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07-22-2007, 03:59 PM
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#21
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Spring Hill
Posts: 2,725
M.O.C. #59
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Carol,
Didn't know they shortened the length. Thanks.
tom
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07-22-2007, 04:19 PM
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#22
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: _
Posts: 5,238
M.O.C. #6337
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Tom, check out this thread
I stated pretty much the same thing there.
http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23314
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07-23-2007, 03:51 AM
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#23
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Spring Hill
Posts: 2,725
M.O.C. #59
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Thanks Carol,
I missed all of those discussions. It is good to see other people agree with me. My dealer always told me no way but I guess I have taken too many Classical Physics courses. Or too old to change.
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07-23-2007, 05:06 PM
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#24
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by lightningjack11
Thanks Orv,
Really great info. I don't use my 2000 to live in, just short vacations and weekends.
Recently I developed a small crack at the left upper side of my bedroom slide but I have not noticed any flex. I also had to make some repairs to my bedroom slide because of water entry.
I will print your post and try to do your flex check.
I removed the cover about 4 months ago and everything looked good underneath except for rust on the bedroom side so I cleaned it up and repainted with rust proofing.
I have always thought the prime culprit causing flex originated with the extended hitch pin. I feel this way because not only dos the pin force up and down motion it also causes a torque on the frame at the connection points. My dealer shoots me down but I stick to guns on this.
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Lightningjack11,
If you have cracks in the corners, you have frame flex. It is not something you can see by removing the cover. Keep a check on the moldings running from the front back and down toward the landing gear. When the rig is connected to your truck, if you have much frame flex you will see where the molding is pulled down away from the caulk. When the rig is off the truck, the molding is back up flush with the caulk. If you're not aware of how to stop the crack from spreading, you can drill a small hole at the furthest end of the crack. This will stop the crack from going any further. Then you can use some white caulk and rub it in with a wet finger to press it in the crack. If you're handy with repairing fiberglass you can always get a kit and make the repair yourself. It's not really that hard. "A caveman could almost do it."
Orv
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07-25-2007, 05:18 AM
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#25
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Spring Hill
Posts: 2,725
M.O.C. #59
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Thanks Orv,
I have been watching but no other signs of frame flex.
I had to repair my bedroom slide for water intrusion but that had nothing to do with frame flex, but I will test it IAW this thread.
I have already filled the crack to keep water out but I will be trying some fiberglass repair soon and or cover it with a strip. The front portion of the frame is in excellent condition but I noticed only three spot welds on one side and four on the other. Does not seem like that is enough. But my rig is light. About 8500 dry and 10500 loaded for a long trip.
When my slide mechanism broke down I feel that the slide was putting too much weight on the foward part of the frame. The crack and breakdown occured at the same relative time. My slide on this older Dewald system lets the steel rails that are bolted down in the center of the bedroom absorb most of the weight of the slide. In other words the slide appears to almost float above the frame. When the water intrusion destroyed the connection to the Dewald assembly the slide dropped so it rested completely on the framing. The connection was good enough to extend and retract the slide. So I think that with the slide resting on frame with full weight caused the crack. Time will tell. Posted all my Pixs on the forum.
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