Leaking Blackwater Tank - 2014, 3155

[Craig Neighbarger]

Hello All,

I have a leaking blackwater tank / fitting on my 2014, 3155. I was reading some of the posts on MOC regarding the same problem and decided to sign-up to see what others have done to fix the leak, or replace the tank entirely.

Like some members, I was flushing the blackwater tank, but I didn't forget to shut the water valve off, I deliberately left the water on watching the water through the open foot flush valve on the toilet. Once I saw the water, I'd open the electric Valterra drain valve (these are great) and drain the tank. This procedure worked fine for months until one day when an RV neighbor came over and said you've got water coming from you trailer!!! Well that was the start of that smell...

I'm looking at replacing the tank, instead of repairing the tank. What aftermarket tanks are available and from whom. And the members' thoughts of which are best and which poop (pun intended). I've been under the trailer more times than I care to memtion, so, is the removal of the tank difficult. If anyone has links to You Tube videos, I'd appreciate the link.

I'm looking for to your comments and suggestion.

Safe Travels

[mlh]

If I planned to keep the camper I’d replace it. If I was fixing it I would get a piece of plastic and silicone it on. I have a farm tank that I have had some splits 8 to 10 inches long on. I fixed them like this and haven’t had a problem with since. This tank sees much more abuse than your trailer tank will ever see. Like falling out of the front end bucket from 3 feet while full of water.
Lynwood

[Mikendebbie]

Sources for new black tanks…

https://recpro.com/rv-black-water-tanks/
https://www.icondirect.com/

There might be some numbers on top of the tank that might help one of the tank companies identify the size. Look for a tank where the outlet matches yours…front, middle, rear. You will need to measure the inlet hole on your old tank and use a hole saw etc. to cut the hole. Many folks here have added steel angles below the tank to provide better support.

I replaced a black tank on one our old travel trailers years ago…I measured 20 TIMES and cut once. You might be able to reuse the rubber grommet that snaps into the new inlet, then stuff small section of pipe to meet your drain pipe, maybe using a rubber union.
Watch a few YouTube videos - much better that reading my description.

[Craig Neighbarger]

Originally Posted by mlh

If I planned to keep the camper I’d replace it. If I was fixing it I would get a piece of plastic and silicone it on. I have a farm tank that I have had some splits 8 to 10 inches long on. I fixed them like this and haven’t had a problem with since. This tank sees much more abuse than your trailer tank will ever see. Like falling out of the front end bucket from 3 feet while full of water.
Lynwood

MLH,

Thank you for your response. I plan on keeping the trailer for at least another summer and then sell it and downsize. No doubt it will have a better resale value if the tank is replaced. However, if I discover some fitting is loose, then silicone might be the answer.

What I really need to know, is how difficult is it to remove the tank from the underbelly of the trailer whether it be to repair the tank or replace the tank.

Best regards.

[Craig Neighbarger]

Originally Posted by Mikendebbie

Sources for new black tanks…

https://recpro.com/rv-black-water-tanks/
https://www.icondirect.com/

There might be some numbers on top of the tank that might help one of the tank companies identify the size. Look for a tank where the outlet matches yours…front, middle, rear. You will need to measure the inlet hole on your old tank and use a hole saw etc. to cut the hole. Many folks here have added steel angles below the tank to provide better support.

I replaced a black tank on one our old travel trailers years ago…I measured 20 TIMES and cut once. You might be able to reuse the rubber grommet that snaps into the new inlet, then stuff small section of pipe to meet your drain pipe, maybe using a rubber union.
Watch a few YouTube videos - much better that reading my description.

MikeNDebbie,

Thank you for your response and links to RV tank manufacturers, I'll check them out.

Of interest, when you replaced the blackwater tank in your old trailer, was this trailer a Keystone? If so it may have used the same design to support the tank, so that would be helpful to know.

I did a quick search of YouTube and found many videos for replacing the blackwater tank in an RV. Now I'll search to see if any videos address replacing one in a Keystone.

Thank you for your time.

[AZ Traveler]

Craig,

Before making a decision on the tank, I would pull the coroplast down and fill the tank again to determine where it is leaking. It may be the connection and not the tank.

[Craig Neighbarger]

Thank you for the suggestion.

When I looked at it last, I didn't know that the drain valve's nozzle to the tank was the leaking point on others' rigs. Unfortunately, with winter settling in here in Colorado, that'll be a project for spring.

I appreciate your input.

[Cat320]

If you can get to where the leak is, JB Weld will fix it.

[Craig Neighbarger]

Originally Posted by Cat320

If you can get to where the leak is, JB Weld will fix it.

CAT320,

Thank you for the advice. It's good to know what will stick to the tank material (ABS?), some of these plastics don't bond well with sealants.

Take care.

[firestation12]

One thought that came to mind is that filling the tank above the sprayer head nullifies the spray wash effect and risks an accident. Only time I would consider pushing the limit would be to add chemicals for long term storage. YMMV

[c2itcliff]

Originally Posted by Craig Neighbarger

CAT320,

Thank you for the advice. It's good to know what will stick to the tank material (ABS?), some of these plastics don't bond well with sealants.

Take care.

I used an ABS solvent. The same kind used to glue ABS fittings. Buy a fitting and use a course file to create a few table spoons of filings. Place the filings into a glass jar and add some solvent. Stir the mixture until it forms a paste, like pancake batter. I then used some scrap pieces of fiberglass screening, the same used on our Montana windows and screen door. I then saturated the repair site with the paste and applied a piece of screening. Use an inexpensive paint brush to apply the paste. I repeated this three times using a larger piece of screen each time. The repair remains fixed many years later.