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05-12-2015, 04:48 PM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Depends on temps
Posts: 1,648
M.O.C. #13157
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Wheel Bearing Packing
Hello All,
Got about 12K miles on the original bearings. Had them packed a few days ago. Said they were fine, but were really in need of cleaning and packing.
The original packing of grease from Dexter is pretty thin.
So, just a reminder, summer is coming, if you have not packed those bearings yet, put it on your list.
Jim
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2012 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 4x4 3.73 Tow Max Pkg B&W Companion 60 gal RDS aux fuel tank. 2014 Montana 3150RL, 2 A/C's, Leather, 6 Point Jacks, Splendede WD2100XC, Mor/ryde X-Factor, Duravis 250 tires with TST 507RV monitors. 2 x Honda EU2000's
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05-13-2015, 12:44 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Hanover
Posts: 1,471
M.O.C. #13325
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Did mine & the wet bolts myself three weeks ago using Dexter's directions for them. Very easy to do, but I went through almost a roll of paper towels and 2 1/2 tubes of grease. Only thing to be careful of is the inside lip of both the wheel center cap and the bearing cap - those things will cut your fingers easily when cleaning out the old grease!
After reading at least five different stories about people who had service places 'repack' EZ-Lube hubs only to find they had blown seals and greased brakes a few miles down the road, this is something I prefer to do on my own.
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05-13-2015, 06:27 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Washington Coast
Posts: 2,688
M.O.C. #10696
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Yep did it a few days ago,it is easy doing it yourself with a hand grease gun and yep 2 tubes of grease for me too,hey Walt you got that right about the Cut fingers on the hub lips I get cut Every time you would think I would learn by now BUT.....NOOOOOOOO
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05-14-2015, 04:44 AM
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#4
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Silverdale
Posts: 275
M.O.C. #7117
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Jimmy, seems as though you and I learn at about the same pace...
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05-14-2015, 06:47 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Washington Coast
Posts: 2,688
M.O.C. #10696
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Yeah I an too freak'in Hyper and could of sliced all my fingers on one hand and I would still do the same thing the next time just with the other fingers
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Glenn the fifth
Jimmy, seems as though you and I learn at about the same pace...
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05-14-2015, 05:39 PM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: billings
Posts: 110
M.O.C. #12853
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I watched the dexter video on repacking the bearings. They said to use RTV sealent on the edge of seals if they aren't rubber. The seals I bought look like they have rubber on them but how do I know if I need the sealent. The other part of the process is to torque the retaining nut to 50 ft/lbs and then back off and then hand tighten and back off 1/4 turn. How hard do you hand tighten? In the video it didn't look they applied much force to it but if you do it every day you would proablably have some arm and hand strength. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I am planning to do the bearings this weekend.
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05-15-2015, 04:11 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Haysville
Posts: 4,261
M.O.C. #3085
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Just my thoughts, but the only time I would worry about applying RTV on a wheel seal would be if it were on a boat trailer that gets submerged in water at the boat ramp. Dexter seemingly thinks differently. Most wheel seals today have a teflon like layer on the outer diameter anyways.
As for tightening the nut on your brake drums ... the 50 ftlb figure then back off is more for a new bearing/race installation, but if you have a torque wrench it won't hurt to go that route. People that have chinched up the wheel bearing nuts for a while just use water pump pliers and a flip of the wrist while spinning the brake drum. If you have a cotter pin setup instead of the newer spring washer lock ... never tighten the nut to the next available slot ... go a bit looser to the next slot down. Get the nut wrist snug ... don't reef down on it like you would a bolt holding something together.
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05-15-2015, 06:49 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Eugene
Posts: 1,050
M.O.C. #5091
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Had my trailer in for new galley tank and also wheel bearing pack. Got call from dealer saying I needed new brake pads and would better to replace complete unit on each wheel. Said they had been over heated and damaged brake shoes. Total price for new backing plates with brake shoes and turning drums estimate is $1300. Guess I am setup to tight on my braking going up and down those 6% grades in the Northwest. Think I only have about 35,000 miles on trailer. Wish I had exhaust brake on my truck, or I need to downshift more and let the engine do the slowing down.
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05-15-2015, 04:43 PM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: billings
Posts: 110
M.O.C. #12853
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dieselguy
Just my thoughts, but the only time I would worry about applying RTV on a wheel seal would be if it were on a boat trailer that gets submerged in water at the boat ramp. Dexter seemingly thinks differently. Most wheel seals today have a teflon like layer on the outer diameter anyways.
As for tightening the nut on your brake drums ... the 50 ftlb figure then back off is more for a new bearing/race installation, but if you have a torque wrench it won't hurt to go that route. People that have chinched up the wheel bearing nuts for a while just use water pump pliers and a flip of the wrist while spinning the brake drum. If you have a cotter pin setup instead of the newer spring washer lock ... never tighten the nut to the next available slot ... go a bit looser to the next slot down. Get the nut wrist snug ... don't reef down on it like you would a bolt holding something together.
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Dieselguy thanks for the advice! I have a tendancy to over tighten so a great explanation on the wrench technique. I thougth the sealant seemed odd. I will have to wait for another weekend on the bearings supposed to rain all weekend here. Thanks again.
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