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Old 02-05-2015, 05:07 AM   #21
jfaberna
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I use the hardwired version of the Progressive Industries unit:

http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems_hw50c.htm
 
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Old 02-05-2015, 05:44 AM   #22
8.1al
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With the Progressive hardwired unit you just replace board, no need to return or replace the whole thing
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Old 02-05-2015, 11:44 AM   #23
Ozz
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 8.1al

With the Progressive hardwired unit you just replace board, no need to return or replace the whole thing
ahh, good to know. Some may find that a daunting task, but I think most would be Ok with it. What is the cost of the board?
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:51 PM   #24
8.1al
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I don't have a clue about the cost Ozz
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:20 PM   #25
Ozz
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I looked at the 'Innards' of the device, it is all crammed in there, two boards on the same side, it would be easy to bend, or break something taking it out and re-installing it.
Hopefully someone will chime in that has performed the task. I do like the idea of owner-replacement of the affected part.

OK, one screw it says..
http://www.loveyourrv.com/update-to-...tector-review/

No word on the cost yet... evidently free...

Ripped off another forum:

Add me to the Progressive fan list. I have the hard wired 50A unit.

This company is positively stellar! Every unit Progressive sells now has a lifetime warranty. They even apply it to their older units. My unit was installed by a previous owner in about 2006 or so, and the documentation explicitly states that it is warranted for 5 years. Mine recently stopped functioning properly, but when I called Progressive they never even asked how old it was. They didn't ask when I bought it, the serial number, or where. They only asked the symptoms and my address, and then they sent me two replacement circuit boards at no charge. If it has their name on it and its broken, they'll fix it. Period.

As an added note, bear in mind that an actual power surge is about the least likely electrical event you might encounter. Other anomalies like high or low voltage, lost neutral, etc., are far more likely and arguably more damaging in the long run, though less spectacular. A high quality EMS will protect your coach from all of these events.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:35 PM   #26
CORattler
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Installing a HW50C was the very 1st mod I made to our Montana. I installed it before I ever took it out for the maiden voyage. I WILL NOT be without it! Great company.
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:25 PM   #27
Mark N.
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Is a hardwired unit tough to install? Where do they go? I have a 3402RL and I have no idea of how the electrical service feed routes through the coach.
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Old 02-06-2015, 01:40 AM   #28
Ozz
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Hi Mark,
The place would probably be where the main power line comes into the breaker box. I bet the line has enough slack to pull the box out so you can see the line. (My 3400RL does) It would be tough to wire and install without proper slack in any unit.
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Old 02-06-2015, 04:01 AM   #29
Irlpguy
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Mark N.

Is a hardwired unit tough to install? Where do they go? I have a 3402RL and I have no idea of how the electrical service feed routes through the coach.
Mark I have a 1012 - 3402RL and expect the wiring will be very similar to your 3400. I installed mine behind the basement wall on the door side, there are (in mine) two removable plywood panels, I removed both, the small one with the power and TV hookup had enough slack in the cables to get out of the way. The main power cable had plenty of slack and I mounted the unit on a piece of plywood then to the aluminum frame under the bathroom.

The most difficult part is working with those really heavy wires and getting the two hots through the loops to read the current to each. It is a really small box for all that is inside it. I removed the thermostat and brought the remote wire up that hole and mounted the display above it.

If I can find the pictures I will post them later today.

They are a fantastic company and were quick to have someone answer a question I had after install regarding a humming noise from the unit which they said was perfectly normal.



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Old 02-06-2015, 05:11 AM   #30
Tom S.
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There is one currently listed in the For Sale section, but no price.
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Old 02-06-2015, 11:33 AM   #31
Ozz
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I think he is asking for offers, best offer.
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Old 02-06-2015, 12:28 PM   #32
Tom S.
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Ozz

I think he is asking for offers, best offer.
Not any more. Says: SOLD.
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Old 02-06-2015, 12:45 PM   #33
Mark N.
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Now I am wondering if I want the hardwired or pedestal mount. I am worried about having a problem with a hardwired unit, and having to remove it for warranty. How do you power the coach?
The only real downside I can see to the plug in model is theft potential, which could be somewhat mitigated by a cable lock that locks it to your shore power plug, making it inseparable from it without bolt cutters. That way too, it would just live on the end of the umbilical cord permanently, to avoid ever getting inadvertently left at an RV park. It would sure make warranty issues and installation easier to manage. Thoughts?
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Old 02-06-2015, 12:57 PM   #34
Ozz
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I have one for sale, will list it.
Mark, it is a factor, if you are not real handy and electrically savvy, it could be a problem... BUT, I have not read up or am knowledgeable at all on them, so I may be way off base on this.
I would think you would have to wire around the contactor, if the coil is fried, that would be definitely necessary.
The pedestal models have a locking mechanism that would slow them down, I have one with mine.
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Old 02-06-2015, 01:34 PM   #35
Samiterry
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Just finished replacing my 50A Surge Guard with an EMS HW50C. After plugging the camper into a 110v 20A receptacle, I got and E-9 on the data display, which is data error. Got on phone with tech support, and after doing several attempts to clear the error code, he determined the problem was with the data cable. Sent new data cable, installed data cable, result was E-9. Back on phone with tech support, and after several minutes, it dawned on me that I had plugged the camper into a GFCI receptacle. I told the tech this, and he said I didn't tell him it was pluggeg into a GFCI. I said, you didn't ask. Anyway, after plugging into "clean" power, no E-9. Data display was displaying normal data. So, moral of the story, when using any type of power protector, don't plug into a GFCI.
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Old 02-06-2015, 02:38 PM   #36
The Oldguard
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Must read
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Old 02-06-2015, 02:50 PM   #37
Mark N.
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quote:Originally posted by The Oldguard

Must read
thanks for the link. That pretty well seals the deal for me. I'm getting the pedestal mount! I'm not going to mess with an install, then worry about doing it all again and being without power if the hardwired one goes belly up and I have to replace things. I'm just going to cable lock one to my umbilical.
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Old 02-06-2015, 03:15 PM   #38
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For what it is worth, I have had the same hardwired unit for over six years now, and it has saved us from who knows how much damage over that time. I have transferred it through the progression of our three Montana's and have never feared a catastrophic failure. If it happens, it happens, but I truly believe that most campground receptacles are in pretty decent shape. From my experience, most of our interruptions have been from brown-out conditions associated with excessive loads at large campgrounds (in particular Myrtle Beach commercial campgrounds and older parks). If the unit totally failed, I would simply buy a cheap unit (surge guard only) until the primary unit was replaced. I invested at the time over $400 in the unit which to date has not failed me. Keep in mind the primary purpose is protection of thousands of dollars worth of electrical equipment and a $100 investment to last through the replacement time due to a catastrophic failure seems trivial to me. Just my opinion!! Sometimes over thinking things is more detrimental than the primary purpose of these devices. I will not be without protection!!
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Old 02-07-2015, 02:31 AM   #39
Ozz
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When I get time. I have to make a slide-show, I will show how to by-pass the (broken) control temporarily in 5 minutes without touching any wires. (Until you get the defective time-delay board, or Logic board.
I have done the same temporary by-pass for 30 years in my A/C business.
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Old 02-07-2015, 05:25 AM   #40
Irlpguy
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Mark N. it appears you have made your decision on which electrical protection model to buy and it certainly has it's advantages such as being able to take it with you if you trade up, unplugging it and going directly into the park pedestal and cost. It also has disadvantages like potential theft, not having the ability to monitor your power usage on each line from within the RV.

Something not mentioned so far is the fact that with the hardwired unit you can turn the "bypass" switch off on the remote monitor, this bypasses the internal circuit boards and "all" protection with the exception of the surge protection ceases. This allows you to still have power to your RV should the control board fail.

At any rate here is a picture of my hard wired unit installed and how and where I mounted the remote display/control. I had plenty of slack cable in the main line to accomplish the install. My only complaint is the room within the box to route wires, a somewhat larger box would make the install even easier.









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