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Old 11-25-2019, 07:33 PM   #21
mlh
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The auto leveling on my 07 MH work perfect after 11 years. They will pick up the wheels to get it level. You would think it could be used to change a flat tire but it can’t. The levelers swing down and if there is a flat there isn’t enough room for it to get in place and lock. So they are useless for that. My HC is a 2011 so it doesn’t have them.
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Old 11-26-2019, 05:40 AM   #22
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Lippert Electric Auto levers are more complex, than hydraulic. Troubleshooting and repair of them is beyond the ability of many techs. I could only get ours to work about 20% of the time. Even using them manually I could not always get it level with out erroring out.

I would even pre-level it with blocks to make sure it was in the sweet spot for leg travel.
Talked to service advisor and Salesperson. Service advisor told me Electric were more trouble than worth. Sales said she could sell more MHC if they had Hydraulic.

With Hydraulic. push button and set something else up.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:21 AM   #23
speedster100
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Love the hydraulic levelers, won't buy another unit without them. I use the auto feature when the ground is not to slope and basically level. When it isn't I actually flip to manual and level it that way. Hydraulic is the only way to go, I've used this feature to pick the rear of the truck up when I had a flat tire, didn't need to get a jack out. I've used them to lift the trailer and replace all 4 tires... I will Never go back to any kind of electric jacks...
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Old 11-26-2019, 10:18 AM   #24
Carl n Susan
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Do they work? I have the hydraulics and the answer is you betcha!! No more asking "do I need one or two boards under the wheels?', backing onto blocks, getting down on your knees to pull the pin on the inner leg before unhooking, and the pain and agony of hassling with setup.

With the hydraulics, lift the pin to unhitch and then press the "Autolevel" button. That is it. Walk away and start connecting the electric, water and sewer. I do carry some wood blocks in case the site is way off level. I stuff them under the low side jacks before I begin.

I have had the hydraulics since 2011. I have *NEVER* had to manually level. I also level before hooking up to shore power (we dry camp a lot). The batteries, four 6Vs, are more than enough to power the whole process.

Some of our camping friends have the electric levelers. No thanks! They are finicky, don't have the same range of motion, and still require kneeling (hard to do when old like me) to pull pins on the legs.

As for weight, I don't know the exact figure. But I estimate it is probably around 400 lbs for the whole system. It could be twice that and I would still go for it.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:36 PM   #25
CADman_KS
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We are really on an unlevel spot today. Didn't look all that bad until the whole process was done, and the jacks on one side were really extended.

Hit the autolevel button and walked away. Less than 30 seconds later the whole thing was done.

Another thing that I didn't see mentioned is that you can use them to raise one side in case you need to change a tire. No more external jacks or boards to drive up on.

This is our first rig with them, and I couldn't see being without them ever again...
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Old 11-27-2019, 06:03 AM   #26
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I have the 4 point electric and love it. Also have the second air. Sure I’ve had a couple of errors with the auto level but, so have the hydraulic systems. If you are worried about weight get the electric. There won’t be a lot of difference but, every pound helps. They will both have their pros and cons. I prefer not having to worry about my jacks bleeding off while going down the road and, also not having a leak somewhere creating a mess on or in my camper.
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Old 11-27-2019, 06:53 AM   #27
mazboy
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love my 6 point leveling system....would never go back.



and lots of F250s are out there pulling similar trailers.
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Old 11-27-2019, 09:31 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by mazboy View Post
and lots of F250s are out there pulling similar trailers.
That doesn't mean that they should be. Matching truck and trailer is always about the numbers. Look at the sticker inside the door of the truck to see what it's payload capacity is. Figure 20-25% of the GVWR for the trailer as pin weight (do not use the published pin weight for calcs since that number is for an empty trailer without accessories such as AC, batteries, etc). Then figure what else you will load into the truck including people. Add it all up and see how it compares to the truck's payload.

No doubt the truck will pull the trailer but is properly rated for the weight...especially in handling an emergency situation. Make a wise choice and enjoy the trip.
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Old 11-27-2019, 07:41 PM   #29
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I’ve had 2 with electric and now 2nd with hydraulic. The latter is faster. Never had a problem with either systems. I hang up the keys if I couldn’t get auto level now.
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Old 11-29-2019, 12:38 PM   #30
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i am looking at a 331 rl, but it comes with only a 4 point auto leveling system, (front legs are "standard" jack legs). any good or bad on a 4 point ver a 6 point. or mostly just a length/weight thing?
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Old 11-29-2019, 08:27 PM   #31
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i am looking at a 331 rl, but it comes with only a 4 point auto leveling system, (front legs are "standard" jack legs). any good or bad on a 4 point ver a 6 point. or mostly just a length/weight thing?
I think based more on length than anything. I had 4 point electric on a 34' Cougar with no problems. Also 6 point electric on a 43' HC without problems. I do like the current 6 point hydraulic best on a 41' Montana. I'd not be concerned about the 4 point electric system. Ground Control 3.0 is proven and LCI tech support is fantastic.
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Old 11-30-2019, 04:43 AM   #32
Mtncrash1
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I have the 4 point on my 345rl and like it. Make sure I’m level side to side unhook, push the auto level and get everything else hooked up.
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Old 11-30-2019, 06:13 AM   #33
CaptnJohn
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I have the 4 point on my 345rl and like it. Make sure I’m level side to side unhook, push the auto level and get everything else hooked up.
Why do you level side to side? I never did/do. The system takes care of side to side and front to rear.
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Old 11-30-2019, 06:24 AM   #34
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Why do you level side to side? I never did/do. The system takes care of side to side and front to rear.
I wondered the same thing. If I had to level side to side, I would be disappointed in the performance of the system.

We are sitting on a pad right now that is probably 4" off side-to-side, and autolevel handled it flawlessly, that was, until we ran out of hydro fluid, but that's another matter, and not the auto level system's problem...
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Old 11-30-2019, 06:46 AM   #35
Mtncrash1
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Why do you level side to side? I never did/do. The system takes care of side to side and front to rear.
I found that the system will not auto level if it is too far out side to side. Plus if I can get the low side up on something it keeps all wheels on a hard surface and, makes it more stable.
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Old 11-30-2019, 06:55 AM   #36
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Six point hydraulic system is great, and will be a must have on any future RV we get. Since you are towing your current fiver with a 250 diesel and moving to a smaller RV, seems you are fine. Final decision would be driven by what your replacement rv is and how much weight is involved.
not smaller, now a 25 footer, might buy a 33-36 footer.

was just wondering if a four point is any good with the front legs not part of the leveling system..
ver
a six point where all legs work toward the leveling.
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Old 11-30-2019, 06:58 AM   #37
packnrat
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That doesn't mean that they should be. Matching truck and trailer is always about the numbers. Look at the sticker inside the door of the truck to see what it's payload capacity is. Figure 20-25% of the GVWR for the trailer as pin weight (do not use the published pin weight for calcs since that number is for an empty trailer without accessories such as AC, batteries, etc). Then figure what else you will load into the truck including people. Add it all up and see how it compares to the truck's payload.

No doubt the truck will pull the trailer but is properly rated for the weight...especially in handling an emergency situation. Make a wise choice and enjoy the trip.

question here is not about tow ability's.
looking to buy a one ton down the rd. just a matter of money. so all that talk is mute.
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Old 11-30-2019, 07:14 AM   #38
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I found that the system will not auto level if it is too far out side to side. Plus if I can get the low side up on something it keeps all wheels on a hard surface and, makes it more stable.
Electric systems have a little shorter stroke. If I could see a deep drop I'd add a block under the low leg(s) and let it do the work. I only had to do that once with one leg as it did go out of stroke. On my 4th system.
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Old 11-30-2019, 08:29 AM   #39
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not smaller, now a 25 footer, might buy a 33-36 footer.

was just wondering if a four point is any good with the front legs not part of the leveling system..
ver
a six point where all legs work toward the leveling.
Although you pull the pin to drop the front legs to assist in unhitching, the front legs are part of the system. They work with the rear legs to have the camper level side to side and front to back.

33'-36' I have had 4 point on 34' Cougar and don't know when they start the 6 point system. I had a 43' HC and it had the 6 point electric due to weight of the unit and weight of the 5er. My Montana is 41' but much heavier and has the 6 point hydraulic. Both systems have pros/cons.
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Old 11-30-2019, 08:30 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by packnrat View Post
not smaller, now a 25 footer, might buy a 33-36 footer.

was just wondering if a four point is any good with the front legs not part of the leveling system..
ver
a six point where all legs work toward the leveling.
The front jacks ARE part of the leveling system. With the electric system you still drop the legs and set the pins as you would with a standard system in order to lift the front to unhook from the truck. Once disconnected and you push the "Auto Level" button the front legs self adjust along with the rear legs until the rig is level. I believe the 331RL has the same 4 leg system that ours has. So far it's working great.
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