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Old 01-10-2008, 08:48 AM   #1
jjackflash
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Lubricating Slides

I've search for this but couldn't find the answer.
What do I actually lub on the slides.
We have a 2008 and I can't see any lubrication on the slides.
I would think you would lub the teeth and ratch gear but mine is dry as a bone,is this normal?
Jack
 
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Old 01-10-2008, 09:20 AM   #2
racerjoe
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I believe that is about it. I take a spray can of slide gear lube and do the rack gear and any shafts that move. thats all that is exposed and the bedroom slide is all enclosed so not much you can do there.
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Old 01-10-2008, 01:54 PM   #3
ols1932
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I believe that as long as you are moving the slides periodically (I don't know how often) you don't need to lubricate. As a matter of fact, I once lubed the tubes that the slides go in and out on and Keystone techs removed the grease. Say that it just collects dirt. It's just like the front landing legs; I used to lube them and they got so they wouldn't go up and down freely because they collected dirt. As for the slides, we've never lubed ours and we've been full time ever since 2000 when our unit was new. No problems attributed to lack of lubrication.

Orv
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:18 PM   #4
Waynem
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I've lubed my slides twice. Last time out they squeaked going out and coming in. I lubed them just before I left. Go figure!!!
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:25 PM   #5
bjlks
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I use a silicon spray on slides and teeth,does not collect dirt and grease.I spay mine about twice a year,seems to help make things work better.
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:36 PM   #6
exav8tr
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I use a dry slide gear lube on the roller portion nearest the frame. Wet lube on the long arms collects dirt and grime. A wet lube on arms will eventually show through on the carpets. I have owned my Montana for six months and sprayed them once in that time. I was told twice a year was sufficient.
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Old 01-11-2008, 03:56 AM   #7
JimF
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I discovered that the ram on ours had rusted due to lack of lube, I contacted Lippert and they said my warrenty was void due to the rust, however they would NOT recommend a lubricant or anti-rust agent. So what the sam H--- are you supposed to do. I cleaned them up and now put a heavy duty silicone lube on them and wipe them off before retracting the slides. It does attract quite a bit of dust and grit. When we pull in for over a day or so I spray them down. Just something else to do on setup.
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Old 01-11-2008, 04:18 AM   #8
jjackflash
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Thanks for the replies everyone,it looks like an eeny-meeny-miney-mo
situation.
Jack
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Old 01-12-2008, 07:55 AM   #9
TLightning
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I use a silicone spray...WD 40 is a penetrate and will collect crude, the silicone is dry and won't.
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Old 01-12-2008, 08:18 AM   #10
MIMF
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TLightning,

I have to disagree with you about the WD-40.

Years ago in another life, as a plastics injection molding technician in several molding shops around the area, we used WD-40 to protect and clean molds while they were in storeage between production runs to protect the finish in the cavities. It also cleaned gas build-up from the cavity vents.

You need to understand that almost all plastics compounds, when heated into a molten state so they can be injected into the cavites, give off all kinds of corrosive gases that attack the finish if the cavities. In order to protect the finish to maintain a quality finish on the molded part when ejected from the mold cavities, we used WD-40.

I use WD-40 on my slide mechanisms one or two times every year. I do it because, WD-40 lubricates, protects against corrosion, and displaces moisture.

Ain't ever had a problem yet and in most cases, is cheaper than some dry lubes and silicones and is readily available about anywhere you shop.

Also, you folks want to clean and shine your shower surrounds? With the inside of the shower and glass door dry, moisten a terry cloth rag and wipe it down to remove water spots and streaks. It is a lot less work than Soft Scrub and other houshold cleaners.
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Old 01-12-2008, 08:59 AM   #11
Dustytuu
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A tiny bit of baby oil will do this on the shower walls too.
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Old 01-12-2008, 12:11 PM   #12
sreigle
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Orv, what Keystone techs told me is to use a dry spray that does not collect dirt. They took the slide lube I bought at camping world, sprayed it on cardboard, threw dirt on the cardboard. It stuck to where they sprayed. They sprayed the other side with a TFE 101 dry lube and the dirt did not stick.

MIMF, who used to work at Lippert, says silicone spray is good enough. And now I see he's using WD-40. So that's good enough for me. But I will not use that spray from camping world after seeing how dirt sticks to it.
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Old 01-12-2008, 12:53 PM   #13
billhoover
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Orv, what Keystone techs told me is to use a dry spray that does not collect dirt. They took the slide lube I bought at camping world, sprayed it on cardboard, threw dirt on the cardboard. It stuck to where they sprayed. They sprayed the other side with a TFE 101 dry lube and the dirt did not stick.

MIMF, who used to work at Lippert, says silicone spray is good enough. And now I see he's using WD-40. So that's good enough for me. But I will not use that spray from camping world after seeing how dirt sticks to it.
As a sailboater, I used WD 40 for years on the sail track, what the sails slide on to go up and down. Shortly afterward, there seemed to be a problem with binding and misc particles in the track. An old sailor suggested silicone spray, it's dry, does not collect particles and lasts a long time. To each his own, but no more WD 40 for me, unless I have a rusted bolt I need to get loose.
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Old 01-13-2008, 05:50 AM   #14
MacDR50
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WD-40 is a great product. Here are two other possibilities. We use both in our shop for a wide range of equipment. We also use a Teflon based dry lubricant but it isn't for heavy loads. It sure makes a snowblower work better when it is sprayed on the inside surfaces of the auger bin and snow chute.

http://www.kpg-industrial.com/products/dry_moly_lube/
Takes longer to dry but is clean and not noticeable. It makes locks and other mechanisms work even in cold weather when other lubricants would start gumming up.

http://www.kpg-industrial.com/produc...fied_dry_lube/
This one is used for rails and gears, and any other application where the film won't be scrapped off. It sheds water and we haven't had any problems with dust and such sticking to it. If sand or grit gets on it under pressure or with velocity it will stick.
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Old 01-14-2008, 03:41 AM   #15
8.1al
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I have seen the teflon based(pfte) dry lube spray in the automotive section at Walmart. It is truly dry and won't attract dirt. It works great, spray it on the tubes and gear rack. While you're down there spray a little silicone on those plastic rollers near the frame.
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Old 01-14-2008, 04:53 AM   #16
gpats
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While I am down there with my silicon spray lubing my slides I also spray the leaves on my springs and it seems to help with the squeeking--
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Old 01-14-2008, 05:05 AM   #17
jjackflash
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Thanks for all of the great suggestions,I think I'll go with a good silicon spray.
Jack
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Old 01-14-2008, 08:24 AM   #18
Snownyet
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Off topic some but slightly interesting trivia I got from an Navy retiree. Years ago WD40 was delveloped by the US Navy, its full name was Water Displacement formula 40. Its nothing more than a blend of clear kerosene and light oil. I use a dry fily moly lube called slip plate on the gears, it goes on like grapihite paint and dries. Regarding the post about the Rams rusting, do you leave the slides out for long periods? Since its a hydraulic ram if used regularly it wont rust, it operates in an oil filled environment.
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