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Old 07-26-2006, 03:28 AM   #1
Gpa_Dick
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Hydraulic Selector Valves

For those of you that have the hydraulic selector valves option, does the slide you have the valve turned off still come out a little bit if you don't turn the "out" switch off soon enough?

It doesn't matter which slide valve is turned off, that slide will come out a little bit. Not sure if that is by design or if I have a problem with my selector valve.

I was hoping the slide would not move at all as I may be in a situation where I want to leave it in for a day or so and I don't want it out a couple of inches. The seals then are not in place.

Thanks for your input.
Dick
 
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:36 AM   #2
Glenn and Lorraine
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If I turn off the valve for the bedroom slide the bedroom does not move at all when I move the dining/livingroom slide and vice versa.
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:45 AM   #3
Gpa_Dick
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Thanks Glenn. It looks like I have a warranty issue. And I was sure to turn it off all the way but it is like it may not be closed all of the way. It creeps out a little after all of the others slide come out. Now is the time to find these things out.

Appreciate your help.

-Dick
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Old 07-26-2006, 04:08 AM   #4
richfaa
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The ones I turn off do not move at all and we use that feature here at the house all the time.
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Old 07-26-2006, 04:14 AM   #5
steves
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When turned off the slide does not move.
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Old 07-26-2006, 05:32 AM   #6
Broome101
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Same here they don't move if turned off.
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Old 07-26-2006, 07:21 AM   #7
pud2
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Mine don't move either.
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:12 AM   #8
Montana Sky
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Mine either.
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:31 AM   #9
Trailer Trash 2
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I dont have any movement when my valves are closed either. are you closing them all the way snug.
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:55 AM   #10
cargary
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Dick:
I just went out and checked ours. I turned all the valves in (or off) and went inside and activated the slide switch. I found that all the slides stayed in except the kitchen slide. This slide moved approximately 1/8" out on one side only. Apparently, we have a valve that is not completely closed or it is and it is allowing some hydraulic fluid to leak by the valve seals.
I don't think we'll bother with it as it doesn't open enough to cause us any problems and in light of the fact that we generally open all the slides up when we open up any.
Good luck with yours.
Gary & Carole
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Old 07-26-2006, 09:27 AM   #11
Cat320
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Hopefully Keystone will upgrade these valves to what the competition is doing...having an on/off switch inside the main panel inside the rig. Before deciding on a Montana...its four competitors all had the on/off switches, as standard.
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Old 07-26-2006, 09:51 AM   #12
Hemlockusa
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Mine stay in when closed also, First thing I did was to label them, so you could tell at a glance which valve controled which slide. I know now, but it is helpful if someone else has to control them. I think it would be a great feature if it were inside by the switch. Someone should put that on (WHAT YOU WOULD TELL KEYSTONE "MONTANA" IF YOU COULD)
OK Safe Travels to all

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Old 07-26-2006, 03:43 PM   #13
Native Tex
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Be sure you have them closed very snug. I have four valves and one of them is harder to close than the others. First time I used them I did not close it all the way and got a little movement. I realized my error and now after it is snugged, there is no movement. Happy RVing.
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Old 07-26-2006, 04:19 PM   #14
dieselguy
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I probably need to put a more detailed post on this over in improvements, but I thought it would add some info to this thread. Basically all the manual selector valves are ... are manual blocking valves. As my fiver is plumbed, when closed, they prevent hyd oil from being pushed out the slide cylinder on the rod end. This prevents pressurized oil from the pump from entering the cylinder on the piston end trying to open your slide. If your piston seal in the cylinder isn't sealing properly, it may cause the problem of the slide moving just a bit at the very end of the cycle as that's where the pressure would be the greatest. For about $400 or the price of the central vac, I installed a couple of 12 volt electric solenoid blocking valves in series with the manual valves. Competitors have this option and I cannot figure out why Keystone doesn't step up to the plate here. Going down in the forward storage compartment to turn the manual valves on and off as needed just seems pretty crude to me, but better than nothing. I made a small wooden switch box to match the rest of the fiver trim and wired a couple of lighted and labeled rocker switches in the closet by my entry door to block the movement of either my bedroom slide or kitchen slide on my 2980. With a flip of the switch I can operate any slide I want separate from the others which is handy accessing the fridge on a 2980RL while traveling. One point I might add is had I been plumbing the slide cylinders at the factory, I would have placed the blocking valves on the piston side of the cylinder and blocked any pressure going to the slide cylinder instead of blocking the return oil from being pushed out of the cylinder on the rod end, but it does work either way.
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Old 07-26-2006, 05:10 PM   #15
worknomore
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Most , but not all, of the other mfgr's that have separate interior slide switches use electric, not hydraulic, slides so it is much simpler (& cheaper) to have separate slide switches. Some, like Hitchiker, use both; bedroom is electric & main living/kitchen are hydraulic - at least on my inlaw's '06 Discover America.

I would like to see Keystone use the electric in the bedroom for 2 reasons: one, it would have it's own switch and, two, it would eliminate the problem of leaky hydraulic cylinders & oil on the bedroom carpet. There is always hydraulic pressure on the bedroom slide until ALL of the slides are deployed (if you don't use selector valves), hence more chances of leaking. Besides, that slide isn't big enough to warrant a hydraulic system anyway.
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Old 07-27-2006, 03:01 AM   #16
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Good fix Dieselguy. That would be one of my upgrades for my 2001 which does not have any control valves. I would have to separate the lines and run some new hose from the pump to two slides but it could be done. I would use the solenoid type valves like you did. Perhaps this winter I can get round to it? It would seem the valves should be on the pressure side like you said. Perhaps that would be a good question for Lippert?
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Old 07-27-2006, 11:14 PM   #17
MIMF2
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Dick,

Call me. You are right! You have a warranty issue. We need to change the IRC valve block. 866-524-7821 ext 4542.

Farmer Don and Dieselguy,

Bothsides of the pump are pressurized equally depending on which way the pump is rotating. The pump rotates one direction to send the rooms out and then rotates the other to bring them in. Unless something is wrong with the pump, it creates equal pressure at each port on the pump. I beleive the reason the IRC is put in the port that it is, is it would be a matter of convenience so you are not reaching thru the hoses to operate those valves.

I have wondered for a long time why Keystone is not building these units with the electric IRCs. Which means each room would be hydraulically operated and electronically controlled. You would then have a wall switch in the coach to operate each room any way you choose. It would add to the cost of the coach but, would be simple to do.

Gotta' get ready to head for the office. Talk to you all later.
Dale
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Old 07-28-2006, 02:31 AM   #18
richfaa
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MIMF-2 said.. "It would add to the cost of the coach but, would be simple to do." That's why Keystone does not do it and is one reason we can get such a good price on the camper...Cheaper to build,,,cheaper to buy.. It would be nice as a option...
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Old 07-28-2006, 03:30 AM   #19
drhowell
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Thanks for the explanation Dale.
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Old 07-28-2006, 05:16 AM   #20
Gpa_Dick
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Thanks Dale. I will give you a call today.

Wow is this forum cool or what?
-Dick
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