Disc brakes

[Ozz]

Has anyone done theirs their selves?
I am thinking about it, can't be brain surgery..
What do the parts cost, if anyone knows?
Ozz

[WeBeFulltime]

Ozz, I have not done mine but recently did a little research on the parts. Looks to be in the neighborhood of $1500 for parts. I was on etrailer,com looking at Kodiak brand rotors/calipers. Can't remember brand of controller.

[dieselguy]

I almost did this conversion a few months back, but as I previously posted ... went with the 7000# drum brake assys as they are noticeably better than my old 6000# brakes and satisfied my needs on my 3150RL. $1500 - $1800 seems to be the ball park price for a do it your selfer. Here's a pretty good video of one guys swap on a trailer similar in size to ours.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADzms2F5cfk

ETrailer and Eastern Marine have good prices on most of the parts. EM has a better price on the controller if you go with the Titan BrakeRite brand. I think running the brake lines is the hardest part, but not impossible. I like the idea of running the width wise brake line run once across the frame instead of on the back of the axles like some videos suggest. The swapping of backing plates for caliper mounts is a straight forward and rather simple task ... as in the video, you may need longer bolts however. If you do have to double flair a line ... it's no harder than a single flair, just one more step with the right tool.

[Ozz]

Thanks guys, how much were the 7000# drum ass'ys?
I think I will pass on doing the disc, too much money with so may other needs.
Appreciate it.
OzzOzz

[8.1al]

Braking can be greatly enhanced by making sure you have the proper sized wiring. Dexter recommends #12 AWG up to 30' from connector to brakes, #10 for 30' to 50'. I had a car hauler that had pitiful braking, after upgrading the wiring I couldn't believe the difference.

[Ozz]

What is on there, 14 ga?

[oldelmer1]

quote:Originally posted by dieselguy

went with the 7000# drum brake assys as they are noticeably better than my old 6000# brakes and satisfied my needs on my 3150RL.

dieselguy,

Please share more info on the parts you used to upgrade to the 7000# brakes.

Did you have to replace the drums also?

Where did you get them from?

Part numbers???

THANKS.

[8.1al]

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

What is on there, 14 ga?

I'm not sure Ozz. 14 would be close to adequate. Heavier wire would improve the braking but discs would be better

[dieselguy]

If you already have 7000# axles, this swap won't do you nay good as you already have what I changed to. If you have 6000# axles ... read on. I ordered (2) Nev-R-Adjust K23-464-00 LH assys and (2)Nev-R-Adjust K23 465-00 RH assys from Trailer Parts Superstore online. They had a special a few months back, so 4 brake assys and shipping was $259.17 Each brake assy was $53.99. You use your original bearings and drum ... 5 bolts and two wires on each brake ... it's a breeze swapping them out. They come pre-assembled with no messing around with brake shoes, springs, and linkage. I recommend soldering the wires and insulating them with shrink tube and or liquid tape. The 7000# assys have a bit stronger magnet and abit more aggressive brake shoe compound. After about 50 miles of break-in, the stopping power was noticeable as compared to my stock 6000# brake assys. Remember ... disc brakes will always be a step above ... unfortunately about $1200 - $1500 more.

[Ozz]

Thanks, appreciate it. Printed it out in case I get froggy and want to do the job... I want to.
I replaced the springs with heavier springs when I did the wet bolts, but brakes are still 6,000 class.

[oldelmer1]

THANKS dieselguy, made a copy too.

[Chip]

Ozz

If you do the job at some point, consider going to 8K disk brakes.
That's what Mor/ryde puts on our units. They are awesome.

[Ozz]

Thanks Drew.

[sreigle]

Jim, make sure your builtin controller in the truck can handle electric over hydraulic. I think that's a feature in the Ford controller but I'm not sure. I know my aftermarket Tekonsha P3 can handle it so I'd bet the builtins can, too.

[Ozz]

Thanks Steve, I am going to wait on anything pricey for a bit, still fixing the things that broke last winter.
Seems like a one step foreword, two back deal.

[Leaseit]

I just put Kodiak Disk brakes on and wish I had done that years ago.
Complete difference I braking with 100+ percent improvement along with no more fade and crawling under the unit to adjust the brake shoes.
I went with Kodiak because Dexter was over priced and replacement brake pads for Dexter are $190.00 a axle set. Are they out of there minds.
I used a Titan Hydraulic brake pump and a GM/FORD Integrated Brake Adapter unit(IBC). If you have a truck with an IBC, Dexter says there pump will not work and Carlisle Brake and Titan both say you need the adapter. The adapter is nothing more than a coil, Just like a brake magnet, to provide enough resistive load so the truck IBC sees a trailer connected. A normal brake magnet coil had about 4-7 Ohms across it and the adapter had a passive 14-16 ohms. I should have done like I was told and put a brake magnet in series on the brake line wire between the truck and the pump. I have been told that the Dexter Pump will work with the coil also. The problem is the truck does not see the trailer so it will not put out any voltage on the brake line. Most of the pumps trigger to run at about 3.5 volts, so the IBC units in the trucks put out about 1.5 volts with a small current draw to know if there is a trailer connected.
Installing the caliper back plate was a simple 4 bolt swap out. Take the old backer plate off and bolt on the new bracket. Since the new rotors had the race already installed I put in new bearings and seals.
Running the brake line was simple since there was a small gap in the sheet metal in the front left basement corner to run the brake line in the belly back and exit out to the axles.
I used to run the brake controller at about 9 and now I run it at 6 and can tell the trailer is stopping by it self and not "pushing" the truck or depending on the truck brakes. The test was coming home down Eagle Mountain in Chattanooga. No problem. More than enough braking power and at one point I tried using just the trailer brakes by manual activation of the Truck Brake controller. It slowed the trailer and truck with only about 1/2 activation of the Truck Brake Controller. I also find I don't have to sneak up the stop lights and signs.
I would recommend Disk Brakes over mag brakes any day now that I have experience the difference.

Randy

[mail2us]

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Jim, make sure your builtin controller in the truck can handle electric over hydraulic. I think that's a feature in the Ford controller but I'm not sure. I know my aftermarket Tekonsha P3 can handle it so I'd bet the builtins can, too.

Having Mor/Ryde install the Kodiak disc brakes has educated me that certain trucks require more mod. In my case with a 900m 3007 Chevy diesel the brake controller required a 2 cam install vs 1 cam install that most Ford and Dodge may require. I am very satisfied with the braking strength or power with no creep or drag and no noticeable drag from the truck braking. Mor/Ryde gives you what it's worth and very pro....fissional.

[Tom S.]

Another plus for the Kodiak system is they use easy to find Buick disc pads instead of proprietary (read expensive) ones.