Gray tank handle comes off... - Montana Owners Club

dsprik · 10-04-2006, 11:04 AM

Looks like it was just barely screwed on and one pull too many today, while I was at a dump station, proved too much and I pulled the handle and 8 inch shaft off the last thread that apparently was holding it.

So... how do we get this back on. I have tried to blindly stabbing around to try and see if I could get extrememly lucky and hit the threaded end back up under the basement floor. No luck. Looks like I will have to unscrew the white flashing underneath and see if I can get my hand up in there.

Dropping the black belly panels will be a none issue there as the plumbing comes through that panel and it is all foamed where it comes out (done at the factory). Also adding to the problem on that particular panel is the gas line that is attached up tight underneath this panel. This makes for a nightmare at best and a impossibility at worse, pulling that panel on my 3400.

I just hope when I get ready to start working under there, that I can pull those white fender panels out far enough so that I can reach that threaded end up inside...

Any ideas/experience? We are over an hour from the nearest Montana dealer.

dbrill · 10-04-2006, 12:09 PM

The panel sounds just like the one on my Mountaineer. The first you drop it, it is a royal pain. Now I can do it in under 5 minutes. The pane will not drop completely, what you need to do is take the bolts out so you can drop the door side (where the gas line is). If you take the bolts out of the sides about 2/3 of the way across it will slide back over the gas line. There are also probably bolts under the aluminum skirt as well. Once you have it down on the one side you can get up in there and should be able to reach where you need to guide it on. For some reason my quickie flush pops off once a year so I do this annually. One thing that speeds it up is a cordless drill with a socket attachment. Hope this helps.

bsmeaton · 10-04-2006, 01:17 PM

Dave,
I just spent a full day in the belly running wiring. Wear a long sleeve shirt or you'll look like you had a fight with a thrasher machine like I do. The lower cowling is flimsy, but never gets totally out of your way. From what I could see under mine, you'll have to pull out the cowling and drop part of the black belly, as the valve is actually on the other side of the frame. I did drop the LP line down to get my arm in there, but I was careful with the flexing and fittings.

Also, be prepared for a bunch of junk to fall down on you, construction rubbish, rocks from the road, etc.

jrgwdenner · 10-04-2006, 01:20 PM

Dave, Glen has some experience with this problem and he agrees that you have to drop the black panel to access the area that you need. Sorry!

While on this subject, you might consider protecting these tank rods where they come through the frame. We're had one rod break due to continuous contact with the frame. Glen now has heavy tape around ours so that it doesn't break again from hitting the frame. Others have made these holes bigger and added a rubber grommet for protection. We addressed this problem on the factory tour.

OntMont · 10-04-2006, 01:40 PM

While it is true that you do have to drop the black belly cover to access the area, I know that several members, myself included, have managed to feel around with the rod and get it screwed back on. It takes a lot of patience, but it can be done, (at least on some units). Before going to all the trouble of removing the bottom, I would suggest giving it another try working blind.

However you get it back, consider putting some thread locker (Loctite) on the threads. Having gone through this, I now always give the handle a clockwise twist before pulling the rod.

Good luck!

LonnieB · 10-04-2006, 01:48 PM

OntMont, do they have left hand threads on them? Mine, all 3, are loose and I was just thinking about going out and tightening them up. I would have turned them clockwise and, if they have left hand threads,would have screwed them out.

bsmeaton · 10-04-2006, 01:51 PM

I'd be curious how the actually do tighten. I always turn mine a few turns clockwise for reassurance, but I can spin them forever and they don't tighten. Is there something else that allows them to rotate after the threads are set?

Brad

LonnieB · 10-04-2006, 02:26 PM

Good question Brad, maybe mine aren't loose at all, I just think they are because they turn freely.

OntMont · 10-04-2006, 02:35 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by LonnieB

OntMont, do they have left hand threads on them? Mine, all 3, are loose and I was just thinking about going out and tightening them up. I would have turned them clockwise and, if they have left hand threads,would have screwed them out.

That was a big OOPS! on my part. Don't know what I was thinking of... yes CLOCKWISE is right!

They screw into a coupling that is attached to the valve shaft. The valve shaft can rotate, so you can't really tighten then up without getting into the belly, hence, the Loctite suggestion.

bsmeaton · 10-04-2006, 02:39 PM

Thanks John,
I should have done that while I was up in the belly. Oh well, lotta shouldas.

Lonnie, guess we'll just keep givin em a few spins to make sure.

Brad

LonnieB · 10-04-2006, 02:52 PM

Thanks for clearing that up John, I guess it really wouldn't have mattered after all which way I turned them. Since the valve shaft rotates so freely I probably wouldn't have managed to unscrew them. BTW we all have our " blond " moments. Oops...hope the wife doesn't read this, LOL.

noneck · 10-04-2006, 03:15 PM

Ahhhh, Nice topic, My Monty had the Galley tank handle located just aft of the left rear tire. Now this doesn't seem to much of a bother until your in camp with the dinette, goucho slide out. Not fond of sliding under unit to pull drain valve. I installed a manual cable actuated valve and relocated handle to rear most point of slide. Here's what that valve looks like and is similar to the one you describe, difference is your's is straight line in no flex cable.
Hope this helps!
Chuck-n-Linda
Picture of fix

dsprik · 10-04-2006, 03:18 PM

Maybe I'll just drive 47.33 miles (Mapquest) to my nearest dealer. I am still on warranty... If I do, I'll have them loctite this.

bsmeaton · 10-04-2006, 03:23 PM

Chuck,

That's a super idea. Mine is in the same place and it's a pain in the keester. Looks like you had to drop a lot of the belly to get in there.

Dave,

I might agree with you. After a couple of days under there groping around, I would relax and take the drive to the Dealer to let them handle it. The only problem is how quick they will get it in.

Brad

indy roadrunner · 10-04-2006, 03:40 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by LonnieB

BTW we all have our " blond " moments. Oops...hope the wife doesn't read this, LOL.

What you gonna give me not to tell her????

LonnieB · 10-04-2006, 04:02 PM

Sorry Indy, too late

, but the good news is I'll probably get to stay in the Montana tonight, lol

.

noneck · 10-04-2006, 04:32 PM

Hi Brad,
Yes, had to drop two sheets to get at it and it still was a reach over a bit of the third but that one hangs over the axles and has the LP feed to the furnace so had no intention of pulling more. While I was in there I redressed the hydrolic lines away from top of the piston on rear cylinder with tie wraps. Also cleaned up the wiring bundle that runs in/out with the slide. Last thing was to relocate the 50 amp power connector from rear center to road side of coach so I get better alignment to various campgrounds which can have power stand rear of site or sometime mid-site, with the later being a big reach from rear.
Just recently went back under, pulled just rear belly pan to do a 2" Receiver install for new bike rack...this one is still in-progress in prep for my Oct trip to Fisherman's Memorial State Park in RI, next Friday. Ozz's config but my twist on his install was to add additional cross channel to allow long reach under rear cap.
Chuck

bsmeaton · 10-04-2006, 04:36 PM

Thanks Chuck,
When I get ambitious this winter, I'll get her done.

I noticed Montana changed the 50A to the side mid year 2003. I lucked out.

Good luck on the hitch -

Brad

fulltimedreamer · 10-04-2006, 05:54 PM

About three years ago, I had the T-handle and rod extension for the gray water tank fall off while going down the road. The next time I went to empty the tank - no handle. I picked up a T-handle at a RV dealer and used a threaded rod for the extension as the RV dealer didn't have the extension. I pulled down a couple of belly panels and added the extension and T-handle and used Locktite on all the connections. Three years later it's still on there. I do give a few clockwise turns to the other two T-handles at each use to hopefully prevent them from falling off too.

dsprik · 10-04-2006, 06:46 PM

I cannot lay on my back and reach up with my shoulders. Actually, I can - to a limited (and painful) extent. I'll make a phone call in the AM.

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