No Protection on Rear of body

[MyFirstFiver]

I have a new 3791RD 5Th wheel and there is no rear bumper. I almost drag turning up my street which I have only done once so far. Does anyone know if there are wheels or some type of skid plate that I can install to protect the rear body? I do have an accessory hitch, that's it.

[rohrmann]

On ours, where the bicycle hitch is mounted, there was just a bit of the thin metal that acted like a skid, which eventually wore down. I had a welding shop make me a couple of skids out of 3/8" steel that I drilled to match the bolt holes in the frame and hitch and bolted up on each side, and occasionally these will drag a bit and keeps the fiberglass from contacting the pavement. I felt wheels would just hang down too far and would make contact with pavement much more than the skids.

[Flying Dutchman]

I have a 3582RL with the same issue and we damaged the ladder and the fiberglass back end because it is completely unprotected. I had the fiberglass repaired professionally to good as new. However, I am building a new much stronger ladder plus I am building a bumper with a skid plate and a 2” receiver that I will bolt onto the 12” I-beams in the rear. That should eliminate the problem.
(I wanted to attach a picture but have not figured out how to do that within this MOC site. Copy and paste doesn’t work for some reason).

[Desert Rat]

We are looking forward to your picture.

[Nard Dog]

My brand new HC came with two little angled hangers. Those won’t last long. I had my first drag yesterday. I knew it was coming. I plan to install the same little roller wheels demonstrated at 2:00 of this video: https://youtu.be/ikej-17iMKE

[432bartman]

Another reason to raise these rigs up. They just come to low from the factory. The 2" blocks I put on the axles did wonders for those steep driveway approaches and uneven terrain, not to mention it leveled the rig out.

[kowbra]

Originally Posted by 432bartman

Another reason to raise these rigs up. They just come to low from the factory. The 2" blocks I put on the axles did wonders for those steep driveway approaches and uneven terrain, not to mention it leveled the rig out.

Interesting, can you share more? Pictures?
Is this just a block on top of the axle, then using longer U bolts, leaving the rest of suspension as is?
Any worries about increasing the overall height?

New trucks are so high, and bed rail clearance could be another reason to raise the 5th. Has this helped with the clearance here also?

Thanks again,
Brad

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by Flying Dutchman

...... .......
(I wanted to attach a picture but have not figured out how to do that within this MOC site. Copy and paste doesn’t work for some reason).

Below the message reply box, click on Go Advanced. Then scroll down to Manage Attachments and click. Then you can upload pic files to include with your post.

[432bartman]

[QUOTE=kowbra;1207142]Interesting, can you share more? Pictures?
Is this just a block on top of the axle, then using longer U bolts, leaving the rest of suspension as is?
Any worries about increasing the overall height?

New trucks are so high, and bed rail clearance could be another reason to raise the 5th. Has this helped with the clearance here also?

Thanks again,
Brad[/QUO

I got the idea from several other members. Just aluminum blocks, and new u-bolts. I got everything from Summit Racing. Tows great. The last photo is the end result. 2" made a world of difference. I was at my limit with adjusting my Anderson hitch height and my pin pox for a level ride.

[dieselguy]

I'm not a real fan of increasing the ride height of our fivers unless it's just a last ditch remedy. They are already 13' 2" to 13' 8" in some cases and sit top heavy as is. But ... I guess it also depends on what roads with what bridges you travel. We run the roads less traveled sometimes just for different scenery ... In a few cases, clearance is pretty darned close.

[432bartman]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

I'm not a real fan of increasing the ride height of our fivers unless it's just a last ditch remedy. They are already 13' 2" to 13' 8" in some cases and sit top heavy as is. But ... I guess it also depends on what roads with what bridges you travel. We run the roads less traveled sometimes just for different scenery ... In a few cases, clearance is pretty darned close.

Yeah, it's a toss-up, but I tend to run into steep driveway approaches other than low bridges out my way. I just like the fact the weight of the trailer is now more balanced out over the 4 tires and not more on the back two like it was.

[mlh]

Raising the rear does little at the hitch which is the highest place on the camper. I would think less than a quarter inch.
Lynwood

[dieselguy]

I understand which brings up my never answered question ... "why do the big 3 make their late model pickups so damned high off the ground?" ... " Why have almost 2' of clearance between rear tire and inner fender?"


MLH ... my highest point is the rear A/C as I have a low profile front A/C. My truck is way older than most of you posting here. It probably sits 4" - 6" lower thus my fiver's front is lower.

[mlh]

I think the trucks are higher to allow for more spring travel to give us a softer ride. They can make the springs longer and softer when unloaded.
Lynwood

[kowbra]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

I understand which brings up my never answered question ... "why do the big 3 make their late model pickups so damned high off the ground?" ... " Why have almost 2' of clearance between rear tire and inner fender?"

So you can put 37" mudder tires on it of course!

Brad

[kowbra]

Originally Posted by 432bartman

I got the idea from several other members. Just aluminum blocks, and new u-bolts. I got everything from Summit Racing. Tows great. The last photo is the end result. 2" made a world of difference. I was at my limit with adjusting my Anderson hitch height and my pin pox for a level ride.

Thanks, very helpful!

Brad

[rohrmann]

Another thing they did with the newer trucks is made the sides of the beds taller which makes it impossible to lower the front of the trailers and still keep about 6 inches of clearance. I also see a lot of the newer trailers do not slope down towards the rear like the older ones do, which makes the rear AC's at about the same height as the front units, so raising the rig at the axles may require replacement of the rear AC with a low profile unit to maintain height clearance.

[Jamesb]

Don’t give them an idea to raise anything Next thing you know we will all be 13’ 6” max height, six steps to even get in the FW, and two step side steps on our trucks . I wish they would lower everything back down. And lower the ceilings inside the FW. Costs a lot of money to heat them 10 foot ceilings. And even more unsteady as they get taller. And sadly, my RV building is only 13’, with no way to raise it. I’m stuck with the High Country line. But I’m happy with it though.
Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas 🎄

[scottz]

I welded low profile skid wheels on mine. eTrailer has some bolt on units; no experience with them. One of these days, I will replace the toy hitch with a real one and the skid wheels will be put on that. To my knowledge, the skid wheels have never touched the ground.

https://www.rvpartscountry.com/Steel-Micro-Roller.html

The last photo is my old 5th wheel; it had a real hitch.

[beeje]

Having the IS installed raised our unit 5 inches. The older units are not as tall as the newer ones. I had to remove the fantastic fan cover to make it fit in the pole building which is 12 foot 10 from concrete to header.