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Old 11-29-2020, 05:51 PM   #21
Empty Nest
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Check for EGR cooler seal failure as well. No external signs of coolant loss.
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Old 11-29-2020, 09:02 PM   #22
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This sounds very similar to the symptoms I had in my 2008 F-250 diesel when the head gaskets failed.
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Old 11-29-2020, 10:19 PM   #23
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Head gasket failure is pretty rare on the 6.7. Donít borrow trouble when you donít need to.
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Old 11-30-2020, 08:38 AM   #24
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Okay. I just purchased some coolant so I will start there making sure everything is topped of. Along with that I will use my code reader (I forgot I had one, jeez) and see if anything shows up. The engine sounded the same and the fan appeared to be working okay. I did not check for hose collapse - I will look at that. Looks like this weekend could be busy. Thanks for the help. I will get back with the results in a coupe of days so we will know what worked or didn't and go from there. Thanks again and you guys have a great Thanksgiving and stay sage.
I had the top hose collapse on my 15. So I replaced the cap on the degress bottle and it didnt matter. So I talked to my diesel guy at my dealer and he said not to worry they all do that. I have not had a problem with the hose.
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Old 11-30-2020, 10:12 AM   #25
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I had the top hose collapse on my 15. So I replaced the cap on the degress bottle and it didnt matter. So I talked to my diesel guy at my dealer and he said not to worry they all do that. I have not had a problem with the hose.

Amazing! And by a dealer's 'tech' He is partly correct in that it is a common problem. That hose is now physically damaged once it collapses. Once, probably still ok, kinda. More often - not good



I replaced the collapsed hose on mine which had stress cracks in it and the two caps. No more collapsed hose as that primary radiator cap actually releases over pressure and wont let a vacuum form. Might want to talk to another diesel tech. The removed hose from mine was like mush compared to the replacement
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Old 11-30-2020, 03:13 PM   #26
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We haven’t heard any results on this thread.
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Old 12-01-2020, 07:54 AM   #27
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In the many years of twisting wrenches, 40+, that sounds like a stuck thermostat. I would change that first, then I would Back flush heater core if thermostat didn't fix heat problem. Just disconnect heater hoses going to firewall. Then take garden hose and run water thru core, one way then the other until water flows both ways and runs clean. Just an opinion, Happy Trails
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Old 12-01-2020, 08:47 AM   #28
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In the many years of twisting wrenches, 40+, that sounds like a stuck thermostat. I would change that first, then I would Back flush heater core if thermostat didn't fix heat problem. Just disconnect heater hoses going to firewall. Then take garden hose and run water thru core, one way then the other until water flows both ways and runs clean. Just an opinion, Happy Trails

Not exactly easy or inexpensive project on a 6.7 Ford to 'shotgun' approach. $50 primary and $8 secondary thermostats, 5 gallons of coolant at $30+ each for Motorcraft. Running a stream of water through the heater via garden hose wont work - valves and hose locations. DIY antifreeze/thermostat change out on a 6.7 takes a special tool to ensure that the system is full with no air trapped, i.e. this one https://www.amazon.com/Schwaben-0034.../dp/B01DFMWH7S. It can get really expensive if a DIY doesn't do his homework. It's a significant project just to open the secondary drain though the primary radiator is in plain sight
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Old 12-01-2020, 09:37 AM   #29
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Is the truck actually overheating? It could just be the connection to the temp sensor. If the truck gets hot it will go into limp mode and if it get hot enough it will just shut down.
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Old 12-01-2020, 10:39 AM   #30
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Don't know how these newer engines work. But in the "old days" a stuck closed thermostat would stop water flow to the radiator, but did not stop water flow thru the engine and heater. The engine would likely over heat, but the heater would continue to put out warm air.
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Old 12-15-2020, 11:45 AM   #31
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This sounds very similar to the symptoms I had in my 2008 F-250 diesel when the head gaskets failed.
I thought the same thing. My 6.0 had the exact issue as described and it was headgasket. That being said, I know own a 6.7 and I DON'T want this to be true!
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Old 12-17-2020, 02:03 PM   #32
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Well, with Ford specific coolant, I filled the tank and sure enough everything worked great. I did discover a leak. Looks like in the water pump. Took it to the shop yesterday and they got under it and check a few other things, hoses, etc. and confirmed that they also thought it was the water pump. Ugh. Hope to get my truck back in a few days. Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
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Old 12-17-2020, 02:23 PM   #33
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Well, with Ford specific coolant, I filled the tank and sure enough everything worked great. I did discover a leak. Looks like in the water pump. Took it to the shop yesterday and they got under it and check a few other things, hoses, etc. and confirmed that they also thought it was the water pump. Ugh. Hope to get my truck back in a few days. Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.

As long as they are getting that deep, suggest a new drive belt and possiblY A new pensioner. They are a bear to replace on 6.7 with the radiator in place
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Old 12-17-2020, 04:04 PM   #34
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I agree with Dave. No need to have the front of your truck apart and not replace everything that might go bad. It’s better to replace now than on the side of the road.
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Old 12-17-2020, 07:54 PM   #35
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Don't forget to change the plugs, points, and condenser .....
Remember those good old days??
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Old 12-18-2020, 05:45 AM   #36
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Check your radiator. I had to replace mine 2 months out of extended warranty. The sides are plastic and notorious for cracking and leaking. I have a 2014 F350, but model years from 2011 up are supposed to be effected by the cheap radiators.
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Old 12-18-2020, 09:22 AM   #37
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i have a 2015 which overheated suddenly in denver. told it was the radiator, $1600.
overheated when leaving denver....in tucson spent another $1500. They switched out a relay in the line, still not right...end result was the clutch.

Turned out to be the clutch was working.....


I, for the heck of it put another low temp thermostat in it.
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