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Old 02-22-2020, 03:13 PM   #1
w5352
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Talking Dump Valve Replacement

I have a 3791RD, The Black and Grey water dump valves stick and don't close properly. On a trip to Florida I ran over blown tire carcass nd it damaged the dump system. Because I have to remove the cloraplast and repair I am going to install auto dump valves. If anyone has done this where did you install the switches. By the way because my valves leaked I dump crap all over I-95
 
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Old 02-22-2020, 09:12 PM   #2
DQDick
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Do some research before you go that way. Our dealer here in Carlsbad was big on them a couple of years ago, but won't installl them now. Too many issues over time and if they fail, then you have to drop the coroplast and operate them manually. Not a good thing at the dump station. One thing many of us have done is install a knife valve on the outlet sewer pipe. That way, not only can you keep everything on board even with a failure, but you don't get the little nasty surprise when you take the cap off that so often is waiting for you.
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Old 02-23-2020, 05:43 AM   #3
Jeff and Deb
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I would second the installation of a knife valve on the outlet; I have one and it does a fantastic job of making sure there are no surprises when you take the cap off.
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Old 02-23-2020, 09:19 AM   #4
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...............One thing many of us have done is install a knife valve on the outlet sewer pipe. That way, not only can you keep everything on board even with a failure, but you don't get the little nasty surprise when you take the cap off that so often is waiting for you.
Ditto.........recently purchased/installed a "Camco 3-inch Sewer Gate Valve with cap Built-in Clear Adapter 3-inch Sewer Fitting" for $19.43 on Amazon.


https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B07X4B7K92
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Old 02-23-2020, 12:45 PM   #5
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Do some research before you go that way. Our dealer here in Carlsbad was big on them a couple of years ago, but won't installl them now. Too many issues over time and if they fail, then you have to drop the coroplast and operate them manually. Not a good thing at the dump station. One thing many of us have done is install a knife valve on the outlet sewer pipe. That way, not only can you keep everything on board even with a failure, but you don't get the little nasty surprise when you take the cap off that so often is waiting for you.
Well that convinces me I need to do this as soon as practical.
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Old 02-23-2020, 02:11 PM   #6
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I just installed a second one after my first one started getting hard to operate even after l greased it . This is a must have on the end of your sewer cap but does not make a cure all for your black tank valve leaking. If your black tank valve continues to leak then you will wind up with a dry tank and a solid build up in your tank if you wind up with all your liquid in the line. I have the valterra valves with rods which are great but the end cap valve is great just in case you have a problem with your tank valves as this will get you home so that you can repair the valves.
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Old 02-26-2020, 07:16 PM   #7
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I got tired of the OEM valve always leaking and installed a cable actuated valve from Valtera. Adding the valve has the added feature of placing the outlet connection closer to the side; makes it much easier to access.
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Old 02-26-2020, 08:29 PM   #8
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I installed direct threaded rod pulls, minor rework of the plumbing, no cables, both black tanks, both gray tanks, three years ago and can still open and close with one finger.
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Old 03-07-2020, 02:28 PM   #9
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After all these years of RVers having valve failures/leaks, isn't it sad that this discussion needs to happen? If you're a good inventer or know of one, there are $$$ millions to be made.
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Old 03-07-2020, 05:39 PM   #10
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UPDATE
I replaced all three valve with Valterra valves. As for dropping the under belly. Not a problem for me. I have only had to access one valve one time. The reason was an installation issue which I caused because I installed them. I just cut the cloraplast on three sides, did the repair and taped it back up with NASCAR 200mph tape. No problems towing.
The reason I replaced them was I did not like working around the slide to get to the grey kitchen valve. The bath grey and black valves would not close properly and I continued to get crap on me setting up and breaking down.
Keep in mind, that I only camp at sites with full hookups and I have my own dump station at my stick home.
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Old 03-07-2020, 05:40 PM   #11
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After all these years of RVers having valve failures/leaks, isn't it sad that this discussion needs to happen? If you're a good inventer or know of one, there are $$$ millions to be made.
I don't know if we need a better invention as the electric and rod pulls work well. We just need the industry to get on board and have these as standard equipment. It's amazing how many turns these cables have to turn and then are expected to work correctly when all they have to do is make these cables a straight pull even if you have to get out of the so called convenience center. When I was younger I bought extras for my cars to make them look good and run fast where as with these rv's it's all about spending extra money just so the rv works right. It gets old spending all this money just because the industry won't fix things right before we purchase them.
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Old 03-07-2020, 06:40 PM   #12
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I would second the installation of a knife valve on the outlet; I have one and it does a fantastic job of making sure there are no surprises when you take the cap off.
I glued mine on with abs glue just to make sure it wouldn't come off. I no longer get the dribble when I unscrew the cap (I still use cap on the outside of the new valve).

An additional benefit to adding the valve on the outlet, increasing the grey water capacity. Close the outlet valve and open both grey valves. Galley and bath grey tanks combine which for us increases boodock time because bath grey always filled up first. Just have to remember dump sequence: 1) close both grey tank valves. 2) dump black tank, close valve. 3) dump grey tanks.
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