Replacing a Norcold 2118 fridge

[432bartman]

Anyboy know of the cabinet size for the Norcold 2118 model refrigerator? What 110 or 12V replacement refrigerators have people used to replace this refrigerator? Norcold specs the size at 69"H x 36"W x 24"D. I'm looking for a replacement, which will not require any cutting or remodeling of the factory enclosure in my 2019 3560RL.

If you went the 110 route, did you put in an invertor? What size, and a transfer switch if you used one so it would automatically transfer over to shore power?

[Mikendebbie]

I found these dimensions with an eBay listing for a 2118, even though the model listed in the spec sheet says “1210”….?
Second screen shot is for the Samsung RF18 110v that (I assume keystone put in the same cubby)

[432bartman]

Thanks Mike

[AZ Traveler]

Robert,

Another option is J-C Refrigeration (an Amish company) conversion kit which turns it into a compressor model.

[Foldbak]

If you go res fridge you'll need an inverter to run it while traveling and you'll be limited to shore power. Boon docking will require solar and lithium.

[Mikendebbie]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

If you go res fridge you'll need an inverter to run it while traveling and you'll be limited to shore power. Boon docking will require solar and lithium.

Bartman - for a residential fridge, you will also need to get the steel anchors that tie back to the rear wall (lots of threads discussing those things when the factory install fails, and what members have done to correct and improve the attachment) and you will need the thing that attaches to the front of fridge. Seems odd but I don’t recall anyone here search for that apparatus or providing a link to purchase. I would think Trekwood carries them, so start watering your money tree!!

Also, I was looking at some videos showing the interior of the 3561RL and I see a wood closure piece along the bottom below the 2118 fridge. You would need to remove that piece in order to slide a residential fridge into the cubby.

Does your 2118 already have a water line for ice? My Samsung RF18 has an ice maker.

Tony mentioned the inverter. My fridge runs all the time - it runs off the inverter during travel. This fridge has been running continuously since we bought the rig Jan 2018. It’s plugged in at the S&B and it’s plugged in at a campground. It’s like the old fridge in the garage…it just runs and runs. I need to install a new heater on the coils (Well known issue with my generation of Samsung and LG fridges) but that does not affect operation…I just have to clean out some ice build up under the bottom of my drawers - no big deal.

Edit…I found the fridge bracket on Trekwood…see screen shot below.
I searched for Magnum CSW1012 inverters and prices are all over the place (2nd screen shot).
So - the cost to convert to residential fridge just for your comparison purposes…

New fridge - allow $1200 - $1400
New brace/anchor - Trekwood $170 + $100 freight (????? Who knows)
Inverter - allow (?????) $600…I am not familiar with inverters…there may be cheaper alternatives.
Misc screws, anchors, plumbing fittings etc. - allow $100
Your installation time - FREE!
Total - looks like $2000 to $2500.

[432bartman]

Thanks for the responses everyone. By the time I'd buy the J-C refrigeration kit, I'd be into for around $1,800.00. I'm electing to get a residential fridge and go with an invertor that has an automatic transfer switch. A buddy of mine just went that route in his Reflection 5th wheel, so I have some help to tap into, and muscle to get the new fridge into place. He tried having his factory fridge fixed at a cost of $2,200.00 and it never did run right. He ended up getting a Haier fridge, 2,000 watt invertor, and shore power transfer switch, and it has worked perfectly. I'm trying to budget everything at, or under $2,500.00.

[Foldbak]

You should be able to find a Magnum around $300.
https://voltaico.com/magnum-energy-csw2024-2000w-pure-sine-wave-inverter-24vdc/?utm_source=Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=All%20P roducts%20Google%20Merchant%20&utm_medium=cpc&utm_ term=2219&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu53hnvWzi QMVlSGtBh3suROyEAQYCSABEgLyuvD_BwE
What inverter do you have now? There should be a transfer switch that switches over from inverter to shore power.

[432bartman]

Thanks Tony

[pitman44]

Originally Posted by 432bartman

Anyboy know of the cabinet size for the Norcold 2118 model refrigerator? What 110 or 12V replacement refrigerators have people used to replace this refrigerator? Norcold specs the size at 69"H x 36"W x 24"D. I'm looking for a replacement, which will not require any cutting or remodeling of the factory enclosure in my 2019 3560RL.

If you went the 110 route, did you put in an invertor? What size, and a transfer switch if you used one so it would automatically transfer over to shore power?

We replaced the 2118 in our camper, not a Montana, with a Whirlpool WRQA59CNKZ. Width and depth were fine. I did have to trim about 1-1/4" from the top of the opening. I made brackets I put between the rollers and the fridge that I could screw in from the front. I'm looking for a better way to support the top a little bit.

[432bartman]

Well everyone it's pretty much done. A two day job. I'm wrapping things up today with the upper and lower trim pieces. So this information is for those wanting to tackle this job themselves.

A replacement Norcold 2118 model fridge is approximately $6,000.00, which is unbelievable. I contacted my local RV repair facility and to fix mine would be $4,400.00. For just a removal and replacement of a new fridge, they wanted $1,700.00, which did not include the cost of a new fridge. (Thank you to Pitman44, who replaced his Norcold 2118 with a Whirlpool WRQA59CNKZ, as that is the type and model I chose to go with). I purchased the new Whirlpool from Home Depot for $1,645.34. This included tax and the delivery was free.

To remove the old fridge, I first removed the upper and lower plastic trim pieces, which are held in by clips. This allowed access to the upper & lower screws that hold the front of the fridge in place. I removed all the fridge doors, and removed whatever
shelving and plastic tins are inside. On the backside of the fridge, I removed the lower outer plastic vent cover. I disconnected the propane line where it t's off just under the slide. I disconnected the 12V, ground and other leads from the back. I removed approximately 3 wood screws that held the back of the fridge in place to the floor.

I was now able to pull the fridge out. I protected the flooring with the thick cardboard that the new fridge came packed in. Placing the fridge out of the opening and on the kitchen floor, I removed the entire cooling unit (I watched a YouTube video on how to do this on this exact fridge) Remove all the bolts from the inside and the ones on the outside, which hold the unit in place, it will all just peel away. This will save like 80lbs of garbage and make the empty shell very easy to lift out.

With the fridge out, I cleaned out the opening and used 1/2" foam board from Home Depot to seal the upper and lower vent opening. I cut it to 18" x 30" and used waterproof/all weather Gorilla tape to seal it up. From the inside on the upper vent opening there is an aluminum duct piece held in with a couple of scews that is no longer needed. Remove and toss it away. I removed the old insulation from the sides of the refrigerator opening. Day 1 is over.

Day 2: I prepped the new fridge by removing all the inside drawers,shelving, doors and the lower door mounts, which also have the rollers on them. (The new fridge is 10 times nicer than the Norcold) With the help of two friends we attempted to bring the fridge in and discovered an obstacle blocking us. I had to removed the screen door and the lower trim pieces of the overhead cabinet that is directly in front of the door. With that out of the way we were able to get the new fridge in by pretty much carrying it in on its side.

We reinstalled the doors and test fitted the unit. Pushing the unit all the way back, the front rollers were able to clear the lip of the floor. I cut three sides of the lower vent panel covering I had made to allow access to the back of the fridge. With my two friends pushing the fridge into place, and me on the backside, I was able to keep the electrical cord clear of the fridge and plug it in. Using two 2-1/2" L-angle brackets, I mounted the back of the fridge to the flooring. I used self tapping screws to mount the L-angle to the lower portion of the fridge frame. On one side of the L-angle, I cut approximatley 2" off and redrilled a hole for the wood screw to go through. Once that was done, I re-sealed the opening I had cut with more Gorilla tape.

On the front side, two pieces of 2by4 were cut and placed in front of the lower wheels so the fridge could not roll out. Using a flat piece of Everbilt 3-1/2" sized plate and several wood screws, I secured the cut two by four to the floor. (Prior to installing, the two by four, plates, and screws, they were painted flat black). For securing the upper portion of the fridge, I used two Everbilt 2" size inside corner braces. These were attached to the outside of the fridge and cabinet with 1/2" size self tapping screws.

On a final step, the upper wood trim piece had to be removed and cut down by about an inch or so. I plan on reusing the factory plastic upper and lower plastic trim pieces by removing the clips and adhering it with double sided tape or with a finish nail gun.

All in all, it was definitely worth saving a lot of money doing this project myself. If you have the time, and physical strength to handle this, or younger stronger persons to help out, I'd say do it. The new fridge is amazing and added about 1 cu ft in size to the old one. As for now, the fridge will only run off of shore power. My close friend who helped me out on this project, just did this to his Grand Design Relection 5th wheel. For his first trip, he just used shore power to cool his fridge down and made a 4 hour drive to Paso Robles. By the time he got to his destination, his fridge and freezer only went up two degrees. Following that trip he put in an inverter, transfer switch and went with two lithium batteries from Rododo. This is the route I will do next.......stay tuned. Hopefully this information will help other out. Happy camping.........from Robert

Oh in the last photo, that is a suction cup glass holder.........works great so your refrigerator doors don't open on the road. $25.00 on Amazon

[Carl n Susan]

Nice job and write up!

[scottz]

Nice job, you will love having a cold freezer.

[Mikendebbie]

Bartman - the fridge looks great - but your front yard lawn turf is award winning! Give my compliments to your gardener! It’s amazing the stuff you can grow in CA…

[MandK]

Nice job! I hope you like the residential fridge as well as we like ours.

[RMcNeal]

Agree with Mike. The fridge install looks very nice, but the lawn, I assumed, was artificial turf. I was actually looking for the yardage hash marks

[432bartman]

Thanks guys for the replies