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Old 11-05-2007, 04:37 PM   #1
Okie Guy
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Winterizing or Not Winterizing


I plan to use my unit over the winter. I want to do some winter camping this year. I don't have the convience center to just suck the antifreeze into the lines. It is a long involved process which involved filling up the fresh water tank with a couple gallons of antifreeze. Its a pain to wash that stuff out of there.

I have emptied the water lines in the trailers and emptied the hot water tank. I have poured pink stuff in every gray/black tank in the unit and I have the heat on 50 degrees. Do you think I should still suck pink stuff into the lines? I plan to be in the unit about a week around Christmas, in January and another week in February.

Is 50 degrees too low on the inside temp or should I just suck it up and have the unit completely winterized each time? It sure would be nice to have one of those convience centers in Miss Monty. Shes a 2005 though and the centers came out in 2006.
Thanks in Advance
Phil
 
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Old 11-05-2007, 05:39 PM   #2
rogue
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Phil, Check the owners manual and see if it has the "air" as well as the "Anitfreeze" winterization methods. If so you may want to try the air method. You will not need to clean out the anitfreeze every time. I am not sure on the trailer vs the 5er manual. If you are going to keep it at 50 degrees inside, are your tanks inside and imsolated? If so, you may not need to winterise. Maybe someone with a unit like yours can advise.

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Old 11-05-2007, 11:37 PM   #3
Mrs. CountryGuy
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Phil

Disclaimer: IT IS TOO EARLY!! No coffee yet, etc etc etc.

Second disclaimer: Not familiar with your unit.

So, will phrase as a question: Have you considered adding a bypass kit for the water heater, so you can winterize like the big brother Montana??

It could be difficult depending on your access to the water heater.

Now, I will return to my hibernation mode!
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:49 PM   #4
jpbcny
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If you plan on heating it to 50 Degrees, you should be able to just drain the hot water heater, and purge the lines of water using air pressure. Just get one of the "Plugs" shown below:



JP
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:11 AM   #5
TLG
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You can add a bypass valve to the water pump to pull the antifreeze through the unit. Just did it this past Sunday. Cost about $15.00 and took less than 5 minutes.
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:41 AM   #6
H. John Kohl
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Okie Guy


I plan to use my unit over the winter. I want to do some winter camping this year. I don't have the convince center to just suck the antifreeze into the lines. I strongly recommend adding this $15 to $20 capability. All it is is a "T" valve and three feet of hose. It makes it easy to get pink stuff into the lines. The water pump sucks it in. Removes the "long" process. It is a long involved process which involved filling up the fresh water tank with a couple gallons of antifreeze. Its a pain to wash that stuff out of there.

I have emptied the water lines in the trailers and emptied the hot water tank. When you say empty I hope you mean "BLOWN OUT". I feel that is the only way to purge the lines without using the pink stuff. I have poured pink stuff in every gray/black tank in the unit and I have the heat on 50 degrees. The propane cost against the pink stuff needs to be evaluated. For me the $24.00 for one tank of propane covers the cost of the pink stuff when using the pump kit. Do you think I should still suck pink stuff into the lines? I plan to be in the unit about a week around Christmas, in January and another week in February.

Is 50 degrees too low on the inside temp or should I just suck it up and have the unit completely winterized each time? It sure would be nice to have one of those convince centers in Miss Monty. Shes a 2005 though and the centers came out in 2006.
Thanks in Advance
Phil
I used about five gallons of pink stuff for full winterization. I put 1/2 gallon in each trap and then the rest in the lines. With the pump kit the pink stuff sure gives you a safe feeling and should take no longer than 15 to 20 minutes.
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Old 11-06-2007, 01:35 AM   #7
bosan
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Before our new Monty, I drained all 3 tanks in our SOB and used my compressor to blow out the lines using the adapter shown in another post. The DW monotered each faucet to varify they were dry while I maintained air pressure set at 40 lbs. I left the valves open during the 'winterized season'. I also added the 'pink' to each drain including the black water tank (about 2 gal). This system worked for us 2 winters in a row although the 'freezing' weather in North GA(Helen) is generally no lower than the mid teens.

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Old 11-08-2007, 10:50 AM   #8
scattershot
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The only time I didn't add the pink stuff cost me a water pump. I didn't blow out the lines, and some water remained in the pump, cracking the housing. I think that's the weak link, but if you blow it out as others have suggested, you shouldn't have any trouble. A bypass kit could lessen the chore considerably.
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Old 11-08-2007, 11:30 AM   #9
ggranch
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If you also add a clip-on tire chuck to your tool kit, the "air purge" becomes a one person task. It also cuts down on the hollering back and forth. Bob
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Old 11-09-2007, 04:34 PM   #10
Okie Guy
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Bob and Sandra that is one good lookin truck in your profile!
I don't think I am going to have to worry about winterizing the unit. I am probably going to trade it off next week...if I can talk myself into letting this unit go.
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Old 11-10-2007, 08:24 AM   #11
sreigle
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Phil, your Mountaineer should have a clear hose attached at or near the water pump. There also should be a valve that allows that clear line to input into the pump. Turn the valve(s) to bypass the water heater. Turn the valve to open the clear hose. Put the clear hose in a gallon jug of antifreeze. Turn on the pump and open faucets. My 2003 3295RK never took more than 2 1/2 gallons of antifreeze using this method. It's maybe a 10 minute job once you locate everything you need.

Our 2001 2880RL had two valves (one on inlet, one on outlet) for bypassing the water heater. Our 2003 3295RK had one. Each had a valve to open the clear hose.

Since you want to use the rig at times you probably wouldn't want to do this full winterizing after each trip. I would get an air valve for the city water inlet (available at rv stores and some walmarts), drain the low point valves and tanks, drain the water heater, bypass the water heater, open valves and apply air to the air valve. Do not apply more than about 30 psi or you will push the o-ring out of place on the city water inlet (been there. )

Don't forget to open the outside shower valves if you have it, whether blowing out the lines or running antifreeze through it.

As for just keeping it warm, all you need inside the coach is enough to keep it above freezing. But you will also need that inside the belly if you have not drained the lines. You can do that with the furnace.

I would think the simplest would be to use the air valve method in your case.
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Old 11-10-2007, 06:44 PM   #12
MAMalody
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If you just blow out the lines and put some anti-freeze in the traps, why would you have to run the furnace for belly heat? I plan on using this method this winter...is there something that I missed here?
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Old 11-11-2007, 04:25 AM   #13
Okie Guy
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I have sucked it up and bought the quick winterization kit to install on the water pump. I am just going to winterize it each time I use it this winter. I almost traded it off yesterday just because of there is no easy way to winterize my unit like the newer montanas. In my unit I have to unscrew the board under the fridge to get to the water pump and then hook up all the winterization stuff. If it irritates me too much I may just pul it over to the dealer and get rid of it.
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Old 11-11-2007, 11:12 AM   #14
richfaa
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Since we are leaving for Flordia Nov 26 we do not do a full winterization. We disconnect all external water hoses and keep the temp set a 50 degrees/that will keep the inside warm as well as the lines in the underbelly. The hot water tank on the 3400 is inside the camper so no need to drain.. We did this last year also and did not leave till December 15th. These things have a "artic package" right so nothing should freeze
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Old 11-11-2007, 12:29 PM   #15
drjjj
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We are about to put our Monty in temporary "storage" for weekend/vacation use after living in it full time for the last 16 months. We are in San Antonio, so how cold does it need to be before we need to "winterize"? If we just drain the hot water heater and drain the holding tanks, is that enough? I should mention that the rig will be stored under cover (sheet metal shed) but not have access to electricity. Thanks.
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Old 11-11-2007, 03:20 PM   #16
Okie Guy
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You should be ok that far south, but I would blow out the lines. Nothing worse than stagnant water for bacteria to grow.
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Old 11-12-2007, 07:45 AM   #17
drjjj
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I saw a picture of a "blowout plug". Where do you obtain one? Is there a documented procedure somewhere for clearing the water lines?
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Old 11-12-2007, 01:01 PM   #18
Okie Guy
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You can pick one of these up at camping world. They have them at Wal-Mart for a couple of bucks.
Here is the camping world link...

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...ug/skunum=4410

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Old 11-12-2007, 01:36 PM   #19
Rondo
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If you get one of the blowout plugs as Okie Guy referenced, make sure you open at least one or two of the faucets before applying the air pressure to the lines or you may just blow a line apart or at least a connection and then have SOME water who knows where!
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