I have had several folks inquire about my leveling system and suggestions to post some information. Maybe it will make for good discussion. Computerized leveling systems are expensive. However, since we cannot stand to rock and we are full-timing, I bit the bullet and paid the price. Here is my justification (and trust me, it took a lot to convince myself.)
1. We have had 2 previous TT and a 5er. Each of them has shaken, rolled, bounced, etc from walking, wind, turning over in bed. Full-timing, I did not think I could handle that much Dramamine.
2. We have the 3650RK – one long, long frame and I knew from the first look while on the dealer’s lot there would be flex. We discussed pin stabilizers – thanks to everyone who has commented on the forum about their experiences. I have previously tried various jacks, blocks, tire stabilizers, etc with some improvement but not enough.
3. Referring to #2, each of these needed constant tightening, adjusting, whatever to maintain level, stability and a tight fit against the frame. Here in Alaska with constantly changing ice, snow, frost heaves, etc, I had no desire to crawl around in the snow every few days to make the adjustments. A perfect example: Where I am currently parked is on at least 2 inches of solid ice underneath an inch or so of snow. We just had a warming spell and snow melted and the ice began to melt. With a manual leveling system, I would be out there making sure everything was tight and level. We had similar adjustment issues when in Georgia/Florida during rain while parked on mud/dirt/clay. This system is self adjusting - enough said.
I was well aware that this was going to hit hard in the pocket book. The final cost was between $5000.00 and $6000.00. Sorry, should have warned you to get your nitroglycerin before throwing that out there. However, since I am still working full-time and this will be our full-time home for several years, 8% of total cost is not too much for a solid foundation. And trust me, I mean SOLID. The only time we vibrate is on the W/D spin cycle. Walking, vacuuming, chasing the cat, 80 mph winds and we do not shake or bounce.
Let me explain the process: I park the RV where I want it. I do block the wheels and have always used wheel locks between the tires. I have 4 bags of those ‘lego’ style blocks. I put one full bag (10 blocks) under each leveler. (These are not really needed on the front, but the travel distance is shorter and thus faster with the blocks.) These are required for the rear due to the high rear-end of the 3650RK. Without the blocks, there is not quite enough rise to always level the RV. I push a button and lower the front landing gear to remove from the truck. (The original landing gear have been removed and gone to RV heaven.) Then I must drop the front down to get a slight downward angle on the RV after moving the truck (this is required by the system). Then I push the ‘ON’ button again and the auto leveling takes over. The front rises and the rear gear drops and levels the system in about 4 minutes. To pack-up and travel, I raise the rear gear some to drop the rear. I raise the front to hook up the truck. I drop the front to allow the truck to carry the weight and then push the ‘store’ button. This raises and stores all the gear.
This entire process can also be completed manually and each gear can be individually controlled. The system is all hydraulic and very sure and stable. There is intelligence built into the system (since I do not always have mine intact.) I cannot ‘store’ the landing gear as long as any weight is on the front gear. The lights tell you if any gear is out of the store position more than ½ inch and where your rig is not level. If the RV has ‘excess slope’ (i.e. gets too far of balance) the system locks down and requires manual intervention. If I have a hydraulic leak, the rear gear would automatically raise. The front gear has a mechanically controlled steel bar that pins in place along side the hydraulic gear after leveling. Should a leak develop on the front, the front would drop less than 4 inches due to this steel bar. I have pictures here:
http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...anding%20Gear/
Linear Mode
