UPDATE-Hot Water Heater Not working on Gas

[TheCoachPotatoes]

I'm having trouble with the hot water heater. It will heat on electric, but not on gas. When we turn it on we can hear something that sounds like a valve opening and we can hear it sparking, but then it cuts off after 15 to 20 seconds. Propane is full. Stove works and refrigerator works on gas. Both are after hot water tank. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thank, Al


UPDATE-PROBLEM IS NOW FIXED. WORKER B HAD THE SOLUTION. IT WAS THE ELECTRO MAGNET THAT OPENS THE GAS VALVE. IT WASN'T EASY LOCATING THE PART, BUT WE FINALLY GOT IT, AND IT IS WORKING GREAT. AGAIN THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR IMPUT AND ALSO WORKER B FOR HIS HELP IN LOCATING THE PART.

MOC IS THE GREATEST FORUM ON THE WORLD WIDE WEB!!!!

[ols1932]

Check for spiderwebs or dirt in the pilot tube. If just a slight bit of debris is in there it will prevent the spark from igniting the propane.

Orv

[Trailer Trash 2]

quote:Originally posted by ols1932

Check for spiderwebs or dirt in the pilot tube. If just a slight bit of debris is in there it will prevent the spark from igniting the propane.

Orv

I agree the same thing happened to me. I went to CW and bought there brush for that, and now I just leave it in the WH compartment, and brush it out every now and then.

[mcgiver2]

Sounds like its the thermal couple like was said before could be dirt dubbers build a mud nest on it

[TheCoachPotatoes]

I checked for dirt and spiders, etc. nothing found. It was working fine last night. This morning when I tried it, not working. Thanks for the suggestions. Any more ideas is appreciated.
Al

[mcgiver2]

you sure your not out of propane ?

[OntMont]

You say the sparker is clicking, so it should be working mechanically, but how about the electical side? Is there actually a visible spark at the burner? I have never had to look for it, but I would think that you should be able to see it at night quite easily. If there is no spark, then look for a loose or broken wire, or possibly a tiny piece of dirt on the sparker tip?

There is a tiny red LED between the pump and HWH switches. This should flash briefly while lighting, then go out. If it stays on, that indicates an igniton fault. (Which I guess you already know you have, but it might be useful to know if that light is staying on.)

[TheCoachPotatoes]

McGiver2
I'm using propane on my stove. My wife just cooked dinner on the stove. My refrigerator was on gas and working fine. I just got my tank filled yesterday.

OntMont
When I turn the switch on, light comes on. When I hear a click like something is opening, light goes off. Spark starts to happen and then clicks off again. I've loosed the flair nut at the valve and checked for propane and it's present at that point. I'm wondering if it's the electronic valve that's not functioning? Tomorrow the adventure continues.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[bw2]

A suggestion; turn off the electric switch on the WH. Drain the water out of the WH, about 1/2, let it refill with cold water. Then push the reset buttons.

I used this process this past winter when I opened up for our Florida trip and the gas would not ignite. This worked for me

[TheCoachPotatoes]

bw2
Thanks for the suggestion. I don't know where the reset button is? Can you help me there?

I just went out and checked as it's dark out, and could see a good spark. There is 12V power at the gas valve when it tries to ignite.

Yes, I tapped the valve!

[exav8tr]

Al, I just went thru this and had to replace the gas valve. First, you must have a demand for the heater to light, turn the system off(use the circuit breaker), run the hot water until you feel it going cold. Then, Go outside and look at the end of the gas tube and have the wife throw the switch, you should see the sparks at the end of the tube. this will tellyou the electrical portion is working correctly, If you see the sparks it should try three times before it shuts down and you would have to reset the breaker. If it cycles correctly, and you get gas on the out side of the gas valve, it is probably the valve itself. I went thru this with an RV tech and he replaced the valve and all has been fine since then.... It seems to be a fairly common problem with these dual heaters. I watched closely so I could do it myself next time......Hope this helps....

[TheCoachPotatoes]

Phil, I'm beginning to think that way myself. I've tried all the other tests, so I'm zeroing it down to that. Thank for your input!
Al

[WorkerB]

Al,
First turn off the switch that turns on the propane function of the water heater so it won't operate. Also turn off the 120 Volt switch to the water heater. There are two electro magnets on the gas valve. Each has two wires going to them. Disconnect the wires and using an Ohm meter measure the resistance between the two terminals where you removed the wires. Do this on both electro magnets. The readings should be similar. If one of the windings has gone open you will not get a reading on your Ohm meter. The entire valve replacement is about $100.00. The replacement cost for the electro magnet winding was about $17.00 a year ago. If that's the problem it's an easy fix. Those two electro magnets are what operate to allow the propane to enter the burner. Good Luck,
John

[TheCoachPotatoes]

I'll try that John. I understand what you are saying. However, if that is the case, where do I get the magnets from?
Thanks, Al

[bw2]

The reset buttons are behind the two black rubber grommets. These are high limit switches. Give them a try, after getting cold water into the tank.

[WorkerB]

My best guess would be a good RV store or possibly the local propane company. Whoever makes the gas valve could refer you to a provider. BTW, I referred to them as "Electro-Magnets" because that is their function but that may not be their correct name. If you have the documentation on the water heater it may describe the part and even the part number for ordering. Let us know how things turn out.
John

[TheCoachPotatoes]

WorkerB, you get the Gold Star for the day. I just checked it and it is the "Electro-Magnet". I am looking through my paperwork to see if I can find a part number. I'm sure the RV places will want to sell me the whole valve (more money). Thank you! thank you everyone for your input on this. I am so appreciative! This is the greatest forum because of the great people on here!!

Al

[alandaudrey]

Al,
Where did you end up finding the replacement magnet?

[WorkerB]

Hi All,
I have an update. Last January we had a camper with the same problem. We determined that the problem was the Electro Magnet. We bought one at a RV repair shop. After a little detective work I got in touch with the man that sold us the part. I told him Al was in New Orleans and I asked him for the info on the box so Al could order the part locally. The guy went on point and reluctantly gave me some numbers. Turns out they were bogus. AL called Quartzsite and got his part yesterday and is up and working but the guy blacked out any useful info. That means if you want the part you gotta go through this man in Quartzsite. I understand survival mode in this economy but......... Nevermind.
If you need the part here is the info.
Call Quality RV in Quartzsite, AZ. (928)927-3490 Ask for Monte. Tell him you need a 12 volt coil assembly for a gas valve. The part is made by White Rogers. Monte charges $18.90 + tax for a total of $20.62 + shipping.
I emailed Al this morning and asked him if there were any numbers on the coil. Armed with that we could call White Rogers and come up with a useful part number. For now we have to go through Monte for a coil for your Monty!!
Hope you find this info helpful.
John
Edit: Al reported in with numbers for the new and old coils. They are new coil # is 0805. The old coil # was 04175.

[kilch123]

WorkerB - thank you!

I called Montey at Quality (how ironic is his name???)
He doesn't take plastic, but it didn't take long for my check to get to him, and the parts to get to me!

He hooked me up, and now my water heater works on gas again!