Gray water holding

[R&JCovington]

Originally Posted by Weeda

We recently bought a 3120Rl and love it. Problem is the gray water from the island kitchen sink has no where to be held. I have been roving for nearly 50 years and never had this problem. Any ideas? I'm not a fan of letting the water drain on the ground

You should have a separate tank that holds that water. Mine has a separate pull handle near the driver's side wheels for you to close (3 total handles). So there's one gray water tank for the kitchen sink (handle near the wheels) one gray water tank for the shower and bathroom sink, and the dark water. The shower/sink, and the dark water tank handles are together. All the gray water routes into the same discharge so you should be able to close the handle by the wheels and hold your kitchen water.

Hope this helps!

[dlp99]

On my 3120 the drain for the kitchen(2nd grey tank) is right in front of wheel well on outside of frame. It was open on delivery and I also thought it was plumbed direct till I discovered valve.

[Weeda]

That's for sure. The t handle was in front of the stabilizer jack with a black handle and up about 4 inches from the bottom of the sidewall. Poor design

[Bigjake0524]

I didn’t know there was a second drain until our second trip out in our 3950. Dealer never showed me. They only showed me the one in the main convenience center.

Glad you were able to locate the control for it!

[Spmcgll]

Attached picture shows the location of the Galley Grey Water Drain Valve of our 3120RL. We found by accident one day as our dealer did not mention this.

[Rick A]

While on the subject of tank drains, one of the best $20 (or so) investments I ever made was an after market drain shut off blade valve the attaches to your sewer hook up dump. They attach by the same lugs as your sewer hose. By keeping this valve closed until you hook up your sewer hose you avoid that ugly sewer mess you often get when opening your drain cap and getting (****) on! Your sewer hose attaches to the lugs on this valve. Most RV supply stores have them. I have also seen them sometimes in the Ace Hardware RV supply section.

Rick

[twindman]

My older (2013) has the galley drain handle under the rig near the wheels. It actually pokes up at an angle thru the coraplast. These handles have been known to vibrate and unscrew while driving down the road and of course, disappear. If you can't find any handle look for the hole where it should have been. Mine came loose but didn't completely fall off, so I cut a hole in the coraplast to see where it should attach.
In order to stop losing the handle, others have attached a small chain to keep it at least hanging on the bottom of the rig (I think I will do this before taking off this summer).

[camper 47]

Thanks to all who contributed as I am having the same issue. I have not found the second valve but did find a label purporting to tell it should be right by the main dumping drain. It is not there unless they sealed it behind the external body of the rv when this thing was built. I’m not cutting into the body to find out. They make a valve that locks on to the dump drain the same way the hose does. Maybe I’ll go that route.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by Sbchick

Thanks to all who contributed as I am having the same issue. I have not found the second valve but did find a label purporting to tell it should be right by the main dumping drain. It is not there unless they sealed it behind the external body of the rv when this thing was built. I’m not cutting into the body to find out. They make a valve that locks on to the dump drain the same way the hose does. Maybe I’ll go that route.

More than likely the handle has fallen off and that is why you can't find it. But you will have to do something to at least open the valve before your "twist on gate valve" solution will work. It doesn't take much to drop a couple of fasteners from the coroplast and find where you need to connect a new handle.

[camper 47]

Fortunately the valve is in the open position, so the galley tank has been draining. Up to this point I have a bucket and drain hose ready. When I pull cap off, the bucket catches the grey as I quickly put the hose on. Yes, I wear gloves and as my wife says, "Thankfully it is the grey and not the black water." I have looked again and see where the coroplast has a cutout for the handle, but there is no stem or handle behind it that I can see. I have not given up, we are on the road now, so will try again at our next stop.

[twindman]

I would take down a foot or 2 of the coraplast in that area. I isn't too hard to do, but I guess the newer units have them rivoted on so you have to drill a hole and use a self taping bold to re-attach it.

Anyway, with a small gap on the edge of the coraplast, shine a light in and look around for the drain metal rod leading to the edge of the rig. On my rig there is an exterior rod with the handle that screws on to a female thing on the end of another interior rod. Good luck.

[Hblick48]

Originally Posted by Rick A

While on the subject of tank drains, one of the best $20 (or so) investments I ever made was an after market drain shut off blade valve the attaches to your sewer hook up dump. They attach by the same lugs as your sewer hose. By keeping this valve closed until you hook up your sewer hose you avoid that ugly sewer mess you often get when opening your drain cap and getting (****) on! Your sewer hose attaches to the lugs on this valve. Most RV supply stores have them. I have also seen them sometimes in the Ace Hardware RV supply section.

Rick

I did the same, glued it on so it won't come off. In addition to eliminating that "surprise", it can be used for extra grey tank storage. On my rig, galley and shower tanks are the same size (44 gallons). We always fill up shower tank first with plenty of space left in galley tank.

Close the added discharge line valve. Then open both grey tank valves. Grey water equalizes in the tanks, more storage. When it's time to dump, close both grey valves, attach slinkey, open black valve, and then open discharge line valve.

This added valve also allows you to use grey water to rinse black tank. After dumping black tank, close black tank valve and discharge line valve. Open grey valve, wait until line is filled with grey water, then open black valve and grey water migrates into black tank. Close both valves, open black valve and then discharge line valve. If you do it right, black water never enters grey tank.

[Leonard R.]

I have a 2020 3120RL and I have had most of the same problems! Dealer left the galley gate open and I never knew about it until the first time I went to dump my tanks! Yikes! At least it was all grey water.
Thanks to all who mentioned that the kitchen sink empties into one grey tank, while the shower and bathroom sink empty into the other. My shower tank always fills up faster than the galley tank, but I never knew what filled which tank before. My grey tank 2 monitor has never come off of "E", so I will definitely try the equalization tip that you mention.
I also bought an aftermarket knife valve for the end of my discharge tank. Game changer as there is now zero water leakage when I hook up my hoses. A quick note to anyone who reads these exciting posts about waste water tanks (sic); Using this knife valve to flush out the black tank with the grey water tanks works great! I almost never use the black tank flush hose anymore. The sensors never work accurately anyway as it only takes a small piece of toilet paper to give a full reading right after emptying the black tank.
Sorry to ramble, but I have to say this Montana Forum is fantastic! Thanks so much to all the long time RV'ers who give us newbies (less than two years for me) such great advice.
Well done!

[2023331RL]

First off, our unit is a 331RL, 2023 model.

So, my pull was a bit tough to locate because mine had either come apart or was never fully assembled. After locating it with the help of my original sales person, whom had an identical unit on his lot and talking over a phone, he put me right where I needed to go. At first I thought I didn't have the pull but as stated above, mine had not been fully assembled and had pushed back most of the way into the frame. After securing it back where it belongs it works correctly now.

I am thankful though that it was at least stuck in the open position so we didn't have a flood. Only thing was every time after thinking tanks were empty and then capping the main for travel I'd get a wonderful surprise at the next location when I removed the cap...a lot of waste would come uncontrollably out.

Here are a couple photos. Hopefully this will help someone. By the way, the location of this is in front of the drivers side trailer axle, not between the axles as some threads had previously mentioned, directly behind the skirt. I plan to see if I can find a label to put on the skirt so if anyone else goes looking for it they will hopefully find it fast.

-driver side front wheel/axle-



--behind the skirt on the frame--

[Lee-CI]

Originally Posted by StageCoachDriver

Sounds like the original problem is a poor dealer walk thru.

True - but this is the beauty of the MOC forum. Collectively there is more knowledge here than at the dealerships. Maybe the dealers should hire a few of us as consultants - myself excluded!