Solar isn’t charging batteries.

[Tduce]

I have a new Montana and my inverter display is giving me a low battery error code. I connected to the solar system via Bluetooth and it’s only pulling 1.9 amps. I’m not even sure where to start. This is a brand new unit.

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by Tduce

I have a new Montana and my inverter display is giving me a low battery error code. I connected to the solar system via Bluetooth and it’s only pulling 1.9 amps. I’m not even sure where to start. This is a brand new unit.

More information would be helpful to assist you. What is the model and year of your trailer? "Pulling 1.9 amps", do you mean your solar system is supplying 1.9 amps? Do you have a system shunt that can cross check the solar controller readings? What is the voltage coming from the panels to the solar controller? What is the brand and amp rating of your solar controller? What is the wattage of your solar panels? Are you in a place where solar panels are getting full sunlight? Are you connected to shore power and if so is the voltage converter working? What is the actual battery voltage? What is the amp draw on your batteries? What do you have for batteries in terms of type, quantity and amp hour rating? If you have an inverter, I'm guessing you also have a residential style fridge. If so, the draw on your batteries will be substantial. Sorry if this seems like a lot of questions, but helping you with where to start isn't so simple without answers.

[Tduce]

Originally Posted by firestation12

More information would be helpful to assist you. What is the model and year of your trailer? "Pulling 1.9 amps", do you mean your solar system is supplying 1.9 amps? Do you have a system shunt that can cross check the solar controller readings? What is the voltage coming from the panels to the solar controller? What is the brand and amp rating of your solar controller? What is the wattage of your solar panels? Are you in a place where solar panels are getting full sunlight? Are you connected to shore power and if so is the voltage converter working? What is the actual battery voltage? What is the amp draw on your batteries? What do you have for batteries in terms of type, quantity and amp hour rating? If you have an inverter, I'm guessing you also have a residential style fridge. If so, the draw on your batteries will be substantial. Sorry if this seems like a lot of questions, but helping you with where to start isn't so simple without answers.

Ask away! I'm willing to answer anything to someone willing to help me learn. I am not new to RVs but I am very new to Solar panels and inverters. We have a 2022 Montana High country 351BH. It has the solar flex 400i package. The batteries I'm using are an optima blue top marine battery. I have 2 of them installed. CCA is 900, CA is 1125 Ah is 75. I tested each of them today while out of the trailer and they were both at 11.55 volts. There is NOT a residential fridge in the unit. I'm guessing that the solar panel or something else is not working because today it was in full sunlight and there was an error alarm from the inverter saying low battery. We had returned home for less than 24 hours where it had been plugged in to shore power for a few weeks and nothing was on other than the fridge. I have a Victron SmartSolar 100/30 and a Victron SmartShunt. The readings I mentioned came from those via bluetooth. Other than that I must say I don't know how or where to test for everything else.
I can't figure out how to upload a picture to the forum but the SmartSolar reading said
Solar
Solar 70W
Voltage 37.03V
Current 1.9A
Battery
Voltage 11.88 V
Current 5.7A
State Bulk
The Shunt reading was...
State of charge 100%
Voltage 11.75V
Current 1.98A
Power 23W
Consumed Ah 0.0Ah

I hope this info helps

[firestation12]

I see 2 immediate issues. First, your voltage converter is not outputting while it was on shore power. The voltage converter output should exceed 13 volts. Second, 70 watt output from the solar panel(s is pathetic for a 400 watt system. 1.9 amps X 37.03 volts = 70 watts. 5.7 X 11.75 = 67 watts .The math adds up close enough. 400 watts of panels rarely exceed 80% of their rating. 320 watts is what would be expected. As for the shunt, is it a Victron? Shunts are like a calculator keeping a running total of what came in and subtracting what left your battery. If you started with partially discharged batts you may get a reading of 100% of what it was to begin with. 37 volts is common output per panel. When they are in parallel, it’s hard to tell how many panels are working. In series configuration the voltage increases by 37 volts times the number of panels. Makes it easy to tell if one of the panels is offline. Check the parallel connections on the roof. Check the breaker to the voltage converter. Chk voltage on each side of the 50 amp 2 pole breaker inside the trailer’s interior breaker panel. With the info you’ve provided, others are sure to offer suggestions as well. The voltage converter should be outputting 13+ volts. Lastly I’ll just mention that batteries that have a cold cranking rating don’t make for the best performance when used as deep cycle duty. Golf cart batteries or lithium batteries are better choices. Hope to hear Bach from you with what you’ve found. Best regards JM

[Tduce]

Thank you for your advice. I will be sure to report back when I find the problem and a solution.

[Foldbak]

Do you know where your Victron charge controller is? Little blue box. There are 3 lights in the bottom right that indicate the charger state. If none are lite it's not charging.


If plugged into shore and batteries are not charging then there's another problem. Silly question...what position is the battery disconnect switch in?

[Tduce]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

Do you know where your Victron charge controller is? Little blue box. There are 3 lights in the bottom right that indicate the charger state. If none are lite it's not charging.


If plugged into shore and batteries are not charging then there's another problem. Silly question...what position is the battery disconnect switch in?

I can see the blue box and the light is on bulk mode.
The battery switch is in the on (green) position.

[PNW Fireguy]

Can you post your settings for the SCC and the shunt. They are obtainable by selecting the gear icon in the top right corner of your victron connect app. Also check the rotary selector switch on the bottom of the SCC and note what number it is set to.

[AZ Traveler]

Troy,

Are you running your refrigerator on electric or propane? If electric, you do not have enough solar to keep it running. Switch to propane, RV reefers are power hogs on electric.

[Tduce]

Originally Posted by PNW Fireguy

Can you post your settings for the SCC and the shunt. They are obtainable by selecting the gear icon in the top right corner of your victron connect app. Also check the rotary selector switch on the bottom of the SCC and note what number it is set to.

Attached are the settings. It’s all Greek to me.

[Tduce]

I did end up plugging it in over night and the batteries did seem to charge from that so that part may be okay but attached are my current readings and a picture of the solar panels at the time the readings were taken.

[Foldbak]

That looks correct. To AZ's question, do you have a residential fridge and if so are you running your refrigerator on AC?

[Tduce]

Thank you for the help everyone. Now that I know the batteries are full and there is good sunlight I will make sure my fridge is on gas only and unplug from shore power and see if it charges correctly. I’ll report back

[PNW Fireguy]

Your settings need some attention.

[PNW Fireguy]

Your settings need some attention. Your charged voltage is set at zero. The recommended value is .2v below your absorption voltage.

[Tduce]

Thank you. I have been doing some research on that today and will be sure to change the settings when I get home.

[Livermore]

Originally Posted by PNW Fireguy

Your settings need some attention. Your charged voltage is set at zero. The recommended value is .2v below your absorption voltage.

I think that PNW is on to something with regard to settings. But I am not an expert on the matter. That was an issue with mine from the factory.

Your solar panels will not be putting out charge, or very little, if your batteries are fully charged or your settings indicate/communicate to your charge controller that your batteries are fully charged.

IMO, Lithium works really well with solar, but I know these batteries are expensive. I have purchased many a lead acid battery over the decades and that has been expensive. I am hopeful to NOT buy batteries for 10-15 years now that I have Lithium.

[PNW Fireguy]

Originally Posted by Tduce

Thank you. I have been doing some research on that today and will be sure to change the settings when I get home.

Sorry I didn’t catch this earlier. I would also disable the start synchronized at 100%. That setting can really get you outside of the guardrails.

[ScaryPapa]

We also have a brand new Montana. Had similar experience, Panel says E01. The dealer hadn't turned on both battery disconnects. The upper one needs to point to the green. That connects the inverter.