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Old 11-23-2020, 01:05 PM   #1
MAMalody
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2016 F350 Overheating

I have a 2016 F 350 diesel. Yesterday I was taking my wife to lunch and the heater would not come on (cold air blew out) and them shortly after that I got a engine overheating warning. Turned on the heater (cold air came out) and limped home. On the way home I notice the guage would go towards cool (about 1/2 way between normal and hot) and then a little later would go hot, then do it again. I am missing a little from my radiator overflow tank (or whatever it is called) however nothing on the ground under the pickup. All worked great a week or so ago when I drove it last. What's up?
 
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Old 11-23-2020, 01:32 PM   #2
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Stuck thermostat ?, did you hear that monster fan engage ?
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Old 11-23-2020, 01:49 PM   #3
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Do you have a code reader just in case there is a fault somewhere?

Otherwise:
Bad thermostat?
Bad temp sensor?
Faulty gauge?
Faulty fan motor or switch?
Something plugged in the radiator?


Still could be low coolant. Also check your oil to see if it's got any water in it. Heaven forbid you have a bad head gasket.
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Old 11-23-2020, 03:47 PM   #4
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The first and easiest thing to check is to see if it is low on coolant. If the heater coil don’t get coolant to it, no heat can get out.
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Old 11-23-2020, 05:55 PM   #5
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Check under the water pump for the orange coolant. Mine was leaking and never hit the ground.
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Old 11-24-2020, 07:21 AM   #6
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Once you have determined the "easy" things from a code reading device, then you need to look at physical items.


- A bad radiator cap will cause a top hose collapse. After a drive, wait a few minutes, pop the hood and give it a check. Replace that top hose and both primary and secondary caps at the same time. This was something that cause me some angst a couple years back



- This vintage Ford may have a failed radiator top or bottom tank, losing significant coolant. Ford will only replace it with another just like the failed unit. There is a good after market unit, Mishimoto but it is way more costly



- One of the thermostats has failed - there are two and both should be replaced if one has failed.


There are other things like plugged exhaust or DPF filter but they will normally show up via a code reader
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Old 11-24-2020, 08:19 AM   #7
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Cold air from heater and engine overheating and gauge moving a little from hot toward normal and back to hot again sure sounds like low coolant. Will do that if the little coolant left is sometimes picked up and pumped until the pump runs short again. After the engine is completely cooled, open the radiator cap and see the level.

Have you had the coolant changed according to the manual?
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Old 11-24-2020, 02:58 PM   #8
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Okay. I just purchased some coolant so I will start there making sure everything is topped of. Along with that I will use my code reader (I forgot I had one, jeez) and see if anything shows up. The engine sounded the same and the fan appeared to be working okay. I did not check for hose collapse - I will look at that. Looks like this weekend could be busy. Thanks for the help. I will get back with the results in a coupe of days so we will know what worked or didn't and go from there. Thanks again and you guys have a great Thanksgiving and stay sage.
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Old 11-24-2020, 03:10 PM   #9
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Look at the coolant line going to the turbo. It fails and all the coolant that leaks evaporates. Also look at the main radiator on the left and right edges for orange staining where the plastic end caps are clamped to the aluminum body of the radiator. It's hard to see, but it's another weak point in the system prone to leaks.

Also, don't expect to find any codes for cooling system concerns. It's not going to pinpoint the problem. You'll have to do the visual tests. Filling the system to full is the first step. Watching the levels and actually loss rate is the next.
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Old 11-24-2020, 03:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAMalody View Post
Okay. I just purchased some coolant so I will start there making sure everything is topped of. Along with that I will use my code reader (I forgot I had one, jeez) and see if anything shows up. The engine sounded the same and the fan appeared to be working okay. I did not check for hose collapse - I will look at that. Looks like this weekend could be busy. Thanks for the help. I will get back with the results in a coupe of days so we will know what worked or didn't and go from there. Thanks again and you guys have a great Thanksgiving and stay sage.

That fan has an electronically operated clutch. Turning it by hane wont give you any incation of how it works. Not an inexpensive part or installation labor wisw.


If you have a generic OBD reader, it may not work with a Ford diesel.



Let us know what you find
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Old 11-24-2020, 03:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by MAMalody View Post
Okay. I just purchased some coolant so I will start there making sure everything is topped of. ........
Did you get the special Motorcraft orange coolant specified for the 6.7?
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Old 11-24-2020, 04:02 PM   #12
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Did you get the special Motorcraft orange coolant specified for the 6.7?

The wrong coolant can be a very expensive mistake, read new engine when your cylinders develop pin holes in them.
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Old 11-24-2020, 05:16 PM   #13
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Did you get the special Motorcraft orange coolant specified for the 6.7?

They don't make the orange anymore. It's been superseded by a new yellow coolant.
Here's a good explanation:
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Old 11-24-2020, 05:16 PM   #14
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The wrong coolant can be a very expensive mistake, read new engine when your cylinders develop pin holes in them.
Lynwood
You can’t just grab a jug of Prestone any more. Even our Expedition gasser specifies a special antifreeze.
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Old 11-24-2020, 06:07 PM   #15
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Of course Bill is right. A diesel is more critical. When any diesel from a small eco car to a 6000 HP locomotive fires the cylinders vibrate causing tiny bubbles to form on the outside of the cylinders. These bubbles eat pin holes that will eventually eat through the cylinder walls. The 7.3 Power Stroke Ford was especially bad for this. The cylinders were thin and they could be ruined in a hundred thousand miles.
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Old 11-25-2020, 05:23 AM   #16
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You can’t just grab a jug of Prestone any more. Even our Expedition gasser specifies a special antifreeze.

As long as you meet the spec that Ford requires, you can use virtually any brand coolant. And yes, Prestone does have a coolant that meets spec and at about 1/2 the price of Motorcraft and it's usually available at Walmart.
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Old 11-25-2020, 07:55 AM   #17
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As long as you meet the spec that Ford requires, you can use virtually any brand coolant. And yes, Prestone does have a coolant that meets spec and at about 1/2 the price of Motorcraft and it's usually available at Walmart.
Yeah, I was just thinking about the "old days" when one antifreeze was used for every thing and all you had to do was grab a jug without looking to see what color it was.
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Old 11-25-2020, 08:06 AM   #18
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Yeah, I was just thinking about the "old days" when one antifreeze was used for every thing and all you had to do was grab a jug without looking to see what color it was.

As the Muppet said about "it's not easy bein Green"


Ford has gone through a rainbow of coolant colors in the past 20 or so years. I still have a jug plus of Zerex gold left over from my '06 V10 but now use it in my '31 Ford 5.0 powered street rod since it sits unused a lot.
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Old 11-25-2020, 04:32 PM   #19
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Just make sure and use distilled water, regular water has to many minerals in it. That will cause pitting and eat the coolant passage ways.
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Old 11-29-2020, 01:55 PM   #20
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When cold air is blowing when heater is on it means coolant is not flowing. Either low, or a hose or the water pump. Could beva blocked heater core, but i doubt it.. Check coolant level. Then water pump..
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