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Old 10-01-2019, 04:26 PM   #1
Goffergasser
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Dometic Refridge Not Working

I have replaced control board in my Dometic refridge and it still doesn't function. I tested for AC voltage on the DC supply and got a wopping 26vac. I assume that is "ripple" voltage and comes from the converter. Is there a workaround in connecting the voltage from the converter to a different source on the converter or do I have to purchase another converter?
 
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Old 10-01-2019, 04:53 PM   #2
Carl n Susan
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I am not an expert on electricity, but 26V AC on a DC circuit doesn't sound right. Why measure the AC volts? What is the DC voltage and where are you measuring it? The output side of the converter or the batteries is my preference for measurement points.
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Old 10-01-2019, 08:47 PM   #3
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If you open the outside panel, you'll see a terminal block (usually on the bottom left). Check for 12 volts DC.

If you have 12 volts, check if you have heat on either ac (if you are plugged in), or propane. You can check by feeling sheet metal on the right, about a foot above the bottom...be careful, if it's been running awhile it could be very hot.

Post your results.
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Old 10-02-2019, 07:14 AM   #4
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Model # of your fridge would help ... a pic of where you measured 12vdc at would help...

If plugged into shore power unplug... make sure battery disconnect is not engaged...

Measure DC at control board module supply points... you need DC voltage regardless of shore power so that the eye brow control panel on fridge will function allowing it to control the module..

I’d DL the service manual ... if you haven’t already done so and use it as a step by step TS aid

Pic of Dometic control board wiring TS section... typical.. My Dometic RM1350
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Old 10-02-2019, 09:09 AM   #5
Goffergasser
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I measured the ac voltage per a link that went through the test procedure for the board where it said to use a digital meter to do so. I did have 12.3vdc on the terminal you’re saying.
They said that the ac voltage shouldn’t exceed 2.5 volts or something like that.
Thanks for your information.
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:42 AM   #6
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You will have 120 volts AC on control board terminal and its sole purpose is to provide electricity to the flu heater element to allow fridge to work on 120 shore power.

All other DC readings will be 12 VDC ... I’d you aren’t reading voltages as above then either you have something wired wrong or have other issues.
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:44 AM   #7
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Either an analog or DVM will do the job to
Measure both AC and DC provided the correct mode is selected on the meter. Some better DVMs are auto sensing
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Old 10-03-2019, 12:31 PM   #8
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Thanks ChuckS, I will recheck the voltages and go from there.
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Old 10-03-2019, 12:39 PM   #9
mazboy
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call and talk to these guys.
https://www.rvcool.com/
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Old 10-17-2019, 09:21 AM   #10
zwma6@aol.com
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My camper brother...….my fridge was NO GOOD when I bought my 2008 MONTANA 38' .. I pulled it out and STRAIGHT to the metal DUMP ! (recycle place) MAGIC CHEF makes a BEAUTIFUL 10.1 CUBIC foot fridge that's HUGE inside. It fits PERFECT w tiny space on ALL sides .. HOME DEPOT wacked me 400 clam$ USA money. But it goes on sale for 365.
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Old 10-17-2019, 06:55 PM   #11
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Thanks so much for your idea. My brother in law suggested the same thing to me last summer. Maybe it pays to listen to your in-laws! I think that I will go in that direction.
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