using thinner plywood now. Just as strong but thinner. I prefer the older, thicker plywood floors that didn't flex.
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Old 03-27-2007, 03:23 PM   #6
ggranch
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Steve, I'm just a dumb ole country kid. Would you explain how the floor is stronger made from thinner plywood. It seems to me that in this application, stiffer, not more flexible, would be the preferred way to go. Is this one of those "oldworld craftmanship" things?
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:19 PM   #7
richfaa
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Not sure what you mean by soft but ours, and every one we have been in is ..sort of..well ..it gives a little..you might say flexes a bit.I think that is a normal thing as it does the same thing in other brands.
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:16 PM   #8
sreigle
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ggranch, from one dumb ole country kid to another, I haven't a clue. That's just what they told me. I do know the 2003 3295RK we traded in had a long slide, too, and it didn't flex like this one does. Like Rich, I wouldn't say ours is soft or spongy but it does give. Put a full glass of water on the dining table, then step fairly heavily onto the floor next to the table and you'll be wiping up the water. Been there. Except it was milk.

Re the frame discussion, the frame is ten inches but like just about any rig's frame that's this long, it can flex. As O.V. said, use leveling blocks under the wheels for side to side leveling and the front landing gear for fore-aft leveling and use the rear stabilizers just as stabilizers. We also have scissor jacks on the frame behind the wheels but only snug them to eliminate the up and down bounce.
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Old 03-28-2007, 05:46 AM   #9
Bob & Lee
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Thanks for all the great information, This is our first with a large slide, Ill keep a eye on it. I have the jacks under the frame, I do not tighten too tight they are just hand tight to stop the up and down movement, I have been looking at the strong arms hear good reports just need the money, put on list..

Bob
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Old 03-28-2007, 07:55 AM   #10
sreigle
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Bob, I keep fiddling with the stabilizers to max the stability and am not sure what is the best approach. What I do (currently) is snug each rear stabilizer until it touches down. Then I go back and turn each 3/4 turn tighter. That seems to make a difference. Then I lower the scissor jacks until they just touch down. If I tighten any more they will lift the rear stabilizers. I don't know what's the best approach but this is what I'm doing currently. I've tried 1/2 turn and 1 full turn and no turns and settled on 3/4 turn.

Al (countryguy) also convinced me to use several blocks with the stabilizers to keep the angle from being too downward. That seems to help, too. And also to put several blocks under the front landing gear, then lower the gear with the button until just a few inches above the blocks. Then drop the inner legs. That seems to help stability also. Dropping the inners a long way seems to hurt stability.
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Old 03-28-2007, 08:13 AM   #11
Bob & Lee
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Steve,
I have been ajusting all the supports to be firm but trying not to lift.
I had thought about the long reach of the front legs loked at the strong arms. I saw a RV that they had taken 4 RR ties and cut them about 24" and stacked them 2 which made 16"wide and 2 high which was 16" bolted together and looked like cut a 1" slot for the foot to fit so it wont slip raised the foot about 16" off the ground. but a little heavy.
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Old 03-28-2007, 07:43 PM   #12
dsprik
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I know Glenn always tries to get blocks up under his front landing gear fairly high. I believe the philosophy is that the more wood up and the less aluminum down makes for less wiggle. Makes sense.
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Old 04-01-2007, 12:55 PM   #13
keham
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Before I got the strong arms. I used to make sure the inter and outer parts of the front legs were the same. Really helped I thought. Now with the strong arms I just drop the feet and and lock the strong arms and am good to go. I love them but the wife really loves them..
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Old 04-01-2007, 04:38 PM   #14
dsprik
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Ken, this is definitely on my short list. I have had their site bookmarked for several months.
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Old 04-02-2007, 02:05 PM   #15
MIMF2
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Boy! Sure do like my hydraulic legs on that 5 degree outward angle!!
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Old 04-02-2007, 04:59 PM   #16
sreigle
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Dale, you need another right bracket after that first [IMG
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:01 PM   #17
Dont
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Hi just got my 3400 back from the dealer and the factory had them lay 3/8'pice of plywood under the carpet, also repair my chairs all the bolts came out of them because of no lock washer on them them.
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