LANDING GEAR/STABILIZER OUTSIDE SWITCHES

[jackel1959]

The Landing Gear and Stabilizers only working with the remote control and not with the outside manual switches has been a topic of discussion here lately. When ours stopped working "zman08" directed me to a post that solved our problem. It involved removing the ground for the manual switches from the remote receiver and grounding it to the chassis. Apparently there is a "failsafe" circuit to keep the user from using the remote switches and the manual switches at the same time. The connections on the receiver in the front compartment only effect the landing gear and stabilizer switches. The failsafe will not provide a ground to the manual switches when the remote system is energized and will sometimes get "locked" in that position. That is what happened to ours. Like I said, I just moved the ground from the receiver to the chassis and everything works again. You can replace the receiver module, but I think Lippert wants around $150-$200 for it and it will probably just fail again. Our rig is out of warranty so this was the best economical fix for us. I have included a couple of photos of where the wires are for the manual switches and where I moved the ground to.

Jack

Manual switch wires "To Manual Switches"


Where the ground was relocated to

[OrangeCrate]

So, you just connected the (-)Power terminal post on the rcvr module directly to chasis ground??

[jackel1959]

Yes, that is all I did and all works as it should now.

Jack

[HOOK]

Tried the -power wire to chassis gnd., didn't work. Ran hot from batt. to hot post on manual switch, worked . Removed hot and checked connections and now working. Just a bad connection. Larry

[7.3Ford]

I had all kinds of problem 3 years ago. They replaced the control board, and it worked fine, until I got home, and it quit again. I did fine the solution was to kill the power to the control unit and turn it back on reset everything and it work again. Since I had so much problem with it, I put an manual circuit breaker on the the ground, so I could reset it quickly.



Later I replaced the auto reset breaker with manual one, and have not had any more problems.

[gelswick]

Just a blown fuse, it is not shown in the first picture at the top, but on mine is hanging right in front of the panel.

[Garpo]

I know this is an old topic but the same problem recently manifested itself in my 2011 Montana High Country 333DB. As you can see in photo #1, my board is different than the one shown by the OP. In addition, my board has no identification printed on it. So, I can only guess that it is the two isolated connections on the top left. The white wire is grounded to the frame and the black wire terminates to the connection shown in photo #2. Do I dare disconnect the black wire from the board and move it to the frame?

Any help will be appreciated because working with electricity is not my strong point.

[snfexpress]

No! That is Hot! It is the positive 12 volt side.

In our rigs, solid white is ground (negative), solid black is hot (positive), and white with a stripe of color (such as blue, purple, etc.) is also hot.

Also, in looking at photo #1, I would clean the terminal where the black wire connects to it.

[Garpo]

Okay, I won’t mess with the black. So, any suggestions on which one of those tangled mess of wires do I move?
BTW, to make a long story short and avoid further embarrassment, that’s not dirt or corrosion it’s just a dab of plumbers putty on the surface of the screw head.

[Garpo]

quote:Originally posted by snfexpress

No! That is Hot! It is the positive 12 volt side.

In other words, I need to find the two wires dedicated to the manual switchs and move the ground wire (white) to the frame. I’m thinking (dangerous)that they may be the ones on the top right of the board.

[snfexpress]

The ground looks to be the solid white wire to the left of the aforementioned black one.

[Garpo]

I'll give it a try. I don't think I'll do any damage just moving the ground wire.

[Garpo]

I moved the ground wire to the frame but the rocker switches still don’t work. For now I’m stuck with using the remote control to work the slides and landing gear/stabilizers until I can get this annoying inconvenience fixed.

[pineranch]

Garpo,
Check to see if you have a inline fuse going to the switch.
Mike

[Garpo]

quote:Originally posted by pineranch

Garpo,
Check to see if you have a inline fuse going to the switch.
Mike

No inline fuse, just blade type ATO fuses.

[harvey-robertson]

Garpo,
I have a 2011 High Country 343RL with the same control board as your picture. My toggle switch for the front landing gear does not work (will work with the remote) but the rear jack works with the toggle switch and the remote. I have completed the following: replaced the toggle switch, disconnected / re-connected the power to the control board, moved the ground wire from the right set of connections in your picture directly to the trailer frame and still have the same issue.
Have you resolved the operation of your toggle switches? If so, how did you do it?
Thanks Harvey

[Garpo]

quote:Originally posted by harvey-robertson

Garpo,
I have a 2011 High Country 343RL with the same control board as your picture. My toggle switch for the front landing gear does not work (will work with the remote) but the rear jack works with the toggle switch and the remote. I have completed the following: replaced the toggle switch, disconnected / re-connected the power to the control board, moved the ground wire from the right set of connections in your picture directly to the trailer frame and still have the same issue.
Have you resolved the operation of your toggle switches? If so, how did you do it?

Thanks Harvey

Sorry Harvey, I've been offline for awhile. I still haven't resolved the problem - tried all suggestions but none work. For now, I've just resigned myself to using the remote.

[Irlpguy]

Garpo it would appear that either the Black wire on the left or the Green wire on the right in the center of the picture would be the 12V supply to the receiver. If you pull the fuse on the Green wire can you still turn on the receiver with your remote? If not then that is the receiver power. The receiver should have a red LED that comes on when it is on and you will likely hear an audible click as a relay also comes on.

If the Green is the supply voltage, then with the fuse back in place and the receiver “off” do you have 12V at the Black wire to the left in the center of the picture. If you do then that would tell me that is the power to the manual toggle switch, because nothing else should be energized through the receiver until you depress a button on the remote.

Now turn “on” the receiver with the remote and check for voltage at that same Black terminal. Although my receiver is different than yours I have voltage on the remote switch terminals whether the receiver is on or off and my toggle switches work with the receiver on or off and at the same time. There must not be a failsafe circuit in my receiver as was mentioned earlier.

I would determine the above first and then proceed to the next stage of investigation.

[akf15e]

Rather than post a new thread, I thought I'd ask for some help on this one too. My issue is the rocker switch for the landing gear on my 2009 3400 will not work, NOR does the slideout rocker switch inside the camper work NOR will the rear stabilizer switch at the rear of the rig.So ALL 3 manual rocker switches are dead, whether or battery power or 30 amp. The remote will move all of them just fine. I tried moving the ground wire for the manual switches as suggested, but that did not fix it. I have disconnected and reset power to the receiver module. The only fuse I see in the entire battery/front compartment is a single 15 amp blade fuse, which is not blown. I do not see the 30 or 40 amp fuses people refer to so much and have looked everywhere.

Any ideas? Thanks.

[Aviator]

Originally Posted by jackel1959

The Landing Gear and Stabilizers only working with the remote control and not with the outside manual switches has been a topic of discussion here lately. When ours stopped working "zman08" directed me to a post that solved our problem. It involved removing the ground for the manual switches from the remote receiver and grounding it to the chassis. Apparently there is a "failsafe" circuit to keep the user from using the remote switches and the manual switches at the same time. The connections on the receiver in the front compartment only effect the landing gear and stabilizer switches. The failsafe will not provide a ground to the manual switches when the remote system is energized and will sometimes get "locked" in that position. That is what happened to ours. Like I said, I just moved the ground from the receiver to the chassis and everything works again. You can replace the receiver module, but I think Lippert wants around $150-$200 for it and it will probably just fail again. Our rig is out of warranty so this was the best economical fix for us. I have included a couple of photos of where the wires are for the manual switches and where I moved the ground to.

Jack

Manual switch wires "To Manual Switches"


Where the ground was relocated to

Thanks Jack - you're a lifesaver! I have a 2009 Monty 3665re. Yesterday (Jul 19, 2017) the landing gear and rear stabilizers died. All fuses were OK. I couldn't get to the manual negative wire without pulling the entire "brain" so I simply cut the wire midway between the "brain" and the crimped wire nut junction. I used a butt splice, a 1 foot piece of #10 stranded automotive wire (could use #12) and a yellow ring terminal with a 1/4" hole in it to make an extension wire. After crimping the wire ends together with the butt splice, I connected the ring terminal to the existing grounding point above the "brain". Then the acid test - press the manual landing gear switch. WOW! Motor purred like a kitten! Your fix (or someone else that gave you the idea) turned what looked like a very complex problem into a super easy solution. Thanks again.

Aviator Don