stuck black and gray tank valves

[Bill Queen]

Have I got a problem, it's almost impossible to pull the handles on the black and gray water tanks to drain the tanks. is there a simple way to lube the valve slides short of taking them apart. I saw a guy on youtube say that he dumps cheap canola oil into the tanks before he dumps. is this advisable or should I bite the bullet and spend hours upside down taking the valves apart. they are cable pull type valves in the belly of the beast. it will be a chore to accomplish thanks for you impute. Bill Queen

[watsonjones]

Not sure if you have the same problem as we had. Our black tank valve ceased up and I could not open it for anything. I was concerned I was going to shear off something trying to pull so hard. It turned out to have rusted closed due to the water line dripping on it. I was able to free it up by putting a screwdriver on it and using a wrench to turn the screwdriver. Once I had broken the seal I was able to pull the valve open. Since then I have applied WD 40 to the rod every time I dump.
If you are able to open the valve at all, it is a different problem. Our black tank valve is still stiff so I will be watching other replies with interest.

[Montana Man]

RV stores sell a valve lube you pour down the drains or you can concoct your own. Spray lube for the cable pulls sometimes helps.

If you end up taking the valves apart I would suggest replacing them all together while you are in there. Those pull handles look good on the showroom floor but fail in practicality. I replaced mine with direct pull valves. They have a solid rod which go through the frame to the handle.

[DQDick]

Over the years, the problem on ours has always been too long cables and no way to lube them. The fix, unfortunately, is to drop the belly and replace the cables with ones the proper length and since they are aftermarket probably better quality.

[speedster100]

Valterra has a kit, the originals won't get any better and will eventually seize where you can't move them. There is a link on this site to full directions on how to change the valves with the Valterra kit. The secret is flushing out the tank and then pulling the trailer up on some wood blocks to raise the back end. Then lower the front end down and no toilet or grey tank unpleasantries will leak out. Not a tough job at all, takes longer to lower the corroplast than it does to change out the valves. Once done though they will pull and close very easily with two fingers.... Good luck.

[beeje]

What they said. The only real fix is to replace them with Valterra valves and cables. Replaced ours 3 years ago and can still operate them with 2 fingers.

[RKassl]

Under warranty Keystone paid our dealer to remove both gray and black tank cables and replaced it with direct pull rods. The OEM cables NEVER worked and were a joke.

[Bill Queen]

here is the latest on the stuck valves. tried the dump the soap lube down the toilet and the shower. drove the fiver around to lube up the valves, tried for two days to see if it was to work. no go! so jack the fiver up, put down cardboard on the gravel and go to town upside down removing the belly coraply and disasembly of the BRISTOL valves. as soon as i loosened the four bolt and removed valve from side plates the handles pulled very easy. so go to town get new seals, spent two days dribbling silicone down the pull cables, put in new seals and wala, it's working well. so far. I think the valterra valves might be better but, and but is the issue, there is very little pipe coming out of the tanks to cut and remove BRISTOL flanges and then install Valtera flanges, and then re -pipe all down stream to final outlet of the system. right now i am leaving well enough alone and see if cables won't bind up. I got this down pat, pulling the coraply, removing the valves, I'll bet I can do it the next time in three hours and less the a half case of beer. love laying on my back, upside down wrenching on the fiver at 75. too all, keep your tanks lubed!!! Bill in a Montana somewhere in Montana

[Texan]

Hope it last but i think i would have gone all the way and changed out the valves to either Valterra valves or went with the cable rods as i did. I took both my cables out of the convenience center and ran the rods through the frame. My gray tank rod is on the driver side but i have the black tank rod on the curb side. Both rods are short . It's not as convenient having the black tank rod on curb side but this way it keeps the rod short and direct without having to deal with any cable whatsoever. I did install new Valterra valves. Good luck.

[beeje]

You don't need to change the flanges. The valterra valves will go right in. Part of the problem with the stock valves is the cables are probably too long and not secured along the way like they're supposed to be.

[Daryles]

I do what watsonjones does.
Lube the cables every time you dump.
I use PTFE (slide lubricant) with the straw. I pump the handles in and out as I spray it.
Hopefully this will keep water out so in the winter any moisture will not freeze the cable stuck.

[Charlie 3931fb]

Originally Posted by Daryles

I do what watsonjones does.
Lube the cables every time you dump.
I use PTFE (slide lubricant) with the straw. I pump the handles in and out as I spray it.
Hopefully this will keep water out so in the winter any moisture will not freeze the cable stuck.

We do the same but I use WD/40 white liteum grease with a straw and I lubed the cables with it the day we brought the trailer home. Then I spray them about once a month for maintenance.

[Eddiea]

Originally Posted by Bill Queen

Have I got a problem, it's almost impossible to pull the handles on the black and gray water tanks to drain the tanks. is there a simple way to lube the valve slides short of taking them apart. I saw a guy on youtube say that he dumps cheap canola oil into the tanks before he dumps. is this advisable or should I bite the bullet and spend hours upside down taking the valves apart. they are cable pull type valves in the belly of the beast. it will be a chore to accomplish thanks for you impute. Bill Queen

I put Dawn dish soap down toilet, let it set overnight, pulls easy

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by beeje

You don't need to change the flanges. The valterra valves will go right in. Part of the problem with the stock valves is the cables are probably too long and not secured along the way like they're supposed to be.

The Bristol valves on my Alpine had a wider bolt pattern than the Valterra brand and were not interchangeable.

[StageCoachDriver]

I oil the tank valve shafts every time i dump. Seems to help. I use a penetration oil.

[Rochester1949]

Mine have been a problem ever since I purchased my 2014 Montana 3100rl and every year they have gotten worse until I could hardly move them this spring. Tried WD40 on the handles and valve lubricant in the tanks. Finally both black and gray tank handles broke at the cable as I tried to loosen them after lubricating. Had both valves replaced 2 days ago and they are both amazingly smooth, so much better than they ever were when new. They must haven been installed improperly at the factory. Good luck!

[Texan]

Welcome to the forum. Hope you have many years of healthy and safe travels.

[beeje]

Originally Posted by firestation12

The Bristol valves on my Alpine had a wider bolt pattern than the Valterra brand and were not interchangeable.

Don't know what the difference is. My valterra valves bolted right into where the Bristols were

[Ml barber]

Montana has used 2 dissimilar metals creating a mil a volt current with out using some sort of dielectric seperation
Like plastic or rubber bushing. Best to free them up is oil and pliers . Get behind panel to wiggle cables and twist shaft handle is atatced to. The cable you will find is free. its where the handle nut and housing meet that are some what corroded form the current. After its free clean oil and push pull frequently. Leave oiled and half open when stored
Visit often
Montana's engineers should know better . Shame on there ignorance of electrolysis the less noble metal is acting as a cathotic sacrificial anode . Like the zinks on a boat .

[Ml barber]

No form of dielectric isolation between 2 dissimilar metals. The cables are fine. Its the handle shaft and the housing corroding and bonding . Just oil the push pull handle shaft where it enters the housing. Amd gently twist shaft uup.and back with vice grips. It wlil Give . Keep lubed cleaned and manipulated frequently. Leave half open and lubed in storage visit frequently and and move valves. Shame on engineers who didn't consider some form of dielectric protection .