3150RL Black waste gate valve

[TRPTDON]

Re: 2014 3150 RL.
My gate to my black waste tank recently won’t close anymore all the way. I’m not sure if something got jammed in the gate or if the rubber seal failed and buckled. I tried to back flush the tank with a gate valve w/ hose attachment without success so far. Also used a treatment to dissolve the jammed material if that’s what it is. I’ve since then just used a additional gate for all waste tanks. PS I have to keep my grey tank less than half full because it leaks when it gets above that level. I’ll have to address that soon as well.

How difficult is it to access the valve on the tank with the plastic like cardboard covering across the bottom below my tanks etc ? How expensive is it to have a professional shop do it?

[Carl n Susan]

Access to, and changing, the valves is relatively easy. Drop the coroplast (the plastic stuff on the bottom) by removing the screws starting at the rear edge of the dropped frame section. You only have to drop about 3' and you will have access to the valves.

Removing or replacing the valves is pretty straightforward. They are held in by 4 bolts. The problem is they are tight as they plumb and glue everything in place. There is no wiggle room. Sliding the new gate valve is *VERY* likely to displace the rubber gaskets and then you have a leak.

There are two techniques to make install easier. My choice is to cut a small section of the drain pipe after the Wye. This lets you wiggle the pipe to the valve. Use a rubber No-Hub to bridge the gap. This also allows the plumbing lines to flex and might prevent cracking the hub on the tanks.

The other technique is to use a ratchet strap to apply pressure on the plumbing line while you insert the new valve. Others here have done this and it seems to work.

Before you disassemble the valve, check the cable. Many time it has bound up with rust and corruption and is the cause of the problem. You can disconnect it from the valve and the convenience center wall and then disassemble it. You can then also operate the valve using a pair of vice grips to see if it is indeed stuck.

One last tip. If you are going to change the black tanks valve, put blocks under the wheels and then drop the nose. This will give you room to work underneath and avoid residual "stuff" flowing out off the tank.

Lastly do a Search here as many member have done this change.

[daveinaz]

Like Carl N Susan said, drop the coroplast and access the valves. Mine were also plumbed in to tight to remove the valve after unbolting it. Like him, I ended up cutting out about a 2” section of the pipe to get wiggle room and them fitted a rubber sleeve over the cut section to seal it all back up.

[Theunz]

I think I may have originated the ratchet strap idea 4 or 5 years ago. At any rate you only need about a quarter inch extra clearance after you remove the old valve. I could pull mine back by hand, but couldn’t hold it while inserting the new valve, thus the ratchet strap. You certainly don’t want to move it anymore than absolutely necessary. I’m adverse to creating new places for fluids to leak.
Finally, trash the crappy (pun intended) Bristol valve and replace it with a Valterra.