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Old 06-24-2010, 06:02 AM   #1
sfretts
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Calling all Pull Rite Owners

Getting ready to head out on our great Canadian adventure. Doing some routine maintenance to the trailer and hitch. I have been having a chunking issue lately and read how to adjust the nut. Problem I have, is it tells me to adjust till I have resistance on turning the hitch. I have a little resistance already without adjusting, so the question is, for those of you who have this hitch (mine is 16k) how much did you adjust it and other than hooking the trailer up, is there another way to check for correct adjustment.

Thanks in advance
Steve
 
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:18 AM   #2
illapah
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from the manual I have:

ADJUSTING THE TURNTABLE CAM ARM {C1}
This adjustment will need to be made periodically. If you are experiencing a bump or
“clunk” when starting or stopping, or if the hitch is sliding up and down the way tubes
when you are not hooked up to the trailer you can perform this adjustment to reduce the
noise and keep the hitch in the forward towing position.
1. The Turntable Cam Arm Roller,
{C2} needs to be kept snug
against the rear edge of the of
the Cam Slot (Figure 8).
2. To adjust, loosen the Locking
Nut {F3} located on the Adjusting
Bolt {F2}, under the 5th Wheel
Plate {A1} (on the side facing the
front of your truck).
3. Hand tighten the Adjusting Bolt
{F2} to remove excessive play
from between the Nylon Block {E2} and the Turntable Cam Arm Roller {C2}. Turn
the Adjusting Bolt {F2} 1/2 turn more. Then, while holding the Adjusting Bolt {F2}
with one wrench, tighten the Locking Nut {F3} with another wrench.
WARNING: IF YOU OVER TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTING BOLT {F2}, YOU WILL
COMPRESS THE NYLON BLOCK, AND MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE HITCH.
ALTERNATE PLACEMENT OF JAM NUT
1. REMOVE 5/8 ADJUSTING BOLT FROM BASE
2. REMOVE JAM NUT FROM 5/8 BOLT
3. REPLACE 5/8 BOLT INTO BASE AND THREAD THE JAM NUT ON TO 5/8 BOLT BETWEEN
BULKHEAD AND STOP BLOCK. THIS WILL ALLOW EASIER ACCESS TO THE JAM NUT WHEN
TIGHTENING.
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Old 06-24-2010, 02:07 PM   #3
Pete Hanson
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I had a slight clunking sound when starting from a dead stop and no amount of adjusting would take care of it. The Pull-rite folks had me measure the back and forth movement of the pin when hitched up and it as less then 1/8th of an inch but the clunk was there. They told me that the amount of motion I had was well within specs. One day I applied some Slip Plate lubricant to the top of the hitch plate just because I thought it would be a good thing to do and lo and behold the clunking has stopped. Go figure. I guess the slight motion in the hitch plate is smoother with the Slip Plate lube on it due to less friction.
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Old 06-24-2010, 02:11 PM   #4
sola123
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We have the same hitch as you and do exactly what Illapah sent that the manual says and it is right...easy to do...we keep 2 wrenches in the truck just for this purpose....takes2 - 4 minutes at most...be sure you keep plenty of grease on the glides but do not let it build up to where it interfers with the glide action...wont be covered under warranty....we clean our 2 - 3 times a year to be safe...
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Old 06-24-2010, 03:55 PM   #5
illapah
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I have switched from grease on the waytubes to Slip Plate and am fully satisfied. Slip Plate is a dry Graphite spray recommended by PullRite.
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Old 06-25-2010, 04:09 AM   #6
mail2us
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Steve,

Illapah provides the best focus I know of concerning the adjusting and resistance to turning. I have used the notion that turning the Cam or moving it along the Way Tubes should be done with both hands and not just one. If you can turn or move it with one hand it's too loose. I actually had PullRite in Elkhart adjust our hitch and watched them and resistance was greater than what I was originally doing. The hitch performs well. The Stop Block, Item E2 should also be examined to assure wear is not flatening out the curved part of the block. For others not familiar, SlipPlate a dry product is recommended by PullRite and not grease.
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:58 AM   #7
CORattler
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On new Superglides the lubrication that is recommended is a coating of light oil such as WD-40 on the top and inside of the rails. There is a nylon (plastic?) plate that contacts the rails which reduces galling of the rails.
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Old 06-26-2010, 02:31 AM   #8
mail2us
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Thanks for the update CORattler. I find I have already dated myself with new information. Will have to go to SuperGlide website and see that. Tks.
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:39 AM   #9
sreigle
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Dennis, I emailed Pullrite awhile back asking about this and was told a retrofit kit for those of us with the older hitches will be available "later this year." They had no idea what the cost will be. If anyone finds out, please post that info. My guess is it will be replacement tubes but that's just a guess. Not even an educated one.
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Old 06-28-2010, 01:29 PM   #10
mail2us
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Thanks SteveR for the retrofit info. I will give Linda a call at PullRite in Mishawakakakakaka!! and pass along any info I may get.
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Old 07-03-2010, 08:07 AM   #11
sreigle
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Here's another question. We do not get a clunk when starting and stopping but do sometimes get a light clunk when turning and the hitch hits that 16 degree point where it breaks loose from the straight ahead mode and starts to slide aft. It's only been fairly recently we've heard this and only occasionally.

Is this affected by that same block adjustment? Anyone know?
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Old 07-03-2010, 03:57 PM   #12
sfretts
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Hi,

Two days into vacation and the hitch is performing well. I followed instructions and adjusted the bolt till the hitch was somewhat hard to turn. I also cleaned and sprayed all moving parts with the spray lube Pull Rite calls for. I have no clunks and immediately noticed the trailer seemed to pull better. I have less 'steering' going down the hiway. It used to wander a bit and the adjustment seemed to cure that.

As for it clunking when hitting the 16 degree point, I would first look at the lube on bot the roller and the ways it rides on. I thought I was hitting all the spots and when I unhooked and inspected the underside, it was dry and had a little rust. I cleaned it all up, lubricated and found I had to adjust the bolt a little more as it freed up quite a bit.

thanks for all the info

Steve
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Old 07-04-2010, 07:29 AM   #13
sreigle
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Steve, thanks. I'll check out the lubrication of the underside of ours. I think it's time to dig out the manual and wrenches and do some adjusting. I sure like the hitch.

I am having problems with the finish flaking off the capture plate (quick connect capture plate) and it getting some rust. Pullrite suggested I wire brush it and paint it. I was hoping they'd offer to replace it but... next chance I get I'll pull it off and dig out the wirebrush and paint.
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Old 11-10-2010, 04:35 PM   #14
CORattler
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Just a hint for even smoother operation - when lubricating the rails, do the tops and inside of the exposed rails when in the forward and centered position and then manually move the head all the way to the aft most position and lube the front portion of the rails. Also lube the underside of the head where it contacts the rails. You'll be amazed at how much better the hitch performs.
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:01 AM   #15
hamcamper
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Several years ago I took my hitch to Pullrite during the MOC rally. They did a complete inspection and adjustment, replaced springs and replaced the bumper with the (then new) curved one. When I tried to move the hitch while at Pullrite I had to use both hands and a lot of force to do so. The technician told me that that is the way it should be. The trailer won't have a problem moving it. So now I adjust to as tight as I can get it. I suspect that replaceing the bumper more often will be the new norm. No matter, it still is the best, by far, hitch on the market.
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Old 11-17-2010, 07:15 AM   #16
Art-n-Marge
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So is this technician implying the hitch is not for the older and feeble types to operate? It always kinda humored me to see a handicap placard on a big RV or TV and then watching (with respect, mind you) as the old, or near crippled gentleman got into his TV with a nice 5er on the truck wondering how hard of a time he had. I suppose he's not using a Pull-Rite hitch. Personally, I'm glad to see that even some with some level of handicap are able to enjoy the RV lifestyle, but with the science of levers and engineering, I would hope that the hitch should not require a weightlifter to operate one. There are plenty of considerations on grading a hitch as superb and usability has got to be up there.

I think that technician was trying to prove his point on a Pull Right's strength by using the wrong justification.

Just my thoughts, but my cheap hitch seems to do the job just fine and I expect that it will do so for quite a while. While it does not have any slide, nylon runners, air bags or springs it is easy to pull the latch arm. When I tire of the chunking, clunking and body wear and tear from its cheapness, and seek better features, that latch still better be relatively easy to pull.
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Old 11-17-2010, 01:05 PM   #17
Lee F.
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I believe hamcamper is talking about turning the hitch, not pullung the latch handle to open it. The latch handle works quite easy.
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Old 11-17-2010, 02:02 PM   #18
Art-n-Marge
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Hmmm, I reread his post. I did misunderstand something. He was talking about trying to move the hitch. Not having a Pull-Rite I don't understand and don't really need to because I don't know what you mean when you say "turning the hitch" either.

My apologies for my mixup. It must be a good hitch, too, because there have been posts in other forums where they will look for a truck that supports a Pullrite and not buy a particular year of model that doesn't. That's dedicated loyalty!
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:43 AM   #19
sreigle
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I emailed Pullrite some pictures of our capture plate and they agreed the base was not properly prepared for the powder coating process. This hitch is 2 1/2 years old but they still sent me a brand new capture plate at absolutely no cost to me.

Also, I emailed asking when a retrofit kit will be available for the new plastic base that requires only wd-40 for lubrication. I'll paste their reply here...
----
As of right now we do not have a release date for the retro fit kit. I am also unsure of the cost of this kit as a cost and release date has not yet been determined.

When you move over to the new cam assembly you will not have to remove the slip plate off of the way tubes as this coating will not hinder the operation of the plastic wear plates.

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