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01-06-2011, 03:06 PM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tuscarora
Posts: 484
M.O.C. #10026
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My Major Mod.....W/D
OK, it has begun...adding a residential stackable w/d to a Montana that's not even prepped for a w/d. I knew for day one of owning this montana that I would eventually put one in, and I knew right where I wanted it. I posted pics on our blog, and you can follow it right along. Before anyone asks...It will have a separate drop to plug it directly into the 50 amp box outside. It's a 220 electric dryer.
Here's the link....
http://billnjudi.blogspot.com/
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01-06-2011, 03:34 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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This will be interesting to follow. Best of luck to you. It's so important to make the rig yours.
We're not at that point yet ... DW is not at all interested in getting a W/D installed and I am not going to encourage her in that direction.
__________________
2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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01-07-2011, 01:10 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
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I toyed with the idea myself.....but, those residential units suck too much juice to suit me. I looked at the new Maytags; 30 amps 240 volts. That's better than the one we have in the stick house. I suppose the new Energy Star has something to do with that.
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01-07-2011, 02:37 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Land O Lakes
Posts: 2,783
M.O.C. #10246
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The 220 dryer should make for much quicker drying! However, given the limited power supply we have to RVs, I will be very interested in following your progress with this project and how it ends up working for you...best of luck in getting all to come together with success.
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01-07-2011, 08:38 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 11,731
M.O.C. #5980
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Our 220 Dryers work fine, no amperage problems at all, mine pull less than 20 amps per leg. I have the Maytags you can get at Lowe's and Sears, we got them at Sears.
Wild Horse where did you get yours and what are they?
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01-07-2011, 12:52 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 2,351
M.O.C. #6831
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Bill after seeing what you have already done with your rig this will be interesting to follow.
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01-07-2011, 01:37 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Land O Lakes
Posts: 2,751
M.O.C. #7753
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We have the Bosch 240 volt units, not a problem and they use half the power the 120 volt units would. Been using them for two years now and they work great, wash takes 35 minutes, normal dry about an hour with a full drum. we try to do smaller loads as they dry faster and are less wrinkled. A normal load (2/3 max)will wash in 30 minutes or so and the dry in about 30 minutes. The sensor dry does it perfectly. Very few wrinkles...Dave
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01-07-2011, 02:27 PM
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#8
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tuscarora
Posts: 484
M.O.C. #10026
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I see no power issues whatsoever. I was willing to go to a gas dryer setup, but didn't want anything to do with a 110 unit. Ozz, this is a maytag.....slightly used, 225 bucks.
Placed the unit today, will work on building the custom face frame this weekend, then final hookups monday/tuesday.
added pic to my blog of the installed w/d.
see link below.
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01-07-2011, 04:46 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Land O Lakes
Posts: 2,783
M.O.C. #10246
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Ozz
Our 220 Dryers work fine, no amperage problems at all, mine pull less than 20 amps per leg. I have the Maytags you can get at Lowe's and Sears, we got them at Sears.
Wild Horse where did you get yours and what are they?
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Ozz, I am very good with wood and tile, but when it comes to plumbing and electricity, break out the yellow pages!
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01-08-2011, 12:04 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 703
M.O.C. #235
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I'm confused where do you get the 240 volts to run te dryer or did I miss something here? IS OUR 50amp plug in 220
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01-08-2011, 12:56 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 11,731
M.O.C. #5980
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by ragdoll
I'm confused where do you get the 240 volts to run te dryer or did I miss something here? IS OUR 50amp plug in 220
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Yes, you have a breaker box with two Buss bars inside, one has 120 volts, the other has 120 volts out of phase with the parallel buss bar. This is just like your home where you have 120 volt loads and 220 volt loads. All a person has to do is buy a 220 volt breaker and you can run a 220 volt appliance. There are many other factors that come into play, load balancing, total amperage draw and so on that should be addressed by an electrician, but a 220 volt dryer is very doable and really does not pull too many amps. About like having 2 more heaters going in the trailer.
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01-08-2011, 01:03 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 11,731
M.O.C. #5980
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01-08-2011, 01:16 AM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by ragdoll
I'm confused where do you get the 240 volts to run te dryer or did I miss something here? IS OUR 50amp plug in 220
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Jack and Lorraine,
Do not feel bad about being confused. The 240 volts application only work when plugged into 50amp service. And you have to specifically wire it in your power panel. It will not work when using a 30 amp outlet. The reason it does not work is the 30 amp feeds (single hot wire) is "Y" to both 50amp feeds.
For that reason I stayed with the 120 volt washer and dryer that will work on a 30 amp feed.
Good question.s
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01-08-2011, 02:10 AM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: K.C.
Posts: 11,731
M.O.C. #5980
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John, I haven't tried it, but my dryer would probably work on 30 amps. Depends on the control inside it, but I would bet a box of sugar donuts that it would heat, but on 1/2 power, just take twice as long to dry. I bet the only thing that is 220 is the heating elements, motor is 120 volts, most probably the controls also. I would have to look at the schematic.
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01-08-2011, 02:33 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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Ozz,
I am sure you are correct. The reason for my post is to alert those that do not understand the difference in the trailer wiring to a home. I post worse case so those that do not understand electricity don't get hurt. Mainly I try to make them aware that there are issues with doing it with 220. By issues I mean what you said. It may work but takes 2 to 3 times longer to dry.
I try to remember that our audience covers the full spectrum of experience levels.
Note: If the motor is wired for 220 then there is a bigger chance of damaging it. As you said with out opening it up and examining all the details we do not know.
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01-08-2011, 04:58 AM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Land O Lakes
Posts: 2,783
M.O.C. #10246
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by H. John Kohl
Ozz,
I am sure you are correct. The reason for my post is to alert those that do not understand the difference in the trailer wiring to a home. I post worse case so those that do not understand electricity don't get hurt. Mainly I try to make them aware that there are issues with doing it with 220. By issues I mean what you said. It may work but takes 2 to 3 times longer to dry.
I try to remember that our audience covers the full spectrum of experience levels.
Note: If the motor is wired for 220 then there is a bigger chance of damaging it. As you said with out opening it up and examining all the details we do not know.
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And I, for one, appreciate your post...as I have said, electricity is one of my many "short suits."
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01-08-2011, 05:39 AM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Ozz
John, I haven't tried it, but my dryer would probably work on 30 amps. Depends on the control inside it, but I would bet a box of sugar donuts that it would heat, but on 1/2 power, just take twice as long to dry. I bet the only thing that is 220 is the heating elements, motor is 120 volts, most probably the controls also. I would have to look at the schematic.
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I don't think it will work on the 30 amp adapter. Both sides of the element will have 120 volts of the same phase which will equal no current flow.
The GFCO 50 amp panel we have is not set up for 240 volts. The only two pole single throw breaker is the one in the middle, which serves as the main. The left and right buss are different phases. I am told the Iota panels are different.
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01-09-2011, 09:21 AM
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#18
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 703
M.O.C. #235
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Thanks everyone I understand what you are doing now.Jack
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01-12-2011, 02:56 PM
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#19
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tuscarora
Posts: 484
M.O.C. #10026
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OK, we've been delayed a bit with the passing of our dear best friend, Lightning. Slowly getting back on track now. If you look at our blog, I posted the before/after pics from the living room.
blog listed below.
Thanks,
Bill
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01-19-2011, 01:56 AM
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#20
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tuscarora
Posts: 484
M.O.C. #10026
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I've attached a pic of the wiring I did to have 220 for our stacked w/d. Hope this helps clear up some of the confusion.
DISCLAIMER: A Licensed Electrician was consulted on this. Anyone attempting this or something similar absolutely needs to do so as well.
I used 6/3 with ground to bring power from pedestal into basement, where I mounted a 4 space main lug box. You will note that the box is mounted upside down. This was done simply because of the way the wiring routed easiest, and drilling the least amount of holes. As long as the breakers click side to side, it's a nonissue. Only one hole was drilled for this, a 7/8" hole from basement into propane tank cab. The wire is stored in the propane cabinet, and is easily fed out the exposed bottom to plug into pedestal.
Here's the box mounted.
Here's the electrical.
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