Samsung Refrigerator Freezing Up

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by Dave W

That new clip si very esy to install. Getting to it isn't a project for many that are not good DIYers. You can buy that mod on AMAZON or a "compatible" version, identical to the OE part but about 1/2 the price on ebay. So far on the Samjunk in our S&B, that mod is working just fine

Another easy fix is take a six inch piece of #12 aluminum or copper wire. Bend it into a shepherds hook and hang loosely over the heater dropping down the drain. Will scavenge just enough heat during defrost cycle to keep drain warm. Loose is the key word. Too tight and the wire or any other fixture will migrate out of the drain sometimes.



Also flush some warm soap and Clorox water down the drain with a baster, applying enough pressure to clean out the tube near the bottom. Saves having to pull out the unit.

[Gregg]

Originally Posted by masterdrago

When you get the evaporator cleared of frost, you'll see several sensors. One is a fuse. It's either open (blown) or closed (good). The other is a white plastic temperature variable resistor (13,000 ohms @32 degrees).

Drago, in one post you mentioned 3 causes; heater coil, sensor, or the PCI mother board. but then later you said the thermal fuse if open was blown. My thermal fuse indicated open. Is that also a cause of complete evaporator freeze up? my sensor and heater coil all tested good according to you information. Thank you for your knowledge. on this topic.

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by Gregg

Drago, in one post you mentioned 3 causes; heater coil, sensor, or the PCI mother board. but then later you said the thermal fuse if open was blown. My thermal fuse indicated open. Is that also a cause of complete evaporator freeze up? my sensor and heater coil all tested good according to you information. Thank you for your knowledge. on this topic.

Yes. If the fuse is open, it got too warm. Now the heater can not be energized so defrost will not occur. The cause of that might be hard to diagnose. Could be the sensor well out of range - like telling the computer board that the evaporator is 32d (13290 ohms) when in reality, it's over 100d (3000 ohms). Again, a good way to check the sensor is in a cup of crushed ice with just enough water to make a slush. Let the sensor set in the cup a minute, then it should read near 13290 ohms. If the sensor is not in good contact with one of the evaporator tubes, that might happen because it does not know the evaporator temperature. It's usually held on with an S-shaped metal clip. The other possibility is a relay on the computer board (PCB = motherboard) not shutting off the power to the defrost heater, so not responding to the sensor ohm change as the evaporator gets defrosted. In the old days, and some still do, we used a fixed defrost termination thermostat. Now days, the geniuses that design these things want to know what temperature the evaporator is. If I could find a wiring diagram, and I've looked, I could tell you how to check if the PCB is releasing the power to the defrost heater. All of these checks can be done from the PCB on back of unit if a diagram is in hand.

[Mikelff]

Wow, glad I converted my absorption fridge to a compressor cooling unit. Only major thing that can go wrong is the compressor or cooling coil fan and is easily replaced. Hope you solve your issue.

[Gregg]

Drago thanks for the additional info. I tested the sensor as you described at room temp it was about 5000ohms and in the ice water 13,200 ohms it might have gone a little higher if I had waited a little longer. One concern is where and how the sensor is attached to the evap. tube. I am attaching pics. it is attached with a plastic clip with a 1/16" of plastic between the sensor and the tube. should I modify that to get better temp transfer? thoughts? the fuse was laying right next to the heating coil when I took it apart.

[glendodom]

Originally Posted by masterdrago

Two months is about how much time would go by b4 a defrost failure caused the evaporator to frost up again IF the unit were running and left unopened - as in no door openings. Would be good to see a pix of the frosted evaporator. If it has been a couple of weeks, it might not hurt to take a look now. I know it's a PIA to remove shelving and the rear cover/fan assembly. It's tough to get to the MB since it is under the unit back corner in an enclosure - have to pull out and get on floor behind unit. Also a couple of rubber drain tubes to pull loose and make sure they are clean. See link for parts pix.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9jwf5y3wh7...agram.jpg?dl=0

Within the last 3-4 weeks my Samsung coil has frozen up twice. I have again defrosted it off, but since it happened again no doubt I have an issue. I noticed where someone advised that a tech replaced 2 items and fixed there same noted problems. Samsung DA32-00024W Temperature Sensor



Samsung DA47-00432A Thermo-Fuse Assembly



Do you think this would be the fix for my situation?

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by glendodom

Within the last 3-4 weeks my Samsung coil has frozen up twice. I have again defrosted it off, but since it happened again no doubt I have an issue. I noticed where someone advised that a tech replaced 2 items and fixed there same noted problems. Samsung DA32-00024W Temperature Sensor



Samsung DA47-00432A Thermo-Fuse Assembly



Do you think this would be the fix for my situation?

Only if it is not an open defrost heater or a faulty PCB (motherboard).