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Old 10-25-2020, 06:58 PM   #1
Mlenest
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Battery life

I have 2 interstate hd24 that seem not to hold a charge last Sunday they were 12.4 when I pick ip a week later they were at 12 volt I also used the RV battery disconnect when it not been used. Is this normal?

I am thinking go to AGM battery is it worth it

How do I battery charge during storage my storage does not have any power hookups
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Old 10-25-2020, 07:10 PM   #2
triplebvalp
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Mlenest, the battery disconnect does NOT shut battery power completely off. The only way to kill battery power is to disconnect the battery or install a battery disconnect switch at the battery.

If you are storing your FW outside, a portable solar power system will keep your battery charged.
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Old 10-25-2020, 07:27 PM   #3
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So do disconnect both red and black or can just do one of them?
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Old 10-25-2020, 07:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mlenest View Post
I have 2 interstate hd24 that seem not to hold a charge last Sunday they were 12.4 when I pick ip a week later they were at 12 volt I also used the RV battery disconnect when it not been used. Is this normal?

I am thinking go to AGM battery is it worth it

How do I battery charge during storage my storage does not have any power hookups


How old are the batteries? How often do you add water to them? How do you charge them if there is no power at the storage facility? If you haven't been doing that the batteries are probably shot. Have you ever let them "go dead"? Here is a chart that might be enlightening showing how discharging a battery kills it - page 4 lower left;

https://www.intechtrailers.com/image...nce-Manual.pdf

As far as to keep them charged when the storage facility doesn't have power, disconnect them and put them on a battery tender.
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Old 10-25-2020, 08:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mlenest View Post
So do disconnect both red and black or can just do one of them?
I just disconnect the negative.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:20 AM   #6
triplebvalp
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Originally Posted by Mlenest View Post
So do disconnect both red and black or can just do one of them?
Either one will work. If you disconnect the + only, make sure it cannot touch anything metal in the battery compartment. Better yet, install a battery disconnect switch such as:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Marine-Ba...1250/990287568
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:25 AM   #7
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I agree with Jim and only disconnect the lead going to the ground.
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Old 10-26-2020, 03:00 PM   #8
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My batteries are always fully charged before storing. I used to disconnect the negative terminal but that got old. I bought a cutoff switch like post #6 suggested. As previously stated the cutoff switch that comes with your trailer does not shut off ALL power.
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Old 10-26-2020, 07:08 PM   #9
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Here's another option on disconnecting the cable off the negative battery terminal. It won't "get old" as it takes all of 5 seconds to remove the cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-.../dp/B001N729FS
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Old 10-26-2020, 09:29 PM   #10
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Thank you for the link I just order it
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Old 10-29-2020, 07:54 PM   #11
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Do yourself a favor and don't use one of those mickey mouse switches. You want a real switch. Google Blue sea disconnect switches. They are true Marine HD switches.
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:15 PM   #12
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I beg to differ as to the adjectives "Mickey Mouse". Several in my circle of RVer's use this type of disconnect with complete success for the long term. They are handy, work well, and provide a good solid area of contact between the fork and blade of each half. Loosen the grip bolt and slide it apart ... slide it back and tighten the grip bolt ... easy peasy. The marine switches look really neat and work well too, but these work equally as well and cost way less. You're just working with the negative ground of any battery here.

Perhaps my link isn't exactly the brand we use, but it works the same if you completely separate the two halfs. Ours has a fork that slides out from under the tightening bolt. This one you should remove the knob bolt and drop the halfs apart.
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Old 10-30-2020, 05:25 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy View Post
I beg to differ as to the adjectives "Mickey Mouse". Several in my circle of RVer's use this type of disconnect with complete success for the long term. They are handy, work well, and provide a good solid area of contact between the fork and blade of each half. Loosen the grip bolt and slide it apart ... slide it back and tighten the grip bolt ... easy peasy. The marine switches look really neat and work well too, but these work equally as well and cost way less. You're just working with the negative ground of any battery here.

Perhaps my link isn't exactly the brand we use, but it works the same if you completely separate the two halfs. Ours has a fork that slides out from under the tightening bolt. This one you should remove the knob bolt and drop the halfs apart.
I may have said it harshly but all I'm saying is there are better switches out there at a reasonable cost.
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Old 11-01-2020, 02:35 PM   #14
Clyde n Deb
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Don't know how he'll run a battery tender if he doesn't have power? (refer to original post.) The simple "knife" switches have worked well for me for 25 years on our motorhome first and now the Monty. What still hasn't been revealed is the age of the OP's batteries. Often, anything beyond 5 years is plus time. I have made it 8 on this set, but they are needing replacing now.
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Old 11-01-2020, 02:58 PM   #15
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I got an inexpensive knife switch for the battery negative terminal to cable. Also got an inexpensive solar panel and controller ($60) and its maintaining two batteries. I mounted the panel on the kingpin (as that's where I get the most sun in my storage lot).
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