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Old 02-09-2024, 06:07 PM   #1
Lhinkle114
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Leak in Coroplast Near Pull Handle

I need the advise of all the intelligent Montana owners. I have a 2019 3791RD that has a minor leak coming from the hole in the Coroplast where the kitchen grey what pull handle comes out. Funny thing the leak stops when I close the grey tank. It could be grey but does not have any smell in the very small pool on the concrete. Before I drop the bottom any idea what I might need to get to fix before I start.

Thanks for all the help

Larry
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Old 02-09-2024, 06:13 PM   #2
rohrmann
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If water only leaks when the drain valve is open, then you have a leak after the valve, and the only way to determine where and what is leaking is to drop the coroplast. It's likely just the 1 1/2" drain pipe or one of the fittings that is leaking, so should be a simple fix.
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Old 02-10-2024, 09:55 AM   #3
GregN
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I had the same problem. Pulled some of the Coroplast away and found out the valve was leaking from where the pull rod connected to the valve. I had to replace the valve.
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Old 02-10-2024, 04:01 PM   #4
Daryles
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Coroplast Removal
Use 1/4" socket on a drill in reverse. Pry down under the fender washer. It will com right out.
To put coroplast back up, use 1" #12 self drilling bolts and a drop of blue Locktite. You can reuse the fender washers and go through the nail hole OR just press HARD and it will drill its own hole through the frame.
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Old 02-12-2024, 08:18 AM   #5
Lhinkle114
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Thanks for the help
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Old 02-12-2024, 02:16 PM   #6
Daryles
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The factory valves are Bristol. I just changed the black tank valve seals (3"). The kitchen (galley) tank valve is 1.5".

Lasalle Bristol 39227 Seal Kit for Waste Valve - 3" https://a.co/d/6OuxnAJ

Lasalle Bristol 39225 Seal Kit 1-1/2" F/Waste Valve https://a.co/d/7CH2cLz

On the front drop down its a Fairly easy job. Hardest part is putting the coroplast back up.
Fasten one side then use two 8' 2x4 on leveling blocks to hold up the boards to hold up the coroplast until you get it fastened back up. Awkward.
While I had it open I added lubrication ports to the valves. They slide VERY smoothly now. And I added insulation around the frame perimeter and bottom.

SmartSHIELD -20mm 48"X25ft Reflective Insulation Roll, Foam Core Radiant Barrier, Thermal Foil Insulation Panel - 0.8 Inch Thickness, R-23 https://a.co/d/dSL37BE


Valve lubrication making lube holes for silicon grease
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Old 02-12-2024, 06:56 PM   #7
Lhinkle114
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Great ideas, it it much more work to change out the Bristol to a Valletta value? I know I woul have to change the flange but Iím in in unknown territory
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Old 02-12-2024, 10:20 PM   #8
Carl n Susan
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The Valtera and Bristol valves are interchangeable. No need to futz with the flanges.
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Old 02-13-2024, 07:42 AM   #9
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Thanks Carl. Good to know.
The valves are easy to remove. Just remove the 4 bolts and it slides away from the pipe. I have read routing the cable is a pain. You need to order the correct lenght of cable for the black and forward (Bathroom) tank valves. For the galley 1.5" Valve you have a push rod. I'm guessing the valve is different from the others regarding how that rod attaches versus how the cables are attached.
There will be a mess of wiring. I used Velcro straps to tie it up out of the way.
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