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Old 04-15-2020, 10:04 PM   #1
lightsout
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Oil Leak in Lack Re-buildable?

Sorry supposed to be leak in JACK. 4K screen with old eyes and small text... Considering the age of this crowd the Forum Owners should change the format and enlarge the page and not use a double window.

Anyway

I noticed the other day the front passenger jack had oil on the foot, it had obviously collected for a while, it was not pooling just coated with dirt, being the foot is black I had not noticed it until now. The jack had been down for about 6 days. I wiped it off ran the jacks up and down a few times and nothing clean and dry, so I figured I would watch it for a week. And today I say two drips this was after 5 days.

The drips were not coming from the shaft that seal is solid and dry, it is coming from the gasket at the top plate of the jack and running down then drip onto the foot. You can see in the picture the drips are not on the ankle of the jack it is dry, it is only on the foot.

I called Camping World (I know) they are the only Montana Dealer in the region. I asked if the jacks were rebuildable or can be regasketed they suggested that if jacks leak they need to be replaced. I call BS on that it makes no sense especially if it is not shaft seal related on only the upper plate gasket.

Any suggestions?

I was able to wrench the the top plate 3 bolts a 1/4-1/2 turn without too much force hoping i might get lucky and re seal, that is probably a long shot though, however it is a very slow leak at this point. My guess it has been this way since I purchased it.

Today after tightening thos bolts I ran the jacks up and down 10 times and was dry as a bone.

My rig is a 2019 3791RD



You can see there the oil was coming down the outside of the jack

 
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Old 04-16-2020, 06:18 PM   #2
DadsHemi
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I have had this same issue for awhile. I’m sure as the day is long it’s a seal or a crush washer at the bolts.
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Old 04-16-2020, 06:40 PM   #3
mazboy
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if it is a 2019 push warranty.
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Old 04-16-2020, 07:15 PM   #4
ChuckS
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This diagram should help you understand the top plate.. two attach bolts and one banjo fitting with oring seal as well as oring cap seal underneath. Most likely the banjo fitting..circled in Red was loose allowing fluid under pressure to seep out
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Old 04-16-2020, 07:17 PM   #5
ChuckS
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Most likely the banjo fitting was loose or the oring is damaged. The strut is under at least 2000 psi pressure at all times...
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Old 04-16-2020, 09:31 PM   #6
lightsout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckS View Post
Most likely the banjo fitting was loose or the oring is damaged. The strut is under at least 2000 psi pressure at all times...
Thanks for the diagram the leak is on the back side between the two bolts that are not recessed so it must be the main o-ring or a warped plate however since the seal is at the recessed o-ring that is likely the most logical explanation.
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Old 04-17-2020, 05:22 AM   #7
uhftx
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Almost all hydraulic cylinders are rebuildable. You have to know the Part numbers. They are generally all mechanical wiper shaft seals or O-ring seals as the exploded parts diagram shows. Some cylinders require spanner wrenches or other special tools though.

For Larger text HOLD down the CTRL Key and Press the PLUS key. CRTL Minus Key reduces the text size. (CTRL +) increase text size, (CTRL -) Decrease text size
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Old 04-22-2020, 10:10 AM   #8
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I readily agree that most cylinders are rebuild-able unless the cylinder or rod is scored, then generally not cost effective. If you ever get a hold of part numbers or a place to source them ... let us know. Most of the wrench spinners on the MOC have been looking for just that for years now. It appears it's "secret squirrel" information not easily found.
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Old 04-22-2020, 07:52 PM   #9
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After tightening all the housing bolts still leaking about one drip every 3-4 days coming from one of the lower rear housing bolts. So it is likely the lower gasket or o-ring. Debating whether to watch it for the summer, that shaft seal is not leaking. We are pulling out in in about two weeks and then try and rebuild next off season. I think the failure risk is very low and it has likely been leaking since new.
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Old 04-27-2020, 11:31 AM   #10
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Thanks for the diagram chucks. Looks like a DIY project but I'm afraid to start taking any of the stuff off the hydraulics. Even to take it to a rebuild shop. Does anyone here know the procedure? Ours has been leaking since sometime around end of first year. LCI has been helpful but I'm just full of lack of knowledge on this. I have just been topping off every now and then with ATF.
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Old 04-27-2020, 01:59 PM   #11
cgeis48
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Has anybody tried a hydraulic repair shop for truck lifts, etc. ?
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Old 04-27-2020, 02:13 PM   #12
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There have been a couple of YouTube full timers that have documented the removal and installation on their channels. “Morton’s on the Move” comes to mind. The visual may prove to be helpful.
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Old 04-28-2020, 05:08 AM   #13
uhftx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy View Post
I readily agree that most cylinders are rebuild-able unless the cylinder or rod is scored, then generally not cost effective. If you ever get a hold of part numbers or a place to source them ... let us know. Most of the wrench spinners on the MOC have been looking for just that for years now. It appears it's "secret squirrel" information not easily found.
Flush mount cylinder faces need a pin type spanner wrench.
If the end of the cylinder has external threads then you need a hook type spanner wrench.

Flush mount with various pin sets. up to 4inch capacity.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/04569992

Their product line for both types.
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...navid=12102973

Amazon also has them:
https://www.amazon.com/spanner-wrenc...spanner+wrench

And of course you can order from Grainger Supply.
https://www.grainger.com/category/to...&filters=attrs

Now the catch remains to order the correct seals for your particular cylinder.

Again Grainger supply:
https://www.grainger.com/search?sear...searchBar=true

Parker Seals are one of the most common in the industry:
https://ph.parker.com/us/en/seals-and-o-rings

The prices have increased on the cylinder seal rebuild kit (Cross cylinders). The ones for my backhoe generally are around a hundred bucks. It needs a hook type. Well with a little persuasion and a huge pipe wrench works just fine. Well it will gall up the retaining ring with teeth marks from the jaws of the wrench. But The last one needed a 4ft leverage extension on the handle. But it is old tired and rusty. Like me.
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