Sudden unusual crack in fiberglass wall

[LeePat]

We just finished a 2 year rebuilding, replacing & updating our 2006 Montana 3500rl we bought from a private owner. We were clueless but now we know it inside & out.

A week ago we hired a company to cut & buff the fiberglass so we have been looking at the surface a lot since it was totally botched. (Different issue. :facepalm) This am we saw a curving crack that runs in an arc from one edge of a side wall around to the adjacent wall - not straight in a direction.

Any ideas how to trouble shoot or resources to research? Not sure of the depth yet.

Note. We are full time & stationary. It has not been moved since locating here.

[BB_TX]

A picture(s) of the crack would certainly help on suggestions.

[LeePat]

Just added a photo to my post. My husband said he couldnt get it to show in a smaller photo. It’s near the exterior LED flood light.

[Carl n Susan]

A picture from further away to show where the crack is relative to any nearby openings will also help.

[LeePat]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

A picture from further away to show where the crack is relative to any nearby openings will also help.

Added. Hope the second helps. They are actually 2 cracks that pass! Not one after all.

[Foldbak]

I don't know of any easy quick fix. Fiberglass repair is a painstaking process. At least you're parked, so it shouldn't get worse. If you're not concerned about aesthetics I'm sure there's a sealant you can pit on it. At the very least seal it to keep the moisture out. They make fiberglass tape water activated or you could brush on some flex seal.
https://flexsealproducts.com/collect...QaAo71EALw_wcB

[LeePat]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

I don't know of any easy quick fix. Fiberglass repair is a painstaking process. At least you're parked, so it shouldn't get worse. If you're not concerned about aesthetics I'm sure there's a sealant you can pit on it. At the very least seal it to keep the moisture out. They make fiberglass tape water activated or you could brush on some flex seal.
https://flexsealproducts.com/collect...QaAo71EALw_wcB

We hope to resale in a few years & was working on aesthetics. This is insult to a long injury. Most concerned if it’s an indication of a structural issue underneath. We learned the hard way we can’t assume anything.

[Mikendebbie]

I tried to trace the crack by blowing up the photo. I can’t tell where the crack dies up by the scare light. Did you check the other side for a similar crack?

Just curious - have you “walked” the cap joint up on the roof to see if you can feel movement? I don’t mean for you to jump up and down on it - but put one foot centered on the cap joint with the other foot firmly on the roof. Take a step and put a bit of weight on the cap joint. Do that taking sort of baby steps all the way across the joint checking for movement, then turn around and walk back the same way. Don’t step off onto the fiberglass - it is not meant to support any weight.

This crack looks to me like the cap and some associated framing shifted forward. Be warned - I’m really just thinking out loud. I have no experience with this situation.

[wed]

Send some more photos

[LeePat]

They are clearly cracks, not scratches. . Can’t find any structural issues in the propane bay. More concerned about continued damage from structure than cosmetics. Don’t even know whom to call.

[twindman]

I had a 2006 2980 model. It has a very similar bedroom area. I had frame flex (the old really bad kind) and had broken welds in the front area. These were right where the cross beams at the lower front are welded to the vertical beams.


In those days, you could tell if this has happened by looking at the closet. I forget which way was which, but when hooked up (or off the truck and on the landing gear) the closet wall between the W/D or storage area and the clothes closet would bulge our - in my case an inch or more. Then when you hooked up (or unhooked- which ever was the opposite) it went away.


In my case I was traveling from AZ to Alaska and it got bad enough in Oregon and Washington I decided to get it fixed. I called the dealer in Tacoma(?) I think it was. The service manager - first said bring it in (on a Mon. or tues) and we can get it checked on Friday. And if there is something wrong it would be a couple of weeks!!! The real kicker - he said 'I have never heard of frame flex'. (I had picked that term up here on the forum when searching) So I crossed my fingers and slowly returned home and got it fixed in AZ.


So get that truck and hook up to take weight off landing gear and you will know if you have a structural problem. Good luck.


p.s. I was one of the first with this, I guess. Then on my 2013 Mountaineer it happened again on both the front end and the read end (rear wall sort of detaches!). That one cost me $5000 or so!

[Foldbak]

That's a gel coat fracture. I've seen it happen on boats. I don't think it's structural.



Fiberglass will break down over time for one of several reasons. The sun's heat and ultraviolet rays can eventually cause fiberglass to get brittle. If the gel coat surface is cracked or damaged due to impacts or vibrations, water seeps in through the cracks and damages the structure

[steiny93]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

That's a gel coat fracture. I've seen it happen on boats. I don't think it's structural.

Fiberglass will break down over time for one of several reasons. The sun's heat and ultraviolet rays can eventually cause fiberglass to get brittle. If the gel coat surface is cracked or damaged due to impacts or vibrations, water seeps in through the cracks and damages the structure

Foldbak is correct, it's a crack in the gel coat.

Was this area repaired? Or is this a factory only area?
You can get cracks in gel coats via bad repairs. Frame flexing will cause a larger failure ditto with an impact failure.

This wasn't caused by a cut and buff during detailing.

[bcrvman]

Originally Posted by LeePat

We just finished a 2 year rebuilding, replacing & updating our 2006 Montana 3500rl we bought from a private owner. We were clueless but now we know it inside & out. Attachment 14261

A week ago we hired a company to cut & buff the fiberglass so we have been looking at the surface a lot since it was totally botched. (Different issue. :facepalm) This am we saw a curving crack that runs in an arc from one edge of a side wall around to the adjacent wall - not straight in a direction.

Any ideas how to trouble shoot or resources to research? Not sure of the depth yet.

Note. We are full time & stationary. It has not been moved since locating here.

I don't think it's a crack, it looks more like a scratch. BUT if it is a crack, then immediately stop its progress by drilling a small hole at the ends of the crack. Now you need to consider how to deal with it. I had one and used a special formula, epoxy that has some flex in it. It looks like hell, but it will never break there again.
Hole size? big enough that the crack doesn't go around it, roughly 3/16 but +- 1/16 should be ok.

[JimKrieger]

Originally Posted by LeePat

We just finished a 2 year rebuilding, replacing & updating our 2006 Montana 3500rl we bought from a private owner. We were clueless but now we know it inside & out. Attachment 14261

A week ago we hired a company to cut & buff the fiberglass so we have been looking at the surface a lot since it was totally botched. (Different issue. :facepalm) This am we saw a curving crack that runs in an arc from one edge of a side wall around to the adjacent wall - not straight in a direction.

Any ideas how to trouble shoot or resources to research? Not sure of the depth yet.

Note. We are full time & stationary. It has not been moved since locating here.

I have your same 2006 3500RL - . The finish on your exterior wall impressed me. Can you tell me anything about it - what is it, how did you get it? Also interested in any work you may have done refurbishing any graphics. Thanks.

[Jetson]

That is called crazing. It is not structural. You can search for "crazing in fiberglass" to see how it is repaired.

[Theunz]

I wouldn’t even think of taking it to a RV dealer for the fiberglass repair. Look for a shop that does fiberglass repair on large boats. I suspect there are plenty in Florida.

[dieselguy]

Don't take my following thoughts the wrong way as I've owned 3 different Montana's since 2000 with a mostly satisfied experience with an older model as well. The exterior walls are bonded layers of Luan (paneling) and (Fillon maybe .080" or less thick), not true fiberglass per say. As has been shown, there is a metal framework inside with 2 more layers of Luan paneling bonded on the inside. Back in the 06 timeframe, there were the Filon walls that you have with the fibers very visible and there was an option for high gloss walls basically produced with thicker gelcoat. No more evident than your "crack" is, I'd leave it alone save drilling the endpoints with a 1/8" drill bit. The Filon you have has lotsa fiber showing and a repair will be pretty evident as the repair area will not show the same fiber just under the surface. This is a 17 year old fiver that had the less than desirable decals that faded and curled early on. You can see the "ghosts" of the old decals in your example photo. They cannot be buffed out. You've admittedly stated 2 things ... there were lotsa undocumented surprises from the first owner and you're looking to sell in a few years. I'd not loose much more sleep over this "crack" ... keep it shined up to your satisfaction and let the next owner deal with whatever they feel necessary.

[jimcol]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

Don't take my following thoughts the wrong way as I've owned 3 different Montana's since 2000 with a mostly satisfied experience with an older model as well. The exterior walls are bonded layers of Luan (paneling) and (Fillon maybe .080" or less thick), not true fiberglass per say. As has been shown, there is a metal framework inside with 2 more layers of Luan paneling bonded on the inside. Back in the 06 timeframe, there were the Filon walls that you have with the fibers very visible and there was an option for high gloss walls basically produced with thicker gelcoat. No more evident than your "crack" is, I'd leave it alone save drilling the endpoints with a 1/8" drill bit. The Filon you have has lotsa fiber showing and a repair will be pretty evident as the repair area will not show the same fiber just under the surface. This is a 17 year old fiver that had the less than desirable decals that faded and curled early on. You can see the "ghosts" of the old decals in your example photo. They cannot be buffed out. You've admittedly stated 2 things ... there were lotsa undocumented surprises from the first owner and you're looking to sell in a few years. I'd not loose much more sleep over this "crack" ... keep it shined up to your satisfaction and let the next owner deal with whatever they feel necessary.

Dieselguy, Very sage advice. Hope the OP uses it.

[mlh]

I have an issue with the word sudden. It just showed up after the “totality botched” cleaning job. Did the person that buffed it get it too hot or was the crack already there and you just hadn’t been it or looked close enough to notice?
Lynwood