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Old 05-21-2006, 12:30 PM   #1
RKassl
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Am Doing Something Wrong?

When I get ready to unhook the Monty I have always put a piece of 4x4 under the landing pads. One of the posts today talked about a newbie slipping off them or something when hooking up?
Most of the places I camp including my storage pad are firm surfaces, so should I not be doing this in case the trailer moves?

What we also do before we unhook is to put the wheel chucks in place between the trailer tires so that the trailer will not move.

Am I doing something wrong? Any suggestions to do it better or safer?

Thanks!
 
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Old 05-21-2006, 12:40 PM   #2
Glenn and Lorraine
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You are doing nothing wrong.
Here is a quote from my reply to that other post....

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Glenn and Lorraine

We use blocks all the time both on the front jacks and rear stabilizers as well and have had no problems.

The SECRET WORD here is CHOCKS!!!! CHOCK IT and it will not move and therefore it will not fall off the blocks.

I have found the less leg extended the less movement and that goes for the rear stabilizers as well.

Photo added on edit
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Old 05-21-2006, 12:44 PM   #3
Glass Guy
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Just remember to chock the wheels and your trailer can't move if the wheels are chocked, Roman
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Old 05-21-2006, 12:56 PM   #4
Mac
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Glenn, and Roman are correct, CHOCkS are the answer, and as always be careful. I don't have a bedsaver in this truck but when I get a new TV and hitch I think I'll add the bedsaver as well.

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Old 05-21-2006, 01:44 PM   #5
CountryGuy
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BINGO GLENN SAID IT ALL!!! And, I said it on the other post too! Ya gotta chock em, rotochocks, plastic ones, both, all of the above, CHOCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 05-21-2006, 02:10 PM   #6
OntMont
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Chocks yes!!!. I also keep my blocks less than the clearance distance between the overhang and the bed rails. In my case this amounts to a stack of 5 2x8s all nailed together. As others have said the use of blocks helps stabilize the trailer.
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Old 05-21-2006, 02:12 PM   #7
gkbutler
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We always use blocks and chocks. Sounds to me like he backed into his hitch!
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Old 05-21-2006, 02:40 PM   #8
stiles watson
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I like to use either 2x8 or 2x10 lumber to make a larger footprint, i.e., better weight distribution which is important to me. Of course the chocking is of paramount importance.
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Old 05-21-2006, 02:44 PM   #9
gkbutler
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Don't know what is wrong with my computer, every time I post lately, I get duplicate or triplicate posts. Tonight I can't open the delete window. Sorry
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Old 05-21-2006, 03:25 PM   #10
Driftwoodgal
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Maybe I won't ever be hooking up the Monty We might end up in a divorce if I backed his truck into the new rig. I feel so sorry for these people.

We do chock everything, in fact once I post the picture of our rig I will have to get instructions on posting a chock that hubby made.

Glen,

I will have to show Bob your picture.
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Old 05-21-2006, 04:00 PM   #11
Countryfolks
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RKassl " When I get ready to unhook the Monty I have always put a piece of 4x4 under the landing pads."

That's probably a little small for stability, even with chocks. I think I would fasten two 8"x 4x4 side by side to a 1/2x8x10 piece of plywood for each jack. Holes could be drilled in the extra 2" for a rope handle.

Skip
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Old 05-22-2006, 09:58 AM   #12
kwbosch
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I hope I don’t offend anyone with this comment but when I look at Glenn’s picture, I see an accident waiting to happen.
Maybe living in earthquake alley for so long has me overly cautious.
I use 2x8x12” inch blocks whenever I’m setting up on hot asphalt or soft sand or dirt but otherwise, I’ll trust my steel landing gear legs to do what they were designed to do.

Ken
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Old 05-22-2006, 04:54 PM   #13
sreigle
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We have had rv parks with concrete pads require that blocks be used and not just the landing gear feet. I guess that much weight spread over a small area might damage the concrete, or so they seem to think. I really don't know if it's enough to cause damage or not. So we always use something to spread the weight, just in case.
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Old 05-23-2006, 12:44 AM   #14
Glenn and Lorraine
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by kwbosch

I hope I don’t offend anyone with this comment but when I look at Glenn’s picture, I see an accident waiting to happen.
Maybe living in earthquake alley for so long has me overly cautious.
I use 2x8x12” inch blocks whenever I’m setting up on hot asphalt or soft sand or dirt but otherwise, I’ll trust my steel landing gear legs to do what they were designed to do.
Ken
Trust me when I say "you are not going to offend me." Everyone is entitled to his or her opinion.
As far as the "I’ll trust my steel landing gear legs to do what they were designed to do." That I guess is just the point..In my opinion, Other than holding up the front end they don't do what they are designed to do. It's like standing on a pair of stilts versus a good solid surface.
And I already stay in hurricane valley but if I ever do visit earthquake alley I will keep this in mind.
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Old 05-23-2006, 05:10 AM   #15
BandJ
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Steve, you have given me good advice before. so here is another opportunity.

After pulling into the site I lower the front legs which rest on wood blocks. I then insert pins. I put plastic yellow chocks behind all 4 wheels. Then I raise the RV a little to loosen it from the tow vehicle hitch.

I sometimes have problems pulling the hitch lever to unlock PIN. If I rock the truck back and forth a few times I am able to free hitch from RV pin.

The problem is that sometimes when I rock the truck it will move the front legs off the blocks.

What are your suggestions.






Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle

We have had rv parks with concrete pads require that blocks be used and not just the landing gear feet. I guess that much weight spread over a small area might damage the concrete, or so they seem to think. I really don't know if it's enough to cause damage or not. So we always use something to spread the weight, just in case.
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Old 05-23-2006, 06:34 AM   #16
CountryGuy
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Bryan,

You don't say what kind of hitch you have, but as Glenn will affirm, the pullrite directions and owners of the company will tell you that after leveling side to side, blocking and chocking, you should BACK INTO the hitch and set your parking brake. You are not gonna try to move the 5er, just gently drive the truck back into the hitch. Then before you raise those legs very far, pull that release handle. I believe Al just takes a bit of pressure off the hitch.

Check out Glenn's list of RV sites/URL's, he might have a link to Pullrite, which I am sure will describe it better than I am. I might be missing a step. Al and I do this together as a team, he directs, I move the rig around, back into the hitch, pull up on ramps or something to level side to side if required. I don't want to misdirect you, so, best get the directions from the MANUFACTURER of your particular hitch. When we purchased ours we got a instruction sheet! As it was our first 5er, we used it! It might still be in the glove box! HAHA, maybe I should clean out that glove box, eh??

We know this backing in step works, cause when we forget, we have trouble pulling the handle on the hitch.
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Old 05-23-2006, 08:16 AM   #17
8.1al
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We have a Reese hitch and frequently have to gently back into the hitch to unlatch
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Old 05-23-2006, 06:57 PM   #18
Parrothead
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This reminds me of our first day with our first fifth wheel many years ago. Our PDI went very quickly because I was due at the hospital to have surgery that morning. We missed something or they didn't tell us. So we get the unit home and parked in front of the house. Ed went to take the truck off and couldm't get the hitch loose. My brother was there so he and Ed crawled up in the bed of the truck and look up under, around and over for over an hour. Finally I went in and called the dealer. "Back up an inch" We did, it came off and we have laughed about it ever since. When we purchased the 2nd 5er, they told us this during the PDI. We always back up an inch after putting the chocks behind the wheels - to hook up and unhook. The hitch lever pulls real smooth whren you fo this.
Happy trails....................
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Old 05-24-2006, 03:21 AM   #19
H. John Kohl
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I also have the Reese hitch. When I got to unhitch I have the truck brake on and the trailer tires "chocked" or blocked. When I raise the front of the trailer it pulls the pin back into the hitch "claws" the same as if you had move the truck forward an inch or so. This puts pressure on the claws and they will not release. As stated, buy just backing up half and inch it pushes the pin against the front of the hitch and allows the claws to be released. Once I back into the hitch carefully then I set the truck brake, pull the release lever, and then pull out from under the trailer.

I use 4x4x6 solid blocks under the front landing legs and the rear pads. The pads for my landing legs curve up which means they will sink quicker into blacktop or dirt. The blocks make a larger square surface to hold the weight on the ground and prevent damage.

As stated the wheel chocks or block should prevent movement. It you put enough pressure with the tow vehicle to move the trailer then you are definitely doing something wrong.

My two bits.

Good luck and tow safe.
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Old 05-24-2006, 03:44 AM   #20
lightningjack11
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I use 2x8's under each gear with chocks, except on cement slabs. 2 inchex high is about the highest I want to go just in case I have a Senior moment and push the trailer off high wood stands. For me blocks yes, chocks yes, but not high wooden stands. But my trailer is smaller and I don't have the sway problems of the larger units.

My change in attitude from the last post is I promise not to try to get anyone to see it my way anymore since it appears most members like the high stands and never, never fail to chock.

The last thing I want to do is offend anybody on this.
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