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Old 02-14-2023, 11:19 AM   #1
Robotman
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Water heater electrical switch

I have a 2009 Montana 3075. The water heater works on gas but doesnt' work on electrical. I have checked the element and it has 10 ohms. I checked the thermal switches and they both show conductivity. When i switch the 110vac on there is no voltage at the element or the thermal switches. I beleive it is the power switch is faulty. I have watched water heater replacement videos and all of them show access to the water lines in the back of the heater tank. Question, how do I access the back of the water heater? If i just need to replace the power switch is there an easy way to do it? Thanks
 
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Old 02-14-2023, 12:33 PM   #2
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I'm not sure what you are calling the thermal switches. The A/C switch on the front of my water heater went bad. It just pries out. Found a replacement at Loew's I think, maybe Westlake/Ace. Until I could get the replacement I used the pop top off a beverage can to connect the two spades together, taped it up good and kept on camping.
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Old 02-14-2023, 02:19 PM   #3
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Thanks, too easy. Ordered a new switch from Amazon.
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Old 02-14-2023, 02:20 PM   #4
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So in the future, if I need to replace water heater, how do I get access to the back of the tank to disconnect the hoses? thanks
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Old 02-14-2023, 02:27 PM   #5
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So in the future, if I need to replace water heater, how do I get access to the back of the tank to disconnect the hoses? thanks
Most likely, you remove the back wall of the pass thru compartment on the passengers side to get access to the rear of the water heater. Some models requires access from an internal cabinet (by removing a shelf or wall). It all depends on where the WH is placed in the rig. I don't know where it is on a 3075.
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Old 02-14-2023, 02:30 PM   #6
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There is a Suburban water heater manual in the files section.
In it you will find the wiring diagram.
However, the wiring diagram does NOT show that the relay is mounted on the outside of the tank.
The inside switch operates the relay which allows 120vac through the outside switch and to the element.
Ifcyou have already measured 120vac through the outside switch but nothing at the element you need to check the relay.
To get to the relay you have to pull the water heater out about 6".
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Old 02-14-2023, 02:54 PM   #7
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If you have no power at the 120 volt thermostat, mounted on the left side of the 12 volt gas thermostat, or the element, there are a couple other possibilities. One is the little black power switch in the lower left corner on the outside of the water heater. That switch, shown in the photo, is mounted so ON is in the down position. With power turned off at the main panel breaker, the switch can be removed by prying it out to check that it is not burned.


The other possibility, and this is only if you have a switch inside the rig on your switch panel that shows Electric for your water heater, there would be a relay mounted on the side of your water heater that turns on 120 volts AC when the 12 volt relay is activated by that inside switch. That relay has been known to fail. Access to the relay usually requires at least partial removal of the water heater.
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Old 02-14-2023, 04:06 PM   #8
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If you have no power at the 120 volt thermostat, mounted on the left side of the 12 volt gas thermostat, or the element, there are a couple other possibilities. One is the little black power switch in the lower left corner on the outside of the water heater. That switch, shown in the photo, is mounted so ON is in the down position. With power turned off at the main panel breaker, the switch can be removed by prying it out to check that it is not burned.


The other possibility, and this is only if you have a switch inside the rig on your switch panel that shows Electric for your water heater, there would be a relay mounted on the side of your water heater that turns on 120 volts AC when the 12 volt relay is activated by that inside switch. That relay has been known to fail. Access to the relay usually requires at least partial removal of the water heater.
Thanks, I have ordered a new switch and I hope it fixes the problem. If not I will have to replace the relay. I have to pull the heater tank our about six inches, can I do this without having to disconnect water hoses in the back of the tank?
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Old 02-14-2023, 05:30 PM   #9
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There have also been some cases of burned wiring in the junction box on the side of the water heater that kept it from working on electric.

I had a 2007 3075RL. Mine did not have an inside switch for electric, only the one for gas. The little black switch outside on the water heater was the only way to turn it off and on.

Never had any problem with my WH so never had to look for back side. But there was no way for access from inside the trailer due to floor plan, so it had to be inside the pass thru.
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Old 02-14-2023, 06:06 PM   #10
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Maybe this helps figure out the access...
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Old 02-14-2023, 06:24 PM   #11
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Looking at photos on-line for your make and model, your water heater looks like it's located on the driver's side of the trailer and is located beside the refrigerator. I haven't found any photos of the inside, so I'm assuming there is a panel near the floor on the left side of the refrigerator (as you stand in front of it on the inside). Remove the screws that hold that panel on and the water heater should be behind it.

The photo above is the placement for the furnace (where the steps are located). Your water heater (and furnace) will always be vented to the outside and you can find either by the propane gas vent that fires off. You can't miss this when it fires off. Of course the appliance is directly behind that wall, accessed inside by removing a something (a cabinet panel) on the inside of the camper.

The other option is to pull the water heater completely out as in the photos above. That might not be necessary if you can access the back of it from the inside of the camper by removing a panel.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-14-2023, 07:18 PM   #12
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Maybe this helps figure out the access...
Interesting, Mike. Don’t know what year that picture is. But my 2007 3075RL furnace was on the curb side next to the door. My water heater was similar to that picture except farther forward. And inside under the TV (where your arrow points) was a cabinet with doors and shelves. I removed the doors and shelves and added a fireplace. And my shower and toilet were also flip flopped from that picture. Must be different for different years.
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Old 02-14-2023, 08:14 PM   #13
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I went to RV Trader and searched 2009 Montana 3075RL and 3 units come up.
Looked at the pics and the furnace and water heater were located on drivers side.
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Old 02-14-2023, 09:09 PM   #14
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Don't the water heaters have 2 resettable things behind circular rubber covers. I think you can push on them to reset them. And they are maybe < $30 if bad. I think one is gas and one electric.
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Old 02-14-2023, 10:17 PM   #15
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Maybe this helps figure out the access...
Thanks, that's exactly my trailer. I looked at the panel under the TV as you show and I don't see any screws or way of removing that panel. So I still need help on how to get into there to disconnect the hoses. Maybe there is enough slack in the lines that you can pull the tank out before disconnecting the hoses. Regarding your home, I'm in California and bought a house in Sun City Georgetown as a second home. I plan on bringing my rig down there and do some Texas RVing. Maybe you can give me some tips on good places to visit.
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Old 02-15-2023, 07:32 AM   #16
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Likely that panel is stapled from the back side to the frame, assembled before actually installed.

As Tom mentioned, the thermostat/hi temp cutouts have reset buttons under the rubber covers. Press to reset. Might give that a try in case that tripped.
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Old 02-15-2023, 07:41 AM   #17
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Thanks, I have ordered a new switch and I hope it fixes the problem. If not I will have to replace the relay. I have to pull the heater tank our about six inches, can I do this without having to disconnect water hoses in the back of the tank?
I would have used a meter and measured for 120 volts at that outside switch BEFORE I ordered a switch.

If you have NO power at the outside switch ( if yours has one ) then a new switch is just a waste.

I would also have verified that when you turn the INSIDE ELEC mode WH switch ON that it was actually sending 12 volts to the remote relay. You can check that at the backside of the ELEC mode switch located inside your RV
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Old 02-15-2023, 07:09 PM   #18
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They are right check the black switch on front of the water heater
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Old 02-16-2023, 06:07 PM   #19
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If you're not getting AC to that black switch, chances are that the relax mounted on the outside of the Water Heater is the problem, most likely melted wires inside.
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Old 02-19-2023, 01:56 PM   #20
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Several years ago in my unit I was smelling burnt electrical stuff. Then I noticed I had no hot water. Upon investigating where the smell was coming from I found the junction box on the water heater with the relay in it completely burnt up.
It's a really bad idea and Design. I eliminated the relay and wired it 120 volts direct to a switch in the bathroom on the wall. I had to cut a few access holes in the coroplast covering underneath so I could run the wire.
I used one of those switches with the red light that illuminates when it's turned on
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