Montana 3230/3231

[rames14]

We are currently in our 2015 Montana 3160 Legacy Montana with IS and disc brakes. It has been a great unit and we still love it. With all of the new RVers out there, we see even more of our trips being boondocking. We have thought about adding solar, and that is still an option. However, the new 3230 floor plan is intriguing to us, especially with the new super solar package. Our limiting factor in the past was that Montana had either a 35’ or 40+’ units. With a 22 percent grade driveway, it was hard enough getting a 35’ unit up the mountain. We finally got that fixed (now it’s 8%j and started looking and hoping that Montana would come out with a mid length unit. It looks like at 37’ 6”, the 3230 finally fits that niche. Curious if anyone has one and their experiences. Also, based on the fact that we do so much boondocking, if there is any change to the power draw of the residential refrigerator in newer units.

[Daryles]

On a solar power group, there was a post with this link. Really great explanation of residential fridge power requirements.

Residential fridge power calculation
(

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bPy9bPLa9x0

. )

[makeithappen]

I do not have one, but local dealer where I ordered my 3120 from does. we actually went to see it last weekend. it is a good floor plan, worth checking out in my opinion .

Paul

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by Daryles

On a solar power group, there was a post with this link. Really great explanation of residential fridge power requirements.

Residential fridge power calculation
(

. )

Daryles, I'm slightly skeptical of this guys calculations. Granted, residential refrigerators are NOT suitable for boondocking. One would need a very good solar system along with a fairly large battery bank (preferably lithium batteries).

However, what I do know is this ... we have a 2020 295RL with 2 group 24 lead acid batteries (75ah each). It has a 18 cu. ft. residential refer. I have traveled 10 hours without dropping the batteries below 12.5vdc. Yes, the truck is providing "some" charge to the batteries while in transit but, keep in mind it is a very small trickle charge.

BTW, I'm not disputing tour thoughts on residential RV refers, just not certain of this Youtubers accuracy.

[rames14]

I agree that the calculations are not exact, but it shows me that we still need to boondock with RV refrigerator. Our 3160 came with the big double door RV fridge, keeps temps in the low teens in the freezer and doesn't kill our batteries, even boondocking. We did have the fridge defender system installewd when we bought it, and I believe it has helped a lot. Thanks for the tutorial.

[Daryles]

Originally Posted by triplebvalp

Daryles, I'm slightly skeptical of this guys calculations. Granted, residential refrigerators are NOT suitable for boondocking. One would need a very good solar system along with a fairly large battery bank (preferably lithium batteries).

However, what I do know is this ... we have a 2020 295RL with 2 group 24 lead acid batteries (75ah each). It has a 18 cu. ft. residential refer. I have traveled 10 hours without dropping the batteries below 12.5vdc. Yes, the truck is providing "some" charge to the batteries while in transit but, keep in mind it is a very small trickle charge.

BTW, I'm not disputing tour thoughts on residential RV refers, just not certain of this Youtubers accuracy.

Understood. Also it can be said residential fridges have MUCH better insulation than RV fridge and stay cooler longer between duty cycles.
There was another post regarding residential fridges by a particular dealership where they said they will not deal with ANY RV that has one.
He has some very valid points in his argument

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by Daryles

Understood. Also it can be said residential fridges have MUCH better insulation than RV fridge and stay cooler longer between duty cycles.
There was another post regarding residential fridges by a particular dealership where they said they will not deal with ANY RV that has one.
He has some very valid points in his argument

Yep, I watch his videos also and he makes a good point. However, my "take" on their decision is simply this ... They don't have "qualified" technicians capable of repairing a residential refer so, they have to call in a tech. Also, his point of having to remove the slide probably does apply to some RV's, my 2020 295RL has enough room to remove the 18 cu. ft. Samsung through the door. One would have to remove the refer's doors, but I think it would be doable ( in theory anyway :-) )

Residential RV fridges are not like a "normal" residential fridge. They are counter depth rather than past the depth of the counter that a home fridge is.

Again Daryles, I'm not busting your chops, just pointing out my experience with our first RV fridge.

[mhs4771]

All I can add is that our Whirlpool French Door Fridge draws 11 amps from our Batteries when it cycles. I did a test of the OEM two Group 27s when were first got the unit, now granted we were not using the unit at the time so there was no other draw except the Fridge and it ran for three days and the battery voltage was still 12.6