High park water pressure

[Billhorn]

Would only opening the park spiqot a little reduce the pressure to the camper?
I have a pressure regulater coming but the campfire discussions seem divided if not opening the water valve all the way would reduce the pressure on the lines.

[jimcol]

Opening the spigot a little will only reduce the volume of water that can flow but does nothing to reduce the pressure.

[BB_TX]

If you have water flowing, then yes your line pressure would be a little lower than the supply pressure. But when there is no flow, your line pressure will quickly build up to what ever the supply pressure is.

[DQDick]

If it were me, I'd work from my fresh water tank using the pump until you got the regulator. Have been in several parks over the years where a number of rigs all sprung leaks due to excess pressure.

[jsb5717]

We’ve been in parks with posted PSI of 100 or more while others may have only 30. We’ve always carried and used a pressure regulator. A good adjustable one should be basic equipment for every RVer. If you don’t have one then don’t connect to the spigot. As suggested, fill your tank and work off of that until you get the regulator.

[DutchmenSport]

Many, many years ago when we first purchased our Springdale Travel Trailer, we were at a KOA in Kentucky. When we got there the park office manager told us we'd need a pressure regulator as the water pressure in the entire park was over 100 psi and if we did not use one, their water pressure would most likely blow out our water lines, as it's happened to others.

All I had was one of those cheap-o ones that connect to your garden hose that they give you when you first purchase a new RV as part of their starter packet. They guy told me not to trust it.

What to do?

While setting up camp for the night, I decided right then and there to just fill my fresh water tank and use the on-board pump as it was designed to regulate a safe pressure for the camper water lines. So I did. And ... because of that experience that put an indelible mark on my memory forever, I have never hooked up to city water and used city water water pressure in my camper (even at home, where I know my water pressure is about 40 psi).... I have since always filled my fresh water tank and used the on-board water pump. I don't have any pressure regulator(s) at all any more. Don't need them and never intend to use a direct connection to shore water.

Play it safe as others have suggested above, and use your on-board water tank and pump. That's what its there for.

Besides, if you ever spring a leak, or have a drip at the water heater, or you toilet continues to run ever so slightly, not enough to even detect it, or you leave the outside shower turned on, but the sprayer head off and it drips a little, when running off the water pump, you will always hear the pump when it kicks on. It takes only about 3 ounces of water to lower the pressure in your water lines enough for the water pump to kick on, and only 3 ounces to turn it back off. So, if you hear the water pump cycling, you immediately know you've got water running somewhere. Catching it when only 3 ounces drips out is a lot better than having 3000 gallons of water pouring out your underbelly before you even are aware you have a leak, because there absolutely no sound to warn you.

Because of the pressure and because of being able to actually hear when water is running, is why I used only my fresh water tank.... always.

[Daryles]

Another good reason to use a pressure regulator is the black plastic anti siphon vacuum breaker valve under bathroom sink is only rated foe 55psi.
They are prone to leaking anyway and you should replace it as soon as you can (but that's another story).
If you put more than 55psi on your black tank flush system you will find water on the floor of your bathroom cabinet.

[mhs4771]

Dutchman, while that way works for you, many of the newer units do not have a gravity fill port, you must hookup park water to use the power fill, so while not putting the full pressure to your entire system, it would still be on the lines going to the fresh water tank.

[Trevor]

So what is the optimal water pressure for those of us who use city water hookup?

[twindman]

I think 50-60 psi or less. I have mine set at around 50 or 55.

[jsb5717]

The basic, non-adjustable regulators are at 45psi. I set my adjustable one at 45-50psi.

[mhs4771]

If you have the thetford rv toilet they say with 60 psi the valve might not hold resulting in an overflowing toilet. Don't ask me how I know.
Now refuse to hookup without my regulator.

[rohrmann]

Another weak point is water filters, not just the blue inline filters but also the cartridge type filters, as they are usually rated at 60 psi or less.

[RMcNeal]

Originally Posted by mhs4771

Dutchman, while that way works for you, many of the newer units do not have a gravity fill port, you must hookup park water to use the power fill, so while not putting the full pressure to your entire system, it would still be on the lines going to the fresh water tank.

Thanks for this. I was wondering how filling their tank would avoid the high pressure. Still gotta get water in there somehow. We haven't had a gravity fill tank in years, so it didn't occur to me.

[Theunz]

[QUOTE=RMcNeal;1262535]Thanks for this. I was wondering how filling their tank would avoid the high pressure. Still gotta get water in there somehow. We haven't had a gravity fill tank in years, so it didn't occur to me.

I don’t know about the newer units, but on my 2015 I believe that you can slide the overfill cap on the side of the trailer off and fill there.

[RMcNeal]

Yeah, I've heard of that solution, but my overflow is just a small piece of tubing, so it would take forever to get the fresh tank filled and it would spill water everywhere while doing so.
I looked into that option before I purchased a bladder tank and small pump to fill my fresh tank while hunting in WV in November. The CG is turned off in October, so no water at the site.

[Lee-CI]

I guess I'm old school as well. We power fill our tank from the CG supply. In my mind the open ended fill line going to the fresh water tank won't see the full supply pressure since there would be little restriction to see the pressure on the line. Doesn't really matter though as once the FW tank is filled, the onboard pump is a welcomed tattle tail to let me know if I ever have a water leak within the coach. And yes - fellow campers look at me with curiosity when after arrival and filling our tank, I disconnect the hose, drain it and put it away. This entire scenario would likely have a different twist to is if we had a W/D installed, but for now our preference is COEs - no FHU... YMMV
Happy camping everyone!

[BB_TX]

By only slightly opening the park faucet, you can use the power fill to fill the fresh water tank as long as you have the switch set to power fill when you open the park faucet. As long as water is flowing and the park faucet is only slightly open, your line pressure will not go up to full supply pressure. Sort of like a lawn sprinkler with the faucet barely open. Just remember to turn off the park faucet off (and leave it off or disconnected) before you turn the power fill switch back to normal.

[Foldbak]

I never thought of being concerned about the water pressure while filling my fresh water tank. Static pressure is fluid standing still or not moving. So 60 PSI at the source would be 60 PSI in your plumbing with all valves closed. Dynamic pressure is calculated differently and as long as it's moving will be lower. So even at 100 PSI it wouldn't concern me. Now above 100 PSI I might be worried. Here in CA. dam near every public water spigot has a built in flow regulator that reduces the PSI. I always use a regulator for city water regardless. Nobody want's to wake to a flooded trailer