Wall Stud Cut by Camping World

[lkennerly]

We took our 2017 3160RL Montana to Camping World to install our Spendide Vented Dryer. (We did not want a washer.) We know we could install it ourselves, but we were afraid to try to cut the 4" hole through the side wall. We were no satisfied on multiple levels with the work, but the main problem is we discovered they cut through an exterior wall stud when cutting the 4" hole for the dryer vent. This was discovered this past weekend when we removed the dryer to re-install it the way we had requested them to do it. We discovered they had spliced the 6' section of flex vent line and done a very poor job, so we replaced it. When we pulled off the exterior vent we discovered they completely cut through a stud. I am supposed to take it to them next week to evaluate if there was structural damage. If the stud was not needed then why was it there? I have attached pictures showing the severed stud and an exterior shot showing the location on the nose sidewall. Several of the pictures need to be rotated to properly show the vertical stud. The dryer was supposed to be mounted on a shelf as high as they could get it in the closet instead they set it on the closet floor and cut the vent at floor level. I wanted to get opinions from the forum prior to discussing this with them next week. Thanks for any input.

[mtlakejim]

Hate to see this happen to you. I strongly suspect your the victim of the 20 something clueless RV tech at a sales dealership?? That's why I promote the idea of having all work done at a SERVICE only business where most of the time you get a tech that knows better.


That stud was dead center of the hole. Cutting from one far side to the other they should have known it was there and been able to make the hole with the stud on the edge? I touched the edge of a stud on my install but was able to change the holes center to keep it from being an issue. Not to mention they could have used a stud finder?


Keystone really needs to step up and start accurately marking the exact location for dryer vent installations. It would be so easy for them since they should know exactly where the studs are. I can say from experience that the little stickers they put on the walls are NOT properly placed!!!

[DQDick]

May need a lawyer, that's going to take some serious bucks to fix right.

[Montana Man]

I'm feeling your pain, and sorry it happened. The thought that comes to mind is to get tubing that will fit inside the existing stud and rivet it in. Re-cut the hole enough to clear the stud but it would require a custom made (wider) vent to hide the damage.

I would also have CW put in writing placing any future structural problems in that area as their responsibility. After getting a refund for their labor.

[Vet4jdc]

Get your money refunded.

Have CW document their mistake in writing as Montana Man said for future dealing with Keystone.

Fix the mistake like this:

1. Get a piece of 3/8" thick cabinet grade plywood.
2. Cut the plywood to fit in your closet so that at least 12" of it is above the hole and 12" below. The total length will be approximately 36" long and 16" wide total.
3. Cover the back side of the plywood with liquid nails.
4. Center the plywood on the hole and install machine screws through the plywood and into the stud top and bottom. Install the screws through the stud and inside wall only and not through the exterior.
5. Install the screws into the stud at 2" on center so that you have at least six screws above the hole and six screws below the hole.
6. You have now basically "laced" the stud back together structurally. Six screws are actually stronger than the light gage stud.
7. Install additional studs at all four corners of the plywood to keep it attached to the inside closet wall.
8. Drill the hole in the plywood for the vent to go through.
9. Paint the plywood to a color closely matching your interior finish.

I understand you will now have a piece of plywood that is seen from your closet but it is behind the dryer. Although it will be difficult to look at from an owner perspective, it will structurally hold the wall and stud together. It is not an answer for the stupidity of CW but will keep your camper from flexing and causing additional damage.

[mlh]

This can’t be fixed but it can be successfully patched. Make a piece of aluminum as wide and as long as possible and 3/16 or 1/4 thick. Put a 4 Inch hole in the center or as close as the wall permits. Then put 2, 1/4 holes in the plate in the center the of the stud 2 inches apart and several 3/16 holes in the center of the stud over and under the over the 4 inch hole. Now make 2 pieces of aluminum wide enough and about a 1/2 inch thick to fit in the stud about 3.5 inches long. Drill and tap 2 1/4 holes to correspond to the holes in the plate.
Now that the parts are made coat the plate with silicone caulking put it on the wall. Drill through one side of the wall and stud with a 1/4 drill and insert the 1/2’inck pieces in the stud and fasten the plate with 4 1/4 X 3/4 long bolts. Drill the wall and put 3/16 medal screws in the remaining 3/16 holes.
This won’t fix the stud but will stabilize the wall and with the silicone to glue it to the wall it will never come loose and fix the wall almost good as new.
Lynwood

[mlh]

Originally Posted by Vet4jdc

Get your money refunded.

Have CW document their mistake in writing as Montana Man said for future dealing with Keystone.

Fix the mistake like this:

1. Get a piece of 3/8" thick cabinet grade plywood.
2. Cut the plywood to fit in your closet so that at least 12" of it is above the hole and 12" below. The total length will be approximately 36" long and 16" wide total.
3. Cover the back side of the plywood with liquid nails.
4. Center the plywood on the hole and install machine screws through the plywood and into the stud top and bottom. Install the screws through the stud and inside wall only and not through the exterior.
5. Install the screws into the stud at 2" on center so that you have at least six screws above the hole and six screws below the hole.
6. You have now basically "laced" the stud back together structurally. Six screws are actually stronger than the light gage stud.
7. Install additional studs at all four corners of the plywood to keep it attached to the inside closet wall.
8. Drill the hole in the plywood for the vent to go through.
9. Paint the plywood to a color closely matching your interior finish.

I understand you will now have a piece of plywood that is seen from your closet but it is behind the dryer. Although it will be difficult to look at from an owner perspective, it will structurally hold the wall and stud together. It is not an answer for the stupidity of CW but will keep your camper from flexing and causing additional damage.

That is close to the way I would fix it. This is the difference between a carpenter and a machinist. Either way will work but I would silicone it to the wall.
You posted this as I was hunting and pecking.
Lynwood

[Theunz]

Rivets will just loosen up, it needs to be welded. I would have them remove the wall from inside the bedroom and completely box around the hole by welding in additional tubing. Going to be an expensive repair. Idiots!

[Vet4jdc]

Originally Posted by mlh

This can’t be fixed but it can be successfully patched. Make a piece of aluminum as wide and as long as possible and 3/16 or 1/4 thick. Put a 4 Inch hole in the center or as close as the wall permits. Then put 2, 1/4 holes in the plate in the center the of the stud 2 inches apart and several 3/16 holes in the center of the stud over and under the over the 4 inch hole. Now make 2 pieces of aluminum wide enough and about a 1/2 inch thick to fit in the stud about 3.5 inches long. Drill and tap 2 1/4 holes to correspond to the holes in the plate.
Now that the parts are made coat the plate with silicone caulking put it on the wall. Drill through one side of the wall and stud with a 1/4 drill and insert the 1/2’inck pieces in the stud and fasten the plate with 4 1/4 X 3/4 long bolts. Drill the wall and put 3/16 medal screws in the remaining 3/16 holes.
This won’t fix the stud but will stabilize the wall and with the silicone to glue it to the wall it will never come loose and fix the wall almost good as new.
Lynwood

Spot on Lynwood! 35 years in structural engineering here. We can't always replace a metal stud but we can come up with a way to reinforce one. We are definitely on the same page just a different paragraph!

[Vet4jdc]

Originally Posted by Theunz

Rivets will just loosen up, it needs to be welded. I would have them remove the wall from inside the bedroom and completely box around the hole by welding in additional tubing. Going to be an expensive repair. Idiots!

Excellent idea if it can be accessed inside.

[mlh]

Originally Posted by Vet4jdc

Spot on Lynwood! 35 years in structural engineering here. We can't always replace a metal stud but we can come up with a way to reinforce one. We are definitely on the same page just a different paragraph!

35 years is that all. 55 years of machine shop here.
Lynwood

[Montana Man]

Originally Posted by Theunz

Rivets will just loosen up, it needs to be welded. I would have them remove the wall from inside the bedroom and completely box around the hole by welding in additional tubing. Going to be an expensive repair. Idiots!

Aircraft hold up pretty good with rivets, not talking about Harbor Freight aluminum pop rivets here. Welding is fine but would require excessive surgery to attain a weld zone wide enough for access and avoid heat damage.

A scab patch, in avaition terms, as discussed is good. I wouldn't do it leaving any laminate between the patch and aluminum frame. Perhaps patch with aluminum directly to the aluminum frame then a matching laminate over it for asthetics.

[lkennerly]

Thanks for the confirmation of the patch. My husband is a structural engineer and he said the patch could work, but we are afraid the cut is too close to the floor. The patch design may have to be modified. We were afraid to let Camping World do anything. They are supposed to discuss the issue with Keystone. I am not sure who could do the repair correctly other than Keystone. With your experience do you think it is safe to travel with it or should it stay parked until repaired? We have been nauseated by this; we love this trailer and live to escape in it.

[mlh]

You are safe to travel. Your husband being a SE he should be able to draw a blue print of what he needs to fix the problem. Then take it to a machine shop and have it made. If I can help let me know. I could at least make the aluminum blocks that would go in studs.
I think you are right I wouldn’t take it back to CW. and I doubt Keystone will be much help it’s CWs problem.
Lynwood

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by mtlakejim

...


Keystone really needs to step up and start accurately marking the exact location for dryer vent installations. It would be so easy for them since they should know exactly where the studs are. I can say from experience that the little stickers they put on the walls are NOT properly placed!!!

I'm sorry that this happened to you, BUT, at the end of the day, Keystone needs to put a mark on the wall where you should drill the hole. While we don't have a washer/dryer in ours, I would be scared to death to drill that hole in the wall, for fear of exactly what happened here...

[Mtncrash1]

My question is if these units come prepped for washer and dryer why doesn’t it come pre vented? They could already have the vent installed with a piece of insulation stuffed inside it and, an access panel on the inside. I haven’t looked at getting a washer and dryer as it will put me over on weight so, not sure if the dryers are universal for install or not.

[CADman_KS]

Originally Posted by Mtncrash1

My question is if these units come prepped for washer and dryer why doesn’t it come pre vented? They could already have the vent installed with a piece of insulation stuffed inside it and, an access panel on the inside. I haven’t looked at getting a washer and dryer as it will put me over on weight so, not sure if the dryers are universal for install or not.

Yeah, I thought this exact same thing as well. BUT, after thinking about it, I think that I would rather have a mark of where to cut, and cut after the fact. That way, if you're someone who doesn't want a washer / dryer, you don't have a leak point there.

My $.02...

[lkennerly]

There was a sticker at the upper part of the wall and CW choose to ignore it. They also ignored our instructions to install on a shelf mounted as high as possible instead putting it on the closet floor. On a positive note, if they had mounted on the shelf as instructed we would have never discovered all their incompetent mistakes.

[mlh]

If it’s close to the floor turn an L in the aluminum patch and screw it to the floor. That will make it as good as new.
Lynwood

[richfaa]

Both our 06 3400 and our 13 3402 was clearly marked by Keystone as to were to cut the hole for the dryer vent. CW messed up.