Battery Issue - Thoughts?

[GHallof]

Folks I could really use some feedback here on what I believe to be a bad battery.

The 5er - 2017 3661RL - Bought used in 2018 Believe battery was brand new when we purchased it.

The battery - NAPA 8301 Grp 27 90AH

The issue - Camper stays plugged in FULL TIME. Where the problem comes in is when I go to hook up or drop and use the LEVEL UP, I constantly get solenoid noise but no pump action to raise or lower the jacks. Kinda like theres not enough juice in battery to fire things over. Does this no matter the time of year.

I check the battery with a multimeter in a completely disconnected state and it always measures 13+ volts.

Thoughts?

[prndl]

Are you getting any voltage at all on the pump?

[GHallof]

Originally Posted by prndl

Are you getting any voltage at all on the pump?

You would think I would have checked that unfortunately I did not...but I will.

Took the battery out to ensure a good charge. Ill test the batt then reinstall and check.

[jeffba]

have you replaced the 50 amo breaker with an 80?

[jeffba]

Also check for loose wires

[ChuckS]

I’d start by removing those battery terminal connections one at a t8me from battery and clean them and reconnect

I’d also.. as recommended replace the stock 50 amp resettable breaker from battery to dual polarity solenoid with an 80 amp

If problem still persists after doing the above two items the only thing left that would most likely cause your issue is a weak dual polarity solenoid

This is easy to test and verify.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0001894.pdf

[GHallof]

ChuckS

I think you are on to something. The Solenoid center post has movement. The post coming out of the solenoid is what I mean. Is that a possibility and is it just a matter of tightening up the retaining nut?

[offroad71]

Check water level and check for a dead cell.

[rohrmann]

Something I did not see is, if this rig has a residential fridge instead of an RV fridge, it really should have a two battery installation. A single battery will likely go completely dead fairly fast and once this has happened, it is usually trashed as it will not hold a charge. If you try to operate your hydraulics on a weak battery and only a single one, this may also be the cause of the problem.

[ChuckS]

kS

I think you are on to something. The Solenoid center post has movement. The post coming out of the solenoid is what I mean. Is that a possibility and is it just a matter of tightening up the retaining nut?

None of the posts on the dual polarity solenoid should wiggle or be loose... Have you performed the solenoid test per the link I posted?

This will tell you if you have a solenoid issue

[ChuckS]

Also if you use a multi meter and measure DC voltage at two points circled on dual polarity solenoid each should read over 12 volts during hyd motor operation.

Place red lead of meter on either green or yellow wire connection terminal on solenoid and black lead from meter to ground

Have helper run level up system in manual a bit and observe meter reading... green wire is for one direction and yellow is for other direction (up or down)...

If voltage drops down into the 11 volt range AT ALL system is nit going to work. This would be an indication of loose or corroded wires

Pic .. two red circles indicates points to measure DC volts at on solenoid

[GHallof]

I have'nt as of yet. Pulled the batt completely out for full testing, water level check and attempting a full fresh charge. Trying to set the batt to KNOWN good condition. While doing that yesterday figured I would check all connections and that is when I found the center post on the solenoid itself to have movement. I would assume if that post is not supposed to move on its own. Its probably a problem.

[GHallof]

Great info. Going to order a new solenoid. While that is going on however, I'll follow the info you have sent along. 1. To learn 2. Prove out the therory that the post is the issue. All other connections are tight and in like new condition. Really appreciate the info. Thank you SIR!

[ChuckS]

One other thought that may cause your issue is... have you tried cycling the battery disconnect switch a few times on and off and then back on? If the switch is not making solid contact it would still run low current devices but won’t allow the amperage needed to be drawn across the dual polarity solenoid.

Just a thought

[DebNJim B]

Originally Posted by ChuckS

One other thought that may cause your issue is... have you tried cycling the battery disconnect switch a few times on and off and then back on? If the switch is not making solid contact it would still run low current devices but won’t allow the amperage needed to be drawn across the dual polarity solenoid.

Just a thought

I was also going to suggest checking the disconnect switch. I recently picked up my rig from a repair at the dealer and the key was out of the switch. Under the impression the key can't come out with the switch on I presumed the switch was off so I put the key in and turn it "on". Getting it home the level up would not work, low voltage error. After much trouble shooting discovered the switch was actually off. Still don't know how they got the key out with the switch on.
With that switch off the battery will not charge. I was able to run jacks on shore power which I didn't think would work on disconnect, but it did.

[G & S Russell]

This may be a stupid question, but if you are plugged into the truck during the hook up process, don’t you have the availability of the truck battery power too?

[G & S Russell]

I can’t tell you how impressed I am with this site. You guys have got it going on. I’ve been on other forums and the level of help is nothing like this. I’m new here, but can already see I’m going to like it a lot. All of you are awesome. The level of expertise is astonishing. Like having access to service techs.

[jeffba]

Originally Posted by G & S Russell

This may be a stupid question, but if you are plugged into the truck during the hook up process, don’t you have the availability of the truck battery power too?

Not sure about your truck. The easiest way to check is go to your Level up controller. Hit the down arrow until the battery voltage is displayed. Then hook up your truck and start it. If the voltage goes up you have your answer.

Best to do this not hooked up to shore power. it will skew the result

[G & S Russell]

Thanks, I’ll do that next time I’m by it. Would be a good thing to know regardless. My Hitchhiker II was connected so I always had 2 truck batteries of power to work with even if the truck was not running.

[Carl n Susan]

I am pretty sure a Dodge has the 12V charge line hot all the time. So yes there should be that power to draw on.