Installed Motorized Gate Valve

[Bladescb]

Our black tank gate valve was leaking past the valve and getting worse, to the point of maybe a gallon or so of scum was getting by between between dumps. To eliminate the problem I had installed another manual gate valve at the very end to block the bypass. It was getting worse and it was time to replace the real gate valve as it exited the black tank. I was going to replace the gate valve and T handle cable together while I was doing it. Camping neighbor suggested putting in a motorized gate valve as he did. I looked into it and purchased the Barker 3" Auto-Drain and a new gate valve. (Amazon pictures show a gate valve with the Auto-drain but, it DOES NOT come with the Auto-Drain purchase)

I highly suggest that this is a two person job. We cut a flap in the corrugated plastic underbelly for access to the gate valve. It is not easy separating the gate valve from between the sewage pipe where is is located. We installed the new gate valve twice because it leaked the first time because the gaskets did not seat properly. Second time we used a ratchet strap around the sewage pipe, tied to the axle, gently separating the pipes and allowing for proper gasket alignment. We snaked 20 or so feet of wire in the underbelly to a light in front compartment for constant 12VDC power.

It's has been installed for a couple of weeks now with no problems. No leaking past new gate valve whatsoever. I works slick! It probably took me and buddy about 4-5 hours to complete.

Barker 3" Auto-Drain #24130 $126.69
Valterra 3" Gate Valve #T1003VPM $22.94
25' zip cord for power $6.00

[ScottnSue]

Good work there. Where did yo put the switch to operate the valve ? How did you know where to cut the coroplast and how did you sew it back up ? I ask as I have a leaking valve I need to fix this spring.

[phillyg]

Glad it worked out for you. I have to do the same and was perplexed about how to seperate the pipes, so thanks for the strap idea.

[Bladescb]

Originally Posted by ScottnSue

Good work there. Where did yo put the switch to operate the valve ? How did you know where to cut the coroplast and how did you sew it back up ? I ask as I have a leaking valve I need to fix this spring.

We put the switch right where the old pull cable was as seen in the last pic.
We made an educated guess as the where to cut the coroplast as it is not far from the drain.
We cut coroplast around the washers that were holding it up and put a new self tapping screw and fender washer to put the coroplast back up. I will re-tape the cut seams when I get home. Look at the pic and you can see I only cut 3 side and made it like a flap so it was still connected on one side.

Sorry the pics are sideways!
Hope this helps!

[432bartman]

That looks slick Bladescb. You'd think the manufacturers would place the valves exposed and not hidden under the belly pan, so maintenance can be performed. When mine do eventually fail, your route is what I will do. Thank you for posting this.

[Bladescb]

Originally Posted by 432bartman

That looks slick Bladescb. You'd think the manufacturers would place the valves exposed and not hidden under the belly pan, so maintenance can be performed. When mine do eventually fail, your route is what I will do. Thank you for posting this.

I can never figure out what the manufacturer was thinking (or not) when they build these RVs!!!

[Theunz]

Exposed valves would freeze up in the winter.

[BuckandTeresa]

Good point!

[Bourbon County]

Originally Posted by 432bartman

That looks slick Bladescb. You'd think the manufacturers would place the valves exposed and not hidden under the belly pan, so maintenance can be performed. When mine do eventually fail, your route is what I will do. Thank you for posting this.

At a very minimum, install an access door or removable panel in this area. It would be easy to maintain the insulation quality and provide access. The odds are pretty high that the dump valves will require service at some point.