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Old 08-04-2019, 07:37 AM   #21
joe1047
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Fans in fridge

Ok thats good to know, thank you
 
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Old 08-04-2019, 01:47 PM   #22
tooth ferry
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Frig fans

My 2014 305 Rl dble door, I think Dometic 1350 frig came with 4 fans behind it but still struggled to cool properly. I looked in the top vent door and found that the space over the whole frig was not insulated at all and served as a large heat trap and the baffle for the " chimney" was non existent. I filled the area over the frig with insulation and made a baffle for the back with aluminum flashing to provide better air flow as closely to dimensions in the installation guide as I could. Dometic recommended more fans but I have not needed them since I did the insulation and baffle.
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Old 08-06-2019, 05:33 PM   #23
joe1047
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Fans in fridge

Ok guys, i got the fans today. What do you think the temperature should be set at to come on. Not sure what the factory ones come on at. I will buy a attic fan thermostat for the 2 new fans. Only want them to come on when it is needed.
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:13 PM   #24
beeje
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Looks like you bought the 110 volt ac fans. Set it low enough that they run most of the time. Not necessary but what the hell, you have hook ups.
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Old 08-06-2019, 07:04 PM   #25
Creeker
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I have our 12 volt fans set to kick on at 90. They kick off at 80.

120V AC fans are not ideal for those who are mobile or dry camp. But they
are better than nothing.
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:59 PM   #26
d1999aads
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Cooling

Quote:
Originally Posted by beeje View Post
Why go through all that. Just get the arp device with 2 fans. The fans simply zip tie to the removable exterior grills (one low and one high) Its all 12 volts. Protects the fridge from ever overheating causing a fire. Works weather you have shore power or not. The fans are thermostatically controlled to come on when needed.

FYI in some cases, with the fridge in installed on an angle, it may have to be removed to install the arp device. I think this situation is rare.
Hi, do you have a picture of what you did? I have ordered the fans and am excited to "make is simple"... Thanks
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Old 08-07-2019, 02:24 PM   #27
chapman
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I put a computer box fan in the rear bottom of fridg w a on off switch for power I went to the battery side of my solar regulator. Stays on while it’s day lite and turns off at nite. Been working great for 8 years.
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Old 08-07-2019, 02:35 PM   #28
wade
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If you have black exterior vent covers that pulls in alot of heat themselves if there in the sun. Put your hand on the black vents with the sun on them then do the same thing on a fellow camper near you with white ones. I had almost 30 degrees difference with my laser heat gun on a day that it was in the 90's. I wouldn't say that helps the issue any.
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Old 08-07-2019, 03:40 PM   #29
beeje
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d1999aads, I do have some pics, however if you go to the ARP device website, they have pretty good install instructions with pics. The hardest part is mounting the boiler tube sensor to the boiler tube (its pretty buried). You have to remove some insulation and possibly some metal shielding to get at it. Other than that its simply routing and hooking up wires, (power/ground/tube sensor/fan wires etc.

Don't quote me on the exact #s but, the stock set up lets the boiler tube get upwards of 800+ degrees. The ARP device shuts down power to the fridge at around 400 degrees. And will reintroduce power once it cools down.
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Old 08-08-2019, 06:30 AM   #30
d1999aads
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KemoLondon View Post
My OEM fans do not work well in hot temps. Did a mod by adding two fans in the fridge bottom vent compartment. Works great. Plugged the 110 into the outlet fridge is plugged.
So your install was mount the fans and the controller and plug in...Done? I like that one....
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