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Old 11-04-2005, 12:03 AM   #1
BandJ
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Harrodsburg
Posts: 191
M.O.C. #93
Rear Ladder Repair

The rear ladder is coming loose. I live 100 miles from the nearest repair dealer so I am going to attempt to repair myself.

The ladder is held to the RV at the very bottom and on the roof at the top. There are also six (6) connections along the ladder that are hidden inside of round metal tubes. It appears that these six connections are some type of screww that pulls the ladder to the RV.

If anyone has any experience with repairing these connection points I would appreciate some guidance.

 
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Old 11-04-2005, 02:54 AM   #2
ols1932
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Location: Cedar Rapids
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M.O.C. #1944
Mine broke loose on the bottom (I backed up too close to an embankment in an RV park in Tennessee). I repaired it myself using J-B Weld and some fiberglass material that comes with body repair kits. I cut a piece of the fiberglass about one-inch wide and two inches long. I placed J-B Weld around the break, then wrapped the fiberglass around the crack and then applied more J-B weld over the fiberglass. The stuff is a gray color but doesn't look too bad. It has held very well for over two years. A lot cheaper than taking it in for repairs or replacing the ladder!
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Old 11-04-2005, 05:29 AM   #3
jsmitfl
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Those legs your talking about are screwed to the main uprights. The bad thing is you have to pull the whole ladder off to get to them. At least the ones on the side walls. Then stick a screw driver in the hollow leg and tighten it up. Good luck
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Old 11-04-2005, 03:11 PM   #4
Russ and Sandy
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BandJ, I had the same problem this year on our 2955rl. It was getting downright spooky climbing the ladder and hearing the creaking and seeing movement.

From my (faulty) memory:
I tried tightening the screws holding the uprights to the mounting tubes and found they were all tight - as were the flange screws attaching the ladder assembly to the fiberglass.

So, I removed the flange screws at each mount location, except the two top mounts which attach the ladder to the roof.

Once, the flange screws were removed, I could see the problem. The screws holding the flanges to the tube were loose. The two at the bottom were especially bad- at least 1/4 inch backed out!

So, just tighten the screws, right? Well, not so fast! Three of those screws were severely rusted (one was one of the outer screws attaching the upright to the mounting tube). Finally got one of the three loose but no amount of penetrant soaking nor going back and forth would break them loose. Finally, after clamping between v-blocks in a vise they began to turn - well "turn" as in spin inside the tube! Definitely not what I wanted to see happen.

The nuts inside are called Star Nuts. After some Internet searching I found that name and some sites that sell them. Then it dawned on me they appeared to be the same as I had seen in younger days working with the front stem on my bicycles. Went to a local bike shop and bought 6.

I was still puzzled as to how to get the rusted Star Nuts out, since they only go IN and just dig in when you try to pull them out. I gave up and cut the screws off and pounded the remainder deeper into the tube far enough to allow a new one to be installed. (By the way, I guess there is a special tool to install them. I got away with it by inserting a screw into the new one and persuading it to go in - with some difficulty starting it and keeping it straight.)

Since the Star Nut is bare heat treated metal, it is prone to rust. I decided to pack the complete assembly with waterproof grease. Was a little concerned it may allow the Star Nut to slip when tightening or when pressure is applied while using the ladder. Made it since early summer with no problems. Maybe someone can come up with a better idea than grease to prevent the rusting/seizing of the screws in the nut.

I really think the ladder was never very tight because it feels so much more secure now when I use it and makes NO noise.

I think it is a bad design considering the environment it lives in.

I think the factory leaves them loose to make up for the lack of correct fitting of those tube angles. This just allows more water, salt or other corrosion producers to get in and, it just allows the screws to begin working their way out from day one.

One tip would be to number and mark the ladder mounting tubes and their relationship to the flanges and the mounting locations. After I put mine back together I realized that the factory doesn't necessarily cut the tubes off at the correct angles to match the contours. I thought I had some in the wrong position and wasted time trying to get a perfect match.

In hindsight another tip would be to consider doing some custom fitting of those tube angles for a "perfect" fit. Mine now has some stress on the fiberglass and probably should be taken apart again for the "customizing".

I think the Star Nuts are 1 inch. I tried posting 3 pictures at TinyPic.com. They are sort of fuzzy (and large) but may help you "see" how the thing works. Hope this helps - Sorry it got so long...

- Star Nut

- Star Nut in Ladder mount - rusted

- Loose screw holding ladder flange to the Ladder Star Nut inside the pipe - as it was when I removed it!


Russ


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Old 11-05-2005, 12:24 AM   #5
BandJ
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Wow.... Thank you for replying. I am going to attempt the fix myself now that you have given me all this great information.

Thanks again..



Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Russ and Sandy

BandJ, I had the same problem this year on our 2955rl. It was getting downright spooky climbing the ladder and hearing the creaking and seeing movement.

From my (faulty) memory:
I tried tightening the screws holding the uprights to the mounting tubes and found they were all tight - as were the flange screws attaching the ladder assembly to the fiberglass.

So, I removed the flange screws at each mount location, except the two top mounts which attach the ladder to the roof.

Once, the flange screws were removed, I could see the problem. The screws holding the flanges to the tube were loose. The two at the bottom were especially bad- at least 1/4 inch backed out!

So, just tighten the screws, right? Well, not so fast! Three of those screws were severely rusted (one was one of the outer screws attaching the upright to the mounting tube). Finally got one of the three loose but no amount of penetrant soaking nor going back and forth would break them loose. Finally, after clamping between v-blocks in a vise they began to turn - well "turn" as in spin inside the tube! Definitely not what I wanted to see happen.

The nuts inside are called Star Nuts. After some Internet searching I found that name and some sites that sell them. Then it dawned on me they appeared to be the same as I had seen in younger days working with the front stem on my bicycles. Went to a local bike shop and bought 6.

I was still puzzled as to how to get the rusted Star Nuts out, since they only go IN and just dig in when you try to pull them out. I gave up and cut the screws off and pounded the remainder deeper into the tube far enough to allow a new one to be installed. (By the way, I guess there is a special tool to install them. I got away with it by inserting a screw into the new one and persuading it to go in - with some difficulty starting it and keeping it straight.)

Since the Star Nut is bare heat treated metal, it is prone to rust. I decided to pack the complete assembly with waterproof grease. Was a little concerned it may allow the Star Nut to slip when tightening or when pressure is applied while using the ladder. Made it since early summer with no problems. Maybe someone can come up with a better idea than grease to prevent the rusting/seizing of the screws in the nut.

I really think the ladder was never very tight because it feels so much more secure now when I use it and makes NO noise.

I think it is a bad design considering the environment it lives in.

I think the factory leaves them loose to make up for the lack of correct fitting of those tube angles. This just allows more water, salt or other corrosion producers to get in and, it just allows the screws to begin working their way out from day one.

One tip would be to number and mark the ladder mounting tubes and their relationship to the flanges and the mounting locations. After I put mine back together I realized that the factory doesn't necessarily cut the tubes off at the correct angles to match the contours. I thought I had some in the wrong position and wasted time trying to get a perfect match.

In hindsight another tip would be to consider doing some custom fitting of those tube angles for a "perfect" fit. Mine now has some stress on the fiberglass and probably should be taken apart again for the "customizing".

I think the Star Nuts are 1 inch. I tried posting 3 pictures at TinyPic.com. They are sort of fuzzy (and large) but may help you "see" how the thing works. Hope this helps - Sorry it got so long...

- Star Nut

- Star Nut in Ladder mount - rusted

- Loose screw holding ladder flange to the Ladder Star Nut inside the pipe - as it was when I removed it!


Russ


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Old 11-05-2005, 01:10 AM   #6
jsmitfl
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BJ- Excellent post
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Old 11-05-2005, 03:05 AM   #7
lightningjack11
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Good pix's

Tried to get the star nuts so a dealer special ordered them for me. But I could not wait.

I put galvanized bolts all the way through and chrome acorn nut on the end. Much stronger than the star nuts. I have 6 that attach the ladder to the back. I had to rework 4 of them.

Also make sure there is a hole at the bottom of the ladder for drainage. If not the ladder fills up with water which contributes to the rust.
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Old 11-07-2005, 03:23 PM   #8
sreigle
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by lightningjack11

Also make sure there is a hole at the bottom of the ladder for drainage. If not the ladder fills up with water which contributes to the rust.
I wanted to stress this point in case anyone missed it. I drilled three holes in the bottom of the bottom step on ours about 3 years ago after reading about it on this forum. We've had no problems with this ladder.
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