Brake issues help

[rickg]

Installed new dexter brakes on my 2010 montana 5th. Hooked up to road test wouldn't stop my truck at idle. Check if magnets engage,which they do. Tried again after checking the brake shoe adjustment, still no stopping the truck.
Checked tha factory Ford brake control, full voltage at the female plug. Engaged the controller @full setting(10), went under to check voltage to the brakes. Reading was @ 11.5 volts. Then I installed new cord from rv to truck,as the plug had the wonderful green color to them. After the change out, still at 11 volts, no power to stop
The truck.
I'm at a loss. Please, anyone who has ever run into this, please help.
Thank rick

[Carl n Susan]

What year Ford truck do you have? The integrated brake controller has some peculiarities in some years.

[Theunz]

I would try pulling the breakaway pin on the pin box. That should let you know if the problem is in the truck or the trailer.

[rickg]

Thanks for reply.
2014 f350 is the yr of the truck
Also I did forget to mention the break away switch did not change the out come

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by rickg

Thanks for reply.
2014 f350 is the yr of the truck
Also I did forget to mention the break away switch did not change the out come

Since that did not work and you did measure voltage to the brakes and you did check the adjustments I can only think of two things; brakes installed wrong or no ground.

[mhs4771]

You might try the compass trick, pull the break away switch and hold the compass near the wheel and see if it will pull the needle towards it.
As suggested, might have a broken ground somewhere thus no current through the magnets. That is assuming we are talking about standard electric brakes.

[MARK A]

Check your brake controller on your pickup, maybe it's set to Hydraulic brakes.


Mark

[GregN]

I had my brakes done on the Monty at a dealer. Same thing, picked it up, did the brake test with the brake controller, nothing. Back inside I go. They said just head down the road, not to fast, hit the brakes hard a few times and it will adjust the brakes. I did it and that cured the problem.

[RMcNeal]

I also have a 2014 F350 and I learned that the brake controller will not engage until you hit the brakes at least once while the trailer is hooked up and recognized by the truck. This also means the charging circuit to the trailer from the truck won't engage either. I know you said that you've hit the brakes several times and it doesn't stop the truck. I assume you mean you're engaging the IBC using the slide mechanism. Try hitting the brake pedal a few times first and make sure the truck recognizes that the trailer is hooked up. You can check by going into the menu from the steering wheel 4 way switch and looking under Truck Options (if memory serves, it's the one just below fuel economy). Once there, you'll see the pitch and roll for the truck, go right one and you'll see the towing options. The trailer, if recognized, will probably be named "Default Trailer" unless you've named it something else before. BTW, this will also keep track of the miles you've pull your trailer until you reset it. I was completely shocked that we got ours brand new last October and have over 21,000 miles already!

[Tom N OH]

Originally Posted by rickg

Installed new dexter brakes on my 2010 montana 5th. Hooked up to road test wouldn't stop my truck at idle. Check if magnets engage,which they do. Tried again after checking the brake shoe adjustment, still no stopping the truck.
Checked tha factory Ford brake control, full voltage at the female plug. Engaged the controller @full setting(10), went under to check voltage to the brakes. Reading was @ 11.5 volts. Then I installed new cord from rv to truck,as the plug had the wonderful green color to them. After the change out, still at 11 volts, no power to stop
The truck.
I'm at a loss. Please, anyone who has ever run into this, please help.
Thank rick

#1, how did you verify that the magnets “engaged”?

#2, exactly where/how did you check the voltage to the brakes?

[BobStack]

We’re the brake disks or drums cleaned with a good brake cleaner prior to testing?

[Tucker]

New drum brake shoes need to be " break-in" time to knock the rough surface off. Once they smooth down you should notice stronger stopping power.

[RichardD]

Tucker is absolutely correct. It is called "burnish". The new drums and the new shoes are not perfectly matched right out of the box. Set your trailer brake controller to 10 or max. Take the Monty for a ride and use the manual brake controller to slow down, do this at least 12 times You will feel a marked improvement after 12 but sometimes it may take a few extras to complete the burnishing. Large empty parking lot is always safer.
You don't have this problem when you pick up a new camper from the dealer because the transport people have burnished them for you.

[Golfmedik]

Hopefully it is the need for break-in and not grease on the shoes or in the hubs.

[Ram Montana High Country]

Should have put disc brakes, kidding. Good Luck. Try the compass

[JABURKHOLDER]

Like others have said, new brakes need to “seat”.
All will be good.

[RBGALL]

Is the brakes made for left and right side? Are they on the proper side?

[Theunz]

Originally Posted by RBGALL

Is the brakes made for left and right side? Are they on the proper side?

That’s a good point. They are side specific and there is also a leading and a trailing shoe. The short shoe goes toward the front.

[Bruno B]

A lot of good ideas have been stated above. A year ago I had no brakes on one axle. It turns out to be bare wire areas inside the axle that had been caused by the wiring abrading inside the axle tube. A quick test of magnets being energized was done by temporarily clamping the dash control levers together and then listening for a humming sound at each wheel. Even as a hearing challenged old guy I was able to hear the sound at the working magnets. No sound, no operating magnet, then no brakes. The bare abraded wires allowed the power to go directly to ground rather than the windings if the magnet.